Potential New 250-V4SW Owner - Page 2

eflyersteve · 08-07-2009, 11:55 AM

ZHEJIANG is what is plastered all over mine to if I remember correctly. Don't quote me one that (well I guess I just do) until I check.

Motors are def different as KD has demonstrated in photo and seat of the pants. The 250T that I have seems to have plenty of power, but I can't compare it to the V4SW like KD can because I've not owned that model. Could be I just got a good one or KD got a bad one or the 250T really is just an inferior motor. It could also be the free flowing exhaust that was installed on mine.

Best of luck to you guys on selling and buying.

Remember - V-Bike has a green one on their showroom floor ready to go (just some shipping damage to the plastic and some slightly rusty hardware). I might have to take that one for a test spin this weekend and see the differences for myself.

KentuckyDonkey · 08-07-2009, 12:22 PM

I'll bet it's the exhaust on yours Steve, that does make the difference- as the V4SW did have a freer-flowing exhaust than the stock 250T exhaust.

I believe the 250T is a "KMD/Shehgzhou"[sp?] manufactured for SunL.

TheRealWorld · 08-07-2009, 12:34 PM

Try listing on craigs list, it works for me, but be careful for scammers. Thanks for the reply, I will do some more research. I can go through your old post and probably find an old picture.

KentuckyDonkey · 08-07-2009, 03:33 PM

Heh...that's how I sold the V4SW- on Craig's List. Ran the ad once and my phone rang off the hook...first guy that came bought it.

Put the 250T on a bunch of times, for less money....and don't even get a call (and it looks very similar- and I took similar pics). I don't get it. It's not like the general public knopws the difference between the two......

Hey, if you end up getting a V4SW, RealWorld, I sure hope that you like it....(But then again, I'm not the only one who has given a very positive review of that model...)

eflyersteve · 08-07-2009, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KentuckyDonkey

I'll bet it's the exhaust on yours Steve, that does make the difference- as the V4SW did have a freer-flowing exhaust than the stock 250T exhaust.

I believe the 250T is a "KMD/Shehgzhou"[sp?] manufactured for SunL.

You're probably right. Hey, it's all Greek to me

I do know that I really need to go up a couple of sizes on the main jet with the exhaust. Any idea what jets will work? It really runs out of gas at 1/2 throttle or more. Holding the choke about half way while driving and it cleans up and runs smooth - just not much power then.

KentuckyDonkey · 08-07-2009, 04:33 PM

Ooopps! It's "Shenzhou". I was close!

Dunno about the jet- but I'll tell ya, it's been my experience that EVERY carb that comes on a new Chinese bike needs to be taken apart, cleaned out and adjusted for proper performance.

If yours works good with the choke half closed, I'd be willing to bet the above wouild solve it- a good cleaning....adjusting the float; reset the mixture screw...and make sure the carb to intake tube, and intake tube to engine bolts are tight (you'd be surprised, I'd bet one of yours is loose right now).

That will likely solve your problem.

For much more robust performance, I'd upgrade to a 30mm carb. (I believe it's a 27 on there right now). The 30 will bolt right up and they can be had for $40 or less.

Hey...if ya test-ride that V4SW down at Tim's, let us know if there's stil;l a big difference between the T with ther better exhaust and the stock V4SW.

Oh, and iof ya buy it, make sure to get a GOOD discount- if you're picking it up, you're saving him at least $250 in shipping charges, plus you should get extry off for the damamge. Might make for a really good deal! (He's had that one leftover for ages!)

Weldangrind · 08-07-2009, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eflyersteve

I do know that I really need to go up a couple of sizes on the main jet with the exhaust. Any idea what jets will work? It really runs out of gas at 1/2 throttle or more. Holding the choke about half way while driving and it cleans up and runs smooth - just not much power then.

Before changing jets, try raising the needle (dropping the clip). Make sure that your current combo can't feed that hungry exhaust before buying jets or carbs. Once you swap to a free-flowing air filter, it might be time to try new jets.

eflyersteve · 08-07-2009, 09:50 PM

I've already raised the needle. I was happy to see that it actually had grooves. I admit that I only went down one groove though, there is another. I also have the mixture screw out about 3 1/2 turns which gives it best throttle response. I'm just afraid that it's too lean.

The fuel starvation happens at about 1/4-1/3 throttle regardless of load. Just thumbing it up past 1/4 sitting and it starts to stutter and pop. I've searched for info on adjusting the float but didn't find anything. I assume I just need to bend it up a little so that it fills more before floating?

I've checked the bolts and everything is tight - no air leaks that I can see.

Thanks again guys!

TheRealWorld · 08-07-2009, 10:28 PM

I would move the clip all the way to the bottom and close the needle to 3 turns and back it closed until you have a smooth idle. If your carb is clean and you are not sucking air, it should run quite well.

TheRealWorld · 08-07-2009, 10:30 PM

Make sure you have good gas!

Weldangrind · 08-07-2009, 11:13 PM

Remember that the air / fuel screw is only for the idle circuit and the transition from idle to main. Once you open the throttle, the air / fuel screw has little impact.

Drop the clip to the bottom position, turn the air / fuel screw all the way in and then back it out 1.5 turns as a baseline.

Float adjustment is accomplished by removing the carb, removing the bowl from the carb and then turning the carb upside down. Once upside down, the float should sit level; bend / adjust as necessary.

Have you replaced the plug with an NGK?

eflyersteve · 08-07-2009, 11:15 PM

Good gas for sure. I will move it down to the lowest setting (needle highest) and readjust mixture. I've got a cone filter to install too so I'm pretty sure I'll need to eventually re-jet. I'll look at the 30mm carb option soon.

Thanks!

Weldangrind · 08-07-2009, 11:19 PM

When you swap the cone filter on, don't forget to oil it. I use Maxima blue filter spray (he said, like a broken record).

KentuckyDonkey · 08-07-2009, 11:47 PM

The float is your problem- adjust it as said above, and disassemble and clean out all the passages...and you should be good to go. )Believe me, they'll likely be something in there!)

When you have the carb off and apart, you can check the action of the float by attaching a piece of ruel hose to the fuel intake nipple and while holding the carb in it's normal, level position, with the bottom half of the bowl off, blow into the hose, and slowly push the float up with your finger. The flow of air (which represents fuel) should turn off when the float is almost all the way to the top. If it is shutting off earlier, bend the tab on the back of the float till it works properly.

And if you haven't already, put a fuel filter inline between the gas tank and the carb when you reinstall the carb. I think it'll work fine without rejetting.

Then if you want more performance, consider the 30mm carb (Someone on here did that...and was very happy with it)

TheRealWorld · 08-08-2009, 12:33 AM

One more thing, Carefully remove the bowel from the fuel valve and see if it has a bubble of water or other junk in it. This can cause the fuel to not pass through the valve at a normal speed.

This can also be tested if you can open the screw that is meant to drain the fuel that is in the main float bowel. If it flows freely, it is fine to that point.

08-07-2009, 11:13 PM	#26
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Remember that the air / fuel screw is only for the idle circuit and the transition from idle to main. Once you open the throttle, the air / fuel screw has little impact. Drop the clip to the bottom position, turn the air / fuel screw all the way in and then back it out 1.5 turns as a baseline. Float adjustment is accomplished by removing the carb, removing the bowl from the carb and then turning the carb upside down. Once upside down, the float should sit level; bend / adjust as necessary. Have you replaced the plug with an NGK? __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

08-07-2009, 11:19 PM	#28
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	When you swap the cone filter on, don't forget to oil it. I use Maxima blue filter spray (he said, like a broken record). __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

08-07-2009, 11:55 AM	#16
eflyersteve Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 44	ZHEJIANG is what is plastered all over mine to if I remember correctly. Don't quote me one that (well I guess I just do) until I check. Motors are def different as KD has demonstrated in photo and seat of the pants. The 250T that I have seems to have plenty of power, but I can't compare it to the V4SW like KD can because I've not owned that model. Could be I just got a good one or KD got a bad one or the 250T really is just an inferior motor. It could also be the free flowing exhaust that was installed on mine. Best of luck to you guys on selling and buying. Remember - V-Bike has a green one on their showroom floor ready to go (just some shipping damage to the plastic and some slightly rusty hardware). I might have to take that one for a test spin this weekend and see the differences for myself.
	0

08-07-2009, 12:22 PM	#17
KentuckyDonkey Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 331	I'll bet it's the exhaust on yours Steve, that does make the difference- as the V4SW did have a freer-flowing exhaust than the stock 250T exhaust. I believe the 250T is a "KMD/Shehgzhou"[sp?] manufactured for SunL.
	0

08-07-2009, 12:34 PM	#18
TheRealWorld Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 817	Try listing on craigs list, it works for me, but be careful for scammers. Thanks for the reply, I will do some more research. I can go through your old post and probably find an old picture.
	0

08-07-2009, 03:33 PM	#19
KentuckyDonkey Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 331	Heh...that's how I sold the V4SW- on Craig's List. Ran the ad once and my phone rang off the hook...first guy that came bought it. Put the 250T on a bunch of times, for less money....and don't even get a call (and it looks very similar- and I took similar pics). I don't get it. It's not like the general public knopws the difference between the two...... Hey, if you end up getting a V4SW, RealWorld, I sure hope that you like it....(But then again, I'm not the only one who has given a very positive review of that model...)
	0

08-07-2009, 04:33 PM	#21
KentuckyDonkey Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 331	Ooopps! It's "Shenzhou". I was close! Dunno about the jet- but I'll tell ya, it's been my experience that EVERY carb that comes on a new Chinese bike needs to be taken apart, cleaned out and adjusted for proper performance. If yours works good with the choke half closed, I'd be willing to bet the above wouild solve it- a good cleaning....adjusting the float; reset the mixture screw...and make sure the carb to intake tube, and intake tube to engine bolts are tight (you'd be surprised, I'd bet one of yours is loose right now). That will likely solve your problem. For much more robust performance, I'd upgrade to a 30mm carb. (I believe it's a 27 on there right now). The 30 will bolt right up and they can be had for $40 or less. Hey...if ya test-ride that V4SW down at Tim's, let us know if there's stil;l a big difference between the T with ther better exhaust and the stock V4SW. Oh, and iof ya buy it, make sure to get a GOOD discount- if you're picking it up, you're saving him at least $250 in shipping charges, plus you should get extry off for the damamge. Might make for a really good deal! (He's had that one leftover for ages!)
	0

08-07-2009, 09:50 PM	#23
eflyersteve Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 44	I've already raised the needle. I was happy to see that it actually had grooves. I admit that I only went down one groove though, there is another. I also have the mixture screw out about 3 1/2 turns which gives it best throttle response. I'm just afraid that it's too lean. The fuel starvation happens at about 1/4-1/3 throttle regardless of load. Just thumbing it up past 1/4 sitting and it starts to stutter and pop. I've searched for info on adjusting the float but didn't find anything. I assume I just need to bend it up a little so that it fills more before floating? I've checked the bolts and everything is tight - no air leaks that I can see. Thanks again guys!
	0

08-07-2009, 10:28 PM	#24
TheRealWorld Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 817	I would move the clip all the way to the bottom and close the needle to 3 turns and back it closed until you have a smooth idle. If your carb is clean and you are not sucking air, it should run quite well.
	0

08-07-2009, 10:30 PM	#25
TheRealWorld Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 817	Make sure you have good gas!
	0

08-07-2009, 11:15 PM	#27
eflyersteve Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 44	Good gas for sure. I will move it down to the lowest setting (needle highest) and readjust mixture. I've got a cone filter to install too so I'm pretty sure I'll need to eventually re-jet. I'll look at the 30mm carb option soon. Thanks!
	0

08-07-2009, 11:47 PM	#29
KentuckyDonkey Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 331	The float is your problem- adjust it as said above, and disassemble and clean out all the passages...and you should be good to go. )Believe me, they'll likely be something in there!) When you have the carb off and apart, you can check the action of the float by attaching a piece of ruel hose to the fuel intake nipple and while holding the carb in it's normal, level position, with the bottom half of the bowl off, blow into the hose, and slowly push the float up with your finger. The flow of air (which represents fuel) should turn off when the float is almost all the way to the top. If it is shutting off earlier, bend the tab on the back of the float till it works properly. And if you haven't already, put a fuel filter inline between the gas tank and the carb when you reinstall the carb. I think it'll work fine without rejetting. Then if you want more performance, consider the 30mm carb (Someone on here did that...and was very happy with it)
	0

08-08-2009, 12:33 AM	#30
TheRealWorld Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 817	One more thing, Carefully remove the bowel from the fuel valve and see if it has a bubble of water or other junk in it. This can cause the fuel to not pass through the valve at a normal speed. This can also be tested if you can open the screw that is meant to drain the fuel that is in the main float bowel. If it flows freely, it is fine to that point.
	0