Matty`s Pocket Rocket Mito

[Oddball Matt]

So three hundred-ish all told, tempting as there isn't many things I hate more in tinkering that F-ing around with carbs and especially burning hatred toward jetting. Would definitely knock this over into a multi-year budget schedule, though it'll most likely be just that anyway...

[bogieboy]

Originally Posted by Oddball Matt

I'm listening. That would include some of the electeics too I'd need to purchase anyway but quick glossing over didn't find my any prices, any idea how much for a kit? Got a buddy in Montvale VI I could probly bounce it off if they won't send.

everything i am seeing, the one Jerry posted is possibly the one that ecotrons is importing, as it looks pretty much identical, and the pricing of the ecotrons one used to be around $600 or so, not too sure what they run now...

[Oddball Matt]

Be paying cuatoms and VAT on it anyway so might as well order straight from china

[2LZ]

I like the blower idea.

[Oddball Matt]

Bike mostly loaded into the car, still missing fairings as they'll go in last after I catch my son and get him to give me his bicycle that's going in next.



First order of business when I get in my own lair tomorrow right after getting everything in is adding lightness to this behemot. It's essentially just a headlight/gauge cluster bracket and the fairing stay for the mask part, cannot really understand why is it A) cast B) so damn thick. I reckon I can chop a fair bit of weight off that thing by drilling it full of speed holes.

[Oddball Matt]

Tank hinge bracket was broken and needed some mending. Not my finest work but it'll do the job.



Tried to figure out why the peckock only flows freely for a while then is reduced to a dribble, even if the tank cap is open. Couldn't find anything faulty or clogged so the hunt continues on that one.



Also started adding lightness to the headlight scoop but ran out of battery for the drill (and needed to go put the rascal to bed anyway)

[Oddball Matt]

Long time no progress as during the summer I ran into a spot of bother financially and had to unload stuff I didn`t want to lose like my lifting table and my MIG rig which will make some parts of this project a bit harder (and then again hopefully will finally push me into learning how to TIG since I already have the machine I just don`t know how LOL)

Anyway, as I posted in the recent purchase thread I came across a full kit and then some of Ducati Supersport fairings this one bloke was trying to unload with little success on a Finnish biker forum. As soon as I spotted the ad (still wondering how I missed it before) I PM:d him and took off to Helsinki as soon as I could to go get them.

(queue a day of intense tinkering)





Looks like Cagiva and Ducati are pretty damn close in design as this task turned out MUCH easier than I thought. The fairing stay holes were a bit further apart and slightly wider, that was easily sorted with a round file and a fistful of washers.





Although using only two of the three available mounting points the gauge cluster was a DIRECT bolt-on job. The third mounting point also exists in the cluster it`s just capped off, five minute job to drill and glue a threaded bushing in there.





Two of these were the ONLY brackets I had to fabricate from scratch. They`re pretty rough and probly will be redone later but will do fine for the proto-phase of the build.









Job jobbed, onto the tail.

[Oddball Matt]

Gentlemen, we have an engine. Or at least there should be one somewhere inside that heap of mud LOL. Slight change of plans, this thing isn't getting a china heart after all nor the coveted KTM Duke lump I would have wanted, but instead opted for the known-to-be-reliable 2004-2006 CBR125R engine instead. Why you might ask? Two things. This was a 15min drive from our house, and the whole thing, loom rad and carb included, cost me 60eur. Just need to dig it out from that mudball first!

[bogieboy]

Dang now thats a score.... out here in New York that motor woyld likely go for $6-700 without the extras...

[Oddball Matt]

Ayup, been a second, who`d a thunk Christmas time in the post office would be busy... Anyway been chipping away at this every second I can which still doesn`t amount to a whole lot, anyway...



I managed to clean most of the crud off the outside so I could actually see what I`m dealing with, took off all the hoses and whatnot, removed the valve cover to discover this engine not only has screw tappets but both were actually 100% in spec. I then moved on to remove the clutch cover so I can replace the shift selector shaft as this engine has last been fitted into a three wheeler Amica moped-car and the solution they deemed the best for fitting the shifter linkage was to weld a flat bar at the end of the shaft so I had to cut it off with an angle grinder. A new shaft, as well as a socket for the clutch center lock nut, a used gear sensor, sprocket cover and a spark coil has already been ordered and received from a local bike boneyard. Just need to find the time and energy to swap out the shift shaft (already opened the casing and broke the clutch nut loose) and to clean up the garage enough to be able to make a full turn without hitting anything, oh and procure a bottle of argon and learn how to use my TIG rig, to be able to start designing and fabricating the engine mounts. So... see you sometime in March lol



Oh, forgot I also took out the super manky starter motor thinking bah a new one will be a twenty or sth, twenty my a** try two hundred! So gonna be refurbing that at some point as well.

[cheesy]

Originally Posted by Oddball Matt

and to clean up the garage enough to be able to make a full turn without hitting anything, oh and procure a bottle of argon and learn how to use my TIG rig, to be able to start designing and fabricating the engine mounts. So... see you sometime in March lol

The garage mess is the bane of all tinkerers. I've gotten better at it but I still haven't swept up the rust from the Jeep yet. Maybe tomorrow. You'll like TIG welding. It's easy to control the puddle, foot or finger controls help with the heat, it's quiet, and it's clean.

[Oddball Matt]

Yea been through a bit of a rough spot over the past months, as mentioned lost my MIG rig as well as the bike lifter so I got two bikes side by side in the garage ATM covered by tarps because I also moved my office/mancave from the downstairs room to the garage so my older boy could get his own room eventually (got two special needs boys), not to mention pulling 10-11h days back to back so haven`t had much energy to clean up the shed which has totally exploded. Thankfully Chrissy`s over so the coming months should be a bit easier at work for a couple months til the summer season starts (everyone`s remote working from their summer cabins because COVID so my stops triple)

Losing my MIG rig hurt as that was the flagship of the 220v Kemppi range, the MinarcMIG200 EVO. I still don`t know how to weld but that machine could, you only put in what you`re welding and how thick it is and the machine doeas all the calculations for you. The TIG rig I have is an entry level one with minimal settings and a thumb trigger I bought on a whim, as said onl tried it a couple times with a disposable single use bottle and that didn`t end well so got a bit of a learning curve ahead of me.

[Oddball Matt]

Was going to just stare vacantly at youtube tonight but them hands just cannot sit still and I've heard spanking the monkey too much can be hazardous as well so somehow the starter motor snuck it's way to the side table. At first I tried to get that top nut open but even after soaking in Kent Rusty Penetrant for the past three days the bstard refuses to budge. Gotta buy a new 10mm wrench tomorrow and grind the oldest one thin enough to get to that lower nut as no pliers are able to hold it sufficiently it seems.



Let's see if this stuff does anything... The instructions said to let it soak for one to five minutes, did bugger all so let it first soak for fifteen three times with vigorous scrubbing while rinsing, then drying and sanding the exposed rust layer open so the acid can do it's thing, and lastly a 45min soak with periodically re-applification so the stuff won't dry up like the instructions warned not to let happen.



I'd say that's passable. Not the snake-oil the bottle promised but apparently can be made to work (eventually).

[Oddball Matt]

New brushes arrived today so wrestled those in, was a bit of a fight as there are no locking pin holes or anything to keep the brushes back when you push the commutator in between but managed after a few tries, none of the springs didn`t even fly off once so that`s a win. Decided to grease the far end brass bearing with Wurth high temp grease so that I first heated the endcup as hot as my hand can manage then dropped in the dollop and applied pressure with the rotor axel so as to saturate the brass bushing or so I was told to do, not sure if it did a thing but seems to be turning fine now.



And that`s what almost 200 saved euros look like, wasn`t really broken just needed some long overdue TLC.

[Oddball Matt]

Burnout is a biatch, spent several months with zero motivation to do any projects whatsoever but now that the spring sun is starting to light up the scene (the irony here is when I`m writing this there`s a blizzard howling outside LOL) I`ve slowly started to gravitate towards building stuff again. Just swapped out the mangled gear selector shaft and put the selector mechanism back together. Since the clutch was already open I decided to measure everything and to my surprise found it to be in 100% factory spec, like two plain discs had negligible warp but ALL mass plates were like new, zero wear whatsoever. The only thing out of whack was the springs had sagged out of service limit so I already ordered a set of EBC Racing springs that are supposed to be 10% stiffer than OEM for a ground shattering price of 20.40eur shipping included. When those arrive gotta draw and cut a new clutch cover gasket cus I ain`t gonna buy one if I have perfectly good gasket paper at home.