07-14-2015, 03:12 AM | #16 |
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Idaho
Posts: 25,054
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The engineers set the valve lash specifications for the engine to make the most power, and run most efficiently. If you set the valves too loose, you will lose some power. Having said that, it is better for the valve lash to be too loose, rather than too tight.
Everyone has a different technique for closing in on the correct valve lash. After you set the valve lash, it's important to measure it in the correct manner. Keeping the feeler gauge as straight (unbent) as possible, you want to note a slight drag on the gauge as you draw it under the tappet.
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Spud "Never argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level, and beat you with experience." Mark Twain 2015 Zongshen ZS250GY-3 (RX3) 2006 Zongshen ZS200GY-2 (Sierra 200) 2005 Honda XR650L 2004 Honda CRF250X 1998 Kawasaki KDX220 Mods made to my Zongshen ZS200GY-2: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=6894 |
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07-14-2015, 05:24 AM | #17 | |
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: England
Posts: 382
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Quote:
I remember thinking at the time , well how sharp is the knife and how warm is the butter. Having the gap a bit too slack is less about how much the valve will open and more about valve timing. The valve will open later and shut earlier. Also there is a hammering effect that can increase strain and wear on the valve train components. But these are minor details compared with having the lash too tight. rj, get yourself a set of metric feeler gauges, trust me it will be fine, the world of metric is sweet How I did mine ------------------ Making sure the blade of the 0.06mm feeler gauge is fully under the rocker arm tip, adjust until you can feel a good constant resistance when you pull it out. if it snags, sticks or leaves a grove in your gauge as you pull it out then its too tight. Once done Check the gap with the 0.04mm blade, it should slide in very easily, so you now know your not too tight. Then check the gap with the 0.08mm blade, you shouldn't be able to get it in at all. End result ------------ You now know for sure that the gap is larger than 0.04mm but smaller than 0.08mm but more likely to be spot on 0.06mm. This I'm happy with. *disclaimer* My memory is known to be unreliable ! Last edited by katflap; 07-14-2015 at 08:03 AM. |
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07-14-2015, 09:19 AM | #18 |
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Idaho
Posts: 25,054
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As usual, that is a superb explanation, Kat. Using the 0.04 mm as a 'go gauge,' and the 0.08 mm as a 'no-go gauge,' is excellent advice.
X2 on using the metric feeler gauges. I wish the United States had converted to the metric system in the 1970s, when Canada made the switch. You can find an excellent set of feeler gauges marked with SAE/metric sizes at Harbor Freight. http://www.harborfreight.com/32-piec...uge-32214.html
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Spud "Never argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level, and beat you with experience." Mark Twain 2015 Zongshen ZS250GY-3 (RX3) 2006 Zongshen ZS200GY-2 (Sierra 200) 2005 Honda XR650L 2004 Honda CRF250X 1998 Kawasaki KDX220 Mods made to my Zongshen ZS200GY-2: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=6894 |
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07-14-2015, 01:33 PM | #19 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Warshington
Posts: 928
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thanks for the great replies fellows. Now I got it, rj
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07-14-2015, 07:32 PM | #20 |
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Arvada, CO
Posts: 1,004
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Yes, thank you everyone! I intend to follow kat's procedure for upper and lower limits when I hit 500 miles.
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Red 5 standing by! 2015 CSC red RX3 with 19" front wheel, Shinko 804/805, skid plate, tall seat, 13T/45T sprockets, progressive shock, Winyoochanok windshield, GENSSI LED headlight, SW-Motech tankbag, Shorai Lithium battery 2014 Ural Patrol |
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07-14-2015, 08:07 PM | #21 |
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: central PA
Posts: 770
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feeler gauge
Kat you have explained it perfectly,,,Bravo!!!
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2015 zongshen rx3,,(Sold),,,2016 bashan storm,,2005 Harley ultra classic. |
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08-04-2015, 08:34 PM | #22 |
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Arvada, CO
Posts: 1,004
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I adjusted my valves yesterday and I wanted to say for everyone's great advice. Here are a few notes from my experience.
Removing the body panels was pretty easy. Except for the radiator to fairing bolts, they're all easy to access from outside the bike. Removing the tank was a bit more complicated because of the fuel lines. Here are my suggestions:
Note: The plugs I used came from my vacuum line kit that I use for bleeding the brakes.
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Red 5 standing by! 2015 CSC red RX3 with 19" front wheel, Shinko 804/805, skid plate, tall seat, 13T/45T sprockets, progressive shock, Winyoochanok windshield, GENSSI LED headlight, SW-Motech tankbag, Shorai Lithium battery 2014 Ural Patrol |
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08-04-2015, 08:49 PM | #23 |
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Arvada, CO
Posts: 1,004
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A few notes on bolts. The seat bolts are nearly identical to the radiator bolts, except the seat bolts are shorter. To avoid losing or confusing them, I suggest screwing the seat bolts back into their holes after you remove the seat.
And speaking of radiator bolts, the upper bolt on the left radiator was a real beyotch to remove because the radiator hose is directly in front of it. My suggestions:
In this pic, you can see the upper radiator bolt taunting me from behind the hose, laughing in my face! You can also see the bracket where the rectifier was removed.
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Red 5 standing by! 2015 CSC red RX3 with 19" front wheel, Shinko 804/805, skid plate, tall seat, 13T/45T sprockets, progressive shock, Winyoochanok windshield, GENSSI LED headlight, SW-Motech tankbag, Shorai Lithium battery 2014 Ural Patrol Last edited by detours; 08-04-2015 at 09:16 PM. Reason: typo |
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08-04-2015, 09:08 PM | #24 |
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Arvada, CO
Posts: 1,004
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I also had some trouble finding TDC (top dead center). So I took a pic to help everyone know what to look for. My suggestions:
Here is a picture of the TDC line. It is clearly marked with a T and a thick line. Don't be confused by other small machining marks ... only use this one.
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Red 5 standing by! 2015 CSC red RX3 with 19" front wheel, Shinko 804/805, skid plate, tall seat, 13T/45T sprockets, progressive shock, Winyoochanok windshield, GENSSI LED headlight, SW-Motech tankbag, Shorai Lithium battery 2014 Ural Patrol Last edited by detours; 08-04-2015 at 09:38 PM. Reason: clarity |
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08-04-2015, 09:34 PM | #25 |
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Arvada, CO
Posts: 1,004
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Adjusting the exhaust valves just about killed me. I had bought a set of valve tappet wrenches, but they didn't work. The socket wall was too thick to fit the openings, so I grabbed an 8mm combo wrench.
The locknut was so tight on the exhaust valves that I actually broke the open end of my 8mm wrench! Luckily, the piece fell on the floor instead of into the engine! Also, luckily, I was barely able to get my socket set in there to break the locknut loose. To turn the screw on the exhaust valves, I linked up all my socket extensions to reach all the way up through the frame and used a bit driver on top with a bit holder on the bottom. This was much easier than trying to fit two hands in that tiny area to measure the gap, adjust it and lock it down. My feeler gauge almost didn't work for me. I should have bought one that had .04 mm to .08 mm gauges, but mine only went to .055 mm. Still it's under .06mm so I figured it was good enough. After lots of trial and error, I was able to set the valves to .055, lock them down with the closed end of my broken combo wrench and check my work. Whew! The intake valves were much easier.
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Red 5 standing by! 2015 CSC red RX3 with 19" front wheel, Shinko 804/805, skid plate, tall seat, 13T/45T sprockets, progressive shock, Winyoochanok windshield, GENSSI LED headlight, SW-Motech tankbag, Shorai Lithium battery 2014 Ural Patrol |
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08-04-2015, 10:09 PM | #26 |
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 267
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Unless it's already been done, maybe we could start a thread on removing stubborn nuts and bolts. Seems we're getting way more of these than normal.
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George 2016 CanAm Spyder F3-L |
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08-04-2015, 11:08 PM | #27 |
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Deerfield Beach FL
Posts: 1,410
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A small impact driver will remove any stubborn nut or bolt no problem at all and zero damage. Harbor Freight has a cheap one. You will also need the right set of extensions and wobblers to reach the bolt. The impact driver will also drive and remove screws with never a stripped screw head again.
http://www.harborfreight.com/18-volt...ver-62421.html This is what I have and I love it. Huge time saver and lifesaver. https://bigskytool.com/cordless-tool...nditioned.html You will also need something like this so you can use your existing sockets with your 1/4 impact driver. http://www.amazon.com/YSTD%C2%AE-Soc...Socket+Adapter Says they are DeWalt but likely fake. / |
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08-04-2015, 11:20 PM | #28 |
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Deerfield Beach FL
Posts: 1,410
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08-05-2015, 12:10 AM | #29 |
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 366
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Oh good grief.
Thanks for posting your experience. Looks like I might need to go buy more tools... Also I have a feeling the valve adjustment process is going to result in a lot of testing of my patience. |
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08-05-2015, 12:25 AM | #30 |
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Arvada, CO
Posts: 1,004
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It may try your patience, but it is absolutely doable. The CSC valve tutorial is very good and with the tips in this thread, you'll do fine. Especially if your hands are smaller than mine. And if you have the right tools.
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Red 5 standing by! 2015 CSC red RX3 with 19" front wheel, Shinko 804/805, skid plate, tall seat, 13T/45T sprockets, progressive shock, Winyoochanok windshield, GENSSI LED headlight, SW-Motech tankbag, Shorai Lithium battery 2014 Ural Patrol |
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