Is this fixable?

[FLASHLIGHTBOY]

Your swingarm bushings are worn out someone put that style of bushing in there... but they screwed up with the ready rod.. they should use a grade 8 bolt... the threads chewed out the bustings... you can use that plastic that they make the puck board tuff from.... I forget the real name... or buy the bushing from many places online or ebay... many people put a REAL BEARING IN THERE... I DON.T KNOW IF you can access my post of the bushings I make up..... the real thing is get rid of the threaded rod... it wiil chew up your fix..

[FLASHLIGHTBOY]

do a search at the top of the page to search my post for ...plastic bushing... you will see that I use this plastic rod stuff... very durable... will last ... just cut it to fit.... you can get different sizes... search in your area for a place that handles plastic rods and other material... they usually have pieces around so you don not have to buy a length.. about $10.00 a foot... But use a shoulder bolt for the fix.. use lock bolts.. keep it tight..

[Bruce's]

Delrin is a good plastic for bushings .

[turbofiat124]

Originally Posted by FLASHLIGHTBOY

Your swingarm bushings are worn out someone put that style of bushing in there... but they screwed up with the ready rod.. they should use a grade 8 bolt... the threads chewed out the bustings... you can use that plastic that they make the puck board tuff from.... I forget the real name... or buy the bushing from many places online or ebay... many people put a REAL BEARING IN THERE... I DON.T KNOW IF you can access my post of the bushings I make up..... the real thing is get rid of the threaded rod... it wiil chew up your fix..

Well the threaded rod was my doing. I couldn't find a 1/2" X 10" or 12" long bolt at Tractor Supply so I used the all-thread instead. I didn't think about it chewing up the bearing.

If Fastenal doesn't have this bolt, I'm going to use a piece of NON threaded rod and drill holes in it for cotter pins.

The bearings arrived today so hopefully this weekend, I'm going to put it back together and see what happens.

[Darth Racer]

At least cover the thread rod with some PVC pipe. Might be hard to find a bolt with that much of a shoulder. The exact hardware would be best if you can find it.

[david3921]

While looking for sprockets I found a few sites that might have the stuff you need or at least be able to see what they look like so you can get them locally.

Here's a swing arm bolt for a Taotao.

https://taotaopartsdirect.myshopify....swing-arm-bolt

Another one;

https://www.eagleatvparts.com/produc...ducts_id=93243

..and another

http://www.kazumausaonline.com/m12-a...s-p-14567.html

Axle nuts and spacers;

https://www.eagleatvparts.com/index....sort=2a&page=1

Bearings

https://www.eagleatvparts.com/index.php?cPath=25

Axles

https://www.eagleatvparts.com/index....sort=2a&page=3


The Eagle site also has body parts in case you are missing any.

(thanks again to Speckred17 for finding the Eagle site)

[turbofiat124]

Thanks for the info. I went ahead and ordered the M12 bolt. I'm assuming Tao Tao made this ATV? That was another issue trying to figure out who made it while looking for parts.

I measured the diameter of the bolt that broke and couldn't tell if it was closer to 12mm or 13mm. Since the ID of the bearings are 13mm, a 12mm would go through the bearings easier than a 1/2" bolt which is closer to 13mm.

So I think I'll go that route instead.

[Bruce's]

That is just going to lead to problems .The bolt should match the bearings and bushings properly ,or it is always just going to be pounding away on them ruining them in short order .

[turbofiat124]

Originally Posted by Bruce's

That is just going to lead to problems .The bolt should match the bearings and bushings properly ,or it is always just going to be pounding away on them ruining them in short order .

Well depending upon the accuracy of my digital caliper, the ID of the bearings is around 12.7mm so I'd find it hard for a true 13mm bolt to fit into them.

Of course there are always tolerances.

Unless maybe I stick it in a freezer to shrink the bolt and heat the bearings up a bit with a hair dryer. That's how we do stuff where I work at on equipment.

[Darth Racer]

Chuck it in a drill and sand it down a little with some plumbers tape if it dont fit.

[david3921]

Originally Posted by turbofiat124

Thanks for the info. I went ahead and ordered the M12 bolt. I'm assuming Tao Tao made this ATV? That was another issue trying to figure out who made it while looking for parts.

I measured the diameter of the bolt that broke and couldn't tell if it was closer to 12mm or 13mm. Since the ID of the bearings are 13mm, a 12mm would go through the bearings easier than a 1/2" bolt which is closer to 13mm.

So I think I'll go that route instead.

The bolt I found that you ordered is for a Tao Tao ATA110D. The few pictures you've posted and the body pictures in your painting thread lead me to believe that's what you have only under another name. Look for a plate on the front of the frame. If it's there, it will have the model number, year, and other info. Post more pictures if the plate or other model information is missing.

[turbofiat124]

Originally Posted by david3921

The bolt I found that you ordered is for a Tao Tao ATA110D. The few pictures you've posted and the body pictures in your painting thread lead me to believe that's what you have only under another name. Look for a plate on the front of the frame. If it's there, it will have the model number, year, and other info. Post more pictures if the plate or other model information is missing.

OK here's some more photos with the body removed:







I got the bearings installed in the frame and got in the bolt installed. Now for some reason I noticed the chain is rubbing the frame. And when I installed it, the chain was tighter.

Looks as if the replacement shock could be longer but it's 300mm jacking the rear end up a bit, but it's the same length as the original one that broke.





I did notice if I sit on the bike, the chain slackens so it maybe OK with someone riding it but I don't like the idea of the chain even touching the frame when bouncing around. How can I fix this? Tighten up the tension on the rear shock? Loosen the chain? Check the length of the replacement shock to see if it matches the one that broke?

Got a new rear light installed, fixed a few things, got the body repainted and partially installed.



By the way, I changed the oil and carefully added 500 ml and checked the level. I think after all was said and done I added 600 ml of 10W40 oil which is at the top of the dipstick mark. I read somewhere the correct level was 800 ml. So that sounds like quite a difference.

I read there were two bolts at the bottom of the crankcase and if you removed the wrong one a spring would pop out. So I removed the 17mm head bolt and just oiled drained out.

Also the right hand foot rest is blocking the dipstick and is very hard to remove. Who decided NOT to put an access hole in the foot rest, I don't know. So I'm going to cut one to access the dipstick.

[Bruce's]

You can try mounting a piece of plastic on the swing arm to keep the chain from rubbing ,many bikes come with them ,I just am having a brain fart trying to remember what they would be called other than a chain guide .

[turbofiat124]

Originally Posted by Bruce's

You can try mounting a piece of plastic on the swing arm to keep the chain from rubbing ,many bikes come with them ,I just am having a brain fart trying to remember what they would be called other than a chain guide .

I did make a chain guide for my small pit bike. Mainly to keep the chain from flying off when I'd hit a bump. But I'm not sure how to make one for this ATV.

I found a piece of teflon abou 5" long and cut a notch out to make it into an L-shape so to speak and mounted it to a piece of metal and bolted it to the where one of the flares was bolted to the chain guard.

You can barely see it in this video at 14 seconds.

[Bruce's]

Google motorcycle chain slide ,there are different styles it should be fairly easy to figure out one that works for you .