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Old 11-29-2022, 07:15 AM   #16
Thumper   Thumper is online now
 
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It would be highly unusual if it were sent jetted rich. There could be a float bowl/inlet valve issue. You probably got a #40 pilot jet, and #120 main jet. These are probably OK at higher elevations. If you are below 1000 feet, those are on the lean side.

Red hot pipe is more likely to be a sign of lean jetting. Rejetting this carb is covered in the 2022 1/2 Templar X thread in this video and pics section.

Opening up the carb is on the post #7, and details are also on post #25.

I posted detailed needle shim instruction somewhere here. I need to track it down and add that to the 2022 1/2 thread. Ah, I found it. See the next post...



Last edited by Thumper; 11-29-2022 at 08:08 AM.
 
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Old 11-29-2022, 08:07 AM   #17
Thumper   Thumper is online now
 
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Needle shim instructions

The taper on the jet needle determines just how much fuel is allowed up into the venturi area from the float bowl as the slide is lifter (throttle twist). Some needles have a clip and maybe 5 positions to select from. But even if your needle doesn't have this adjustment, you can shim it with washers without changing the position of the clip. That lifts the needle too. I remember learning how to do this on Suzuki CV carbs. The concept is the same, but much easier with just one carb!

It's tight but doable without removing the exhaust on the Templar X. While you are in there, you may also want to bump main jet by one step, and I've also bumped the pilot by one step (still need brief choke to start in cold weather, but not in Summer)

Here's how to shim the needle:
You can loosen the clamps on both sides of the carb, twist the carb top to the right, unscrew the slide cap, and pull the slide out over the head pipe.

Remove the cable from the slide by making slack so the clamped button on the end of the cable can come out via the slot on the side of the slide. You need to compress the large return spring to make slack in the cable. Careful not to lose control of the spring, and keep it clean.

Now that you have the slide out and disconnected from the carb, reach in with hemostat or long skinny pliers to pinch and remove the clip down in the bottom of the slide. Push the needle up/out of the slide. Slide a tiny washer (1mm or so) onto the needle and reinstall the needle. You have now shimmed the needle.

Reinstall the needle clip to hold the needle in the slide. The needle clip/clamp that holds the needle down won't seem to fit all the way down, but that's OK... It will be held down by the large spring-no problem

Reinstall the cable (don't forget to make sure the large spring is between the slide cap and slide barrel. Now you see the large spring holding down the needle clip at the bottom of the slide, even though the clip didn't seem to fit. It's going nowhere, and the needle will stay planted!

Put the slide back into the carb. The slot on the side of the slide must align with the guide post in the inside of slide tower (only one way in!).
Screw the cap back on and straighten the carb back in place, tighten the clamps. Done.


 
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Old 11-29-2022, 09:26 PM   #18
gtrmaster88   gtrmaster88 is offline
 
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Hap, Thumper, thank you all so much. I will definitely dig into this carb with my more mechanically-inclined buddy, hopefully this weekend when he's off work, and though he and I neither one are very much experienced on carb work, hopefully we can figure this one out with your knowledge and tutorials.

I was afraid where these are still fairly new to the market that there wouldn't be any help on particular things I run across, but glad to see there is a wealth of info here. Thanks again! I'll message back once I've gotten to try this out and see what my results are.

As for the washer needed to do the job, is that something I should be able to find at my local hardware store? Not sure what diameter/circumference I need to look for but once we tear into it I'd say it will become a bit more apparent.


 
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Old 11-29-2022, 09:28 PM   #19
gtrmaster88   gtrmaster88 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper View Post
It would be highly unusual if it were sent jetted rich. You probably got a #40 pilot jet, and #120 main jet. These are probably OK at higher elevations. If you are below 1000 feet, those are on the lean side.

Red hot pipe is more likely to be a sign of lean jetting. Rejetting this carb is covered in the 2022 1/2 Templar X thread in the pics and video section.
To be honest I had never thought about elevation but according to a quick online search, Morehead Kentucky where I reside (across the country from ol' Cali where this bike came from), I'm at 738' above sea level. So I'm sure you're probably right. Probably need to re-jet. Is there a link or place online you all would suggest for ordering the correct jets to fit the PE28?


 
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Old 11-30-2022, 08:17 AM   #20
Thumper   Thumper is online now
 
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For jets, look at post 18 above
See the reference to posts #7 and #25 there? That's where the jet info is ( where to get them).


 
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Old 11-30-2022, 01:32 PM   #21
Discoveror   Discoveror is offline
 
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getting close to that ideal 14.7:1 stoichiometric air:fuel mixture

Quote:
Originally Posted by gtrmaster88 View Post
... neither one are very much experienced on carb work,
After all the talk (e.g. about the 14.7:1 air/fuel stoichiometric relationship), your best source to KNOW (not just guess) what's going on in that combustion chamber is looking at the spark plug center electrode UNDER LOAD.

Pull the spark plug; the center electrode should be a very light tan color. Darker colors, including black, indicate a rich air:fuel ratio; a white center electrode indicates a lean mixture.

If the engine is allowed to drop to idle speed, that center electrode can/will change color. To see what going on (i.e. what the air:fuel ratio is) UNDER LOAD, kill the engine at speed withOUT rolling off the throttle (remember: the center electrode color you see will reflect the air:fuel ratio when the ignition was killed; you don't want that to be the air:fuel mixture at idle), de-clutch, stop the bike and pull the plug for a look.

Less oxygen at higher altitudes means less fuel is required to obtain that ideal 14.7:1 air:fuel ratio.

Enjoy ... jetting carburetors is a fun (and rewarding) undertaking ... made even more fun when accompanied by PATIENCE (and perseverance).


 
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Old 12-04-2022, 02:50 AM   #22
Zoey   Zoey is offline
 
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Headlight

How Good is the Headlight on this Bike Looks Kinda Small.


 
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Old 12-04-2022, 09:38 AM   #23
Hap   Hap is offline
 
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Quote:
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How Good is the Headlight on this Bike Looks Kinda Small.
On a scale from 1-10. I would give it a 6. If you can adjust it just right it’s adequate. It’s a led. I’m sure you can get a better bulb.


 
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Old 12-12-2022, 06:56 AM   #24
buzz   buzz is offline
 
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Wished I would have bought this bike is steed of my TBR7,sounds like alot better bike. Its is my first china bike, didn;t know of this bike when I bought mine. Happy trails.


 
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Old 12-12-2022, 08:09 AM   #25
Hap   Hap is offline
 
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Quote:
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Wished I would have bought this bike is steed of my TBR7,sounds like alot better bike. Its is my first china bike, didn;t know of this bike when I bought mine. Happy trails.
Enjoy your TBR7. I wouldn’t be surprised if a 300cc water cooled version isn’t introduced by this summer. Maybe you can sell yours and get one of those then. There’s always going to be something better down the road.


 
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Old 01-10-2023, 01:32 PM   #26
Thumper   Thumper is online now
 
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2022 5 speed thread post

I got the red idle adjust knob for my 5 speed, $6.60 delivered

Name:  RedIdleSlideKnob.JPG
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The bike is sitting under a tarp on the back porch under the deck. Same carb so it should fit just as well as the blue one I installed on the Blue 6 speed

I posted this on my 2022 1/2 Temp X thread in video and pics section:

https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...4&postcount=53

(https://www.chinariders.net/showthre...t=31439&page=4)



Name:  Idleadjust.JPG
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Old 01-10-2023, 07:36 PM   #27
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I have a red one, different brand?store? in flight along with some front suspension push button air bleeder valves, so I'll hopefully have those sometime in February to join in on the fun. I hadn't adjusted my carburetor much since the freeze but it was 80 today and 81 tomorrow forecast so the idle screw needed a bit of adjustment to get it dialed in for today's weather. Still not a big deal as I just reach down and tweak it, but I do take my gloves off to do the small set screw. Hoping that I can do the larger knob with gloves on to save some time and gain some hot parts accidental touch protection.
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2022 1/2 Templar X 250
- 6 gear model
- 13 Front / 40 Rear Sprockets
- #42 / #120 Jets
- 1mm thick nitrile O-ring needle shim (removed)
- Kenda K761 Dual Sport Tires
- Sedona Standard Thickness Inner Tubes
- Stock OEM battery, carburetor, spark plug still going strong
- https://youtu.be/dhAYEKH-jFQ

  1. Texas Pete's Templar X 250 Torque Specifications Sheet
  2. Texas Pete's Engine Displacement Calculator
  3. Texas Pete's Tire and Rim Compatibility


 
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Old 01-20-2023, 08:05 AM   #28
Intel16330   Intel16330 is offline
 
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Templar 250x

Does the MCO say motorcycle on the Xpro Templar X250 or does it say atv. In KY it can't be registered if it says atv or anything related to off road as of 2022 and I'm mainly wanting to order for a commuter bike.


 
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Old 01-20-2023, 08:15 AM   #29
tknj99   tknj99 is offline
 
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Motorcycle
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2024 Templar 250
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2018 VStrom 1000 XT

Former China Bikes: Tao DBX1, Brozz 250, CSC RX4, Titan DLX, Templar X, Storm DLX 150


 
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Old 01-20-2023, 10:18 AM   #30
Hap   Hap is offline
 
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Motorcycle
And from what I’ve heard from others. It’s no problem registering the Templar in Kentucky.
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22 Templar X 250
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