Bought a new CDI box....How can I confirm if it's AC or DC?

[98 SNAKE EATER]

OK guys, got good news and some bad news


Bad news:

Did a compression test and got a measly 60psi

Didn't have my leak down tester on me at the time, but figured it might be stuck rings like BogieBoy said, so I squirted a few ounces of Kroil down the cylinder and let it sit


Good news:

Today I cranked her over and the gauge shot up to 140psi

I was planning on just doing a leak down test, but after getting the new reading, I popped the carb back on, connected the CDI box, sprayed a little carb cleaner down her throat and she fired right up

Added a kill switch, ran some tubing down to the carb, filled it up with gas and did a few test runs

[bogieboy]

Glad to hear its running!!!!! The only question i have now is will it last ir will they stick again, i simply replaced the piston and rings on mine.... partly because once i pulled the jug and saw the stuck rings i tried to pull them out and promptly broke them into about 20 pieces, and still had several pieces stuck on the piston that werent gonna come out...LOL

[98 SNAKE EATER]

Originally Posted by clash 168cc

You need to use a feeler gauge and spark gap checker. They are not optional .Not where you should wing it. If you only get popping after that, could remotely be a sheared crank shaft key. Happened to me once on a boat motor. puts the timing totally off. Or your valves are leaking/corroded possibly. Take off the head and check gasket and valves.

It could possibly be a sheared key as the motor was locked up when I got it

I managed to free it with some Kroil and a couple of downhill clutch pops in gear

I'll throw a timing light on it when I get a chance

Originally Posted by bogieboy

Whats the history on this motor? I see a lot of water damage/corrosion on that carb.... if water got into the engine, i would just about put money on the rings being stuck in the piston, which wil do exactly what you are describing...and thats from persomal experience, my shineray came to me with frozen rings from water ingestion, only made 60psi compression. Would pop and bang but not ever start... slapped a new piston and rings in, hran a hone thru the bore and instantly had 170psi comptession and it fired right up....

According to the PO, he was riding it when the wiring harness near the headlight started to smoke and it shut down.

Been sitting eversince under a tarp without an air cleaner installed (about ~2 years according to inspection sticker)

I'll pickup a compression and leak down tester from my shop when I get a chance this week and see what the numbers are.

Originally Posted by Thumper

You need to clean that carb bigtime!

For any barn find, used garage find not running for a few years this is the first stop. I think if you clean the jets, float bowl valve, blow out hidden pilot channel and choke channel it will start.

I just experienced an apparent float bowl valve blockage on a nearly new motorcycle. Runs great for a minute, and craps out. Let is sit, and runs for another couple minutes. AAArrrgghh!!!

Guess who is taking the carb off again.

I have it all soaking as I type, although I've seen far worse (I've had to take a chisel to the gook in my boat carbs lol)




That being said, even without a carb, I should get more than just a few pops with spray directly into the cylinder, which is why I'm thinking it may be out of time (either due to the crank key or if the wrong AC ignition box somehow makes a timing difference)

Originally Posted by jeffrey

I found a wireing diagram for your bike at www.clevelandcyclewerks.com/gas-parts-manuals I thought it might help you out.

Thanks

I've actually had it for some time, but the wiring doesn't really go into much detail with the CDI box

[Thumper]

OK, It is Thursday. Install those pills, I mean parts, and it will spark to life

Oh. I am sorry. But more helpful, possibly... Your comment from PO

"he was riding it when the wiring harness near the headlight started to smoke and it shut down."

is something to be concerned about. It is a pain in the neck, but not so much on this naked creature. Remove it, unwrap everything, look for meltdown (potential short).

I think a generic harness for a 165FMM might be available for $25-40. But you might be able to rewrap a melted area, and rescue the harness.

You can also replace with a rudimentary handmade harness with only critical engine/ignition/coil, stator, CDI box... and see if you can just start the engine. It would be simpler to buy a harness, especially if you find melted wires inside the wrap.