Templar X AZ mountains jetting help

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by Thumper

I ended up using a flathead screwdriver bit. I could turn it by hand, but it is tricky keeping track of turns. I marked one of the faces of the hex end, and the ambiguity vanished!

Attachment 30647

You can slip a piece of 1/4" or 3/16" rubber hose over that bit to use as a flexible extended handle.

[Thumper]

Maybe use a 1/4" socket to add some leverage on the bit? I think it's 1/4"
That should fit in there between the frame stay and carb.

[bigdano711]

Exhibits A-D as to why I went with the Nibbi. And it ran fine out of the box, no need to "start over", whatever that meant. I made a total of 3 changes, all on the main, from 115 to 105, from how it came in the box.


No claim of extra horsepower, only claim is that it's a proper carb that is meant to be tuned. When you have to cut slots to get the bowl off, that's your first indication tuning a PZ30 will be a PITA. Have you even found the air mixture screw? lol



Exhibit A:

Originally Posted by GypsyR

Out of my rather large collection of screwdrivers, there's only one long, lean, whippy, and slightly bent one that I can easily use to adjust my idle mixture. I make SURE I know where it is now because to start with I was struggling to use an extra stubby screwdriver which was annoying.

Exhibit B:

Originally Posted by Thumper

I ended up using a flathead screwdriver bit. I could turn it by hand, but it is tricky keeping track of turns. I marked one of the faces of the hex end, and the ambiguity vanished!

Attachment 30647

Exhibit C:

Originally Posted by GypsyR

Eeesh. I tried using a bit too but the screw is just hard enough to turn to make that finger tip torture. Plus I don't have smallish hands/fingers which doesn't help.

Exhibit D:

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

You can slip a piece of 1/4" or 3/16" rubber hose over that bit to use as a flexible extended handle.

[Thumper]

We love to tinker.
Exhibit B is just using the right tool. Worked perfectly.

FYI, the OEM smoothbore carb that comes with the Templar is an excellent carburetor, and it ran OK out of the crate. Bumped jetting, shimmed the needle, and adjusted the airmix screw and it is perfect for my altitude. But as I said, you can alway buy another carb and start over.

[Thumper]

Starting over just means removing the original carb, installing a new aftermarket carb adapting choke and throttle cable as needed, and testing. Then rejetting based on the testing.

The original carb is already installed and testing is the first thing you do when you start it up!! Then you have to rejet for your altitude. No difference, except you don't have to reinstall a new carb!!

Removing the break-off bolts and drilling out the airscrew is just as much work as installing a new carb. The Templar just comes with a smoothbore carb OEM. Hawk does NOT.

The break-off bolts and airscrew cover are on every bike these days and easy to deal with. And no need to spend a penny if your original carb is good.

[GypsyR]

I'm not complaining. You can't really complain about any job being difficult when you don't have the correct tools to do it. You can complain about not having good/correct tools.
I found the perfect little screwdriver to tune this carb with and also discovered it works a treat on a couple of my Hondas too.

Wife's smartwatch died. I found I could replace the battery if I could take it apart. But it has the smallest torx screws I've ever seen and nothing I had would touch them. Instead of tossing it in favor of another $300 watch, I invested twelve bucks in a miniature screwdriver set so I could effect a proper repair. Just how I grew up I guess, in my family we don't toss things in the trash if we can repair them reasonably cheaply and easily.

Now spending money on a bike or car part because I think it's just better/cooler/prettier than the original...ummm, well...guilty there.

[K'hermiit]

Originally Posted by GigaXi

Hello! I've had my Templar for a few months and I've been riding it, but I got it used at around 1300 elevation, and I brought it to where I live, which is 5000 elevation. I've been trying to research carb jetting on my own but it seems to rely on so many factors, and I couldn't find any Templar specific jetting guides... I don't have the manual either, so I'm not sure if that would have helped. The bike runs fine-ish; Bogs out sometimes when I give it more throttle than usual, even though it feels warmed up. It's very easy to stall, but I'm not sure if that's just me still learning the clutch. It's also fairly hard to start. Takes full choke and a few seconds of holding the start button.


I ordered a set of jets, and they just came in. Everything is stock. What jets is everyone running at around 5k elevation? I live in AZ but in the mountains, so it gets pretty cold. It's like 30f right now. Thanks so much!

I went with a nibbi right off the bat. A bare metal PE30 fit perfectly into the original boots, and even the choke assembly screwed right into place, so it was an easy swap. The Nibbi came jetted lean for my elevation @ 2000+'. @ 5000' you may be okay as it came fitted. I wonder however....? You mentioned a cracked carb boot in another thread, and those two things can be connected. Leaking air into the boot will lean the fuel mixture and can cause similiar symptoms. Smear that boot with some rtv until you can get it replaced.

The carb I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B4VXVL57...t_details&th=1

Jet assortment:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082F7Y6ZK...roduct_details

[bigdano711]

The statement that the manufacturer makes on the PZ30 is clear: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO TUNE THIS CARB. The way the carb is designed is to prevent people from trying to tune it. The location of the air mixture screw. They don't make a tool for that. You have to fab a tool or come up with some other hack garage gimmick.


The Nibbi is a proper carb that WANTS you to tune it. The location of the air mixture screw is right in front of your face. The 3mm bolts holding the bowl on are a joy to remove.


You're going to remove/install the carb many times, so the "start over" argument has no legs. I had a good baseline of what jets to use.


I have a PZ30 for sale with a Nibbi cone filter. Anyone interested?

[GypsyR]

Originally Posted by bigdano711

They don't make a tool for that.

They kind of do. Here's what I'm using. A new one costs like $3. Just a skinny flathead screwdriver. Mine doesn't have the black finish at the tip.

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by bigdano711

The statement that the manufacturer makes on the PZ30 is clear: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO TUNE THIS CARB.
...
...

That is just a warning required by EPA. I am not that obedient!

People have tuned the OEM PZ30 successfully for years.

The airscrew is deliberately covered (another EPA requirement), but it is just a flathead screw on my Youall PZ30 smoothbore clone. And yes, it is adjustable!

The smoothbore carb that Templars come with is probably a better carburetor, but it comes with the same EPA required warning.

The OEM carb on my Storm was also sealed up, but that didn't stop me from opening it, rejetting it, and shimming the needle. Runs great.