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05-23-2021, 07:47 AM | #16 |
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Northeast
Posts: 934
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Has anyone actually been able to buy quarts of Rotella T6 15w40??
I went to 3 different stores (Walmart, Advance Auto and AutoZone). Only one store has it at all and they had one, single gallon on the shelf. I need a quart and don’t live in a house so I can’t store things. I also did a search on Amazon. All gallons. Do you just buy gallons and store it?
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05-23-2021, 07:50 AM | #17 | |
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Northeast
Posts: 934
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Quote:
The only motorcycle blend I found at the auto parts stores was a Mobil one. They had a “racing” 10w40 and a “V-twin” 20w50. Both full synthetic. Are these any good? I didn’t see any Lucas motorcycle blends Mobil “racing” oil Mobil V twin. I was thinking about getting the v twin because it is made for hot running air cooled engines. But I have no idea. Any suggestions on these ones that are actually available? Or where to get T6 Rotella in quarts?
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05-23-2021, 07:58 AM | #18 | |
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Northeast
Posts: 934
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Quote:
I’m always in extreme heat with this bike, so maybe that’s a factor. Looking forward to getting out of Florida and to some cooler riding temps.
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05-23-2021, 08:39 AM | #19 | |
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 269
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Quote:
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<div>Steve 2006 Roketa DB-07A/RSX-200E 2008 Roketa 250 Scooter 2019 Brozz 250 |
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05-23-2021, 08:48 AM | #20 |
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 759
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Just my 2 cents but i would tend to avoid running the super slippery full synthetic oil types, this is fine in Jap Bikes with newer engine designs and materials but these Chinese engines are very old tech and the clutch plates are old school pieces designed for use in primarily 3rd world Nations where they are widely popular and whose market is vastly huger than the tiny amount of China bikes sold in the US- These nations buyers generally do not have the funds to buy expensive synthetic oils and so the engines are built with that consideration ,to operate on "standard" motor oils.Full synth blends may actually be TOO " slippery" for the clutch plates and trans designs and cause issues.Anyone who has owned a China bike and seen first hand the excuse for oils, greases, and brake fluids they arrive with from the factory can see that any quality , non synth product is by itself a HUGE upgrade.
What i'm trying to say is i run a full synth in my much newer design street bike which was designed and built by the factory for use with full synth oils ,and i run non synth oils in my China Bike because that is what it was designed for , at least those using the old CG clone engine designs.That engine is a 30 year old design , when full synth engine oils were only in their infancy and not widely available .
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05-23-2021, 09:08 AM | #21 |
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 269
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As mentioned on these forums before,...don't over-think the oil choice. In the CG's engine intended market many years ago,...they would be lucky to see any oil changes, let alone being actually maintained...and they survived. Shell T4 (and T6 if you want synthetic) are both very well proven oils, in the severe heavy duty/service markets,..as well as in motorcycles for probably many, many years now. I know of a few GoldWing riders (1100/1200) that have run T4 for well over 100,000 miles, with never an issue...and its rarely (if ever) changed at the short intervals talked about on these forums...........proper viscosity, and the JASO rating,.. is way more important than the "high dollar brand-name" on the outside of the bottle. Honestly,..at the 300 to 500 mile change intervals some people do,..you could probably use Family Dollar Store 10-40 with fantastic results...at a dollar a quart.
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<div>Steve 2006 Roketa DB-07A/RSX-200E 2008 Roketa 250 Scooter 2019 Brozz 250 |
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05-23-2021, 09:29 AM | #22 |
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Northeast
Posts: 934
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Ok. Since the clutch is bathed in the oil and I’m having issues with getting into neutral reliably, I was thinking of changing from Rotella T4 to something else that might help the neutral issue. But I had no idea what.
I’m at 1000 miles and have only run Rotella t4 15w40 from the first time the engine was started. I figured t6 was a good thing to try to see if I could improve the neutral issue. Definitely open to suggestions though.
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05-23-2021, 09:51 AM | #23 |
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Illinois
Posts: 866
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I bought my quarts of T6 from my local walmart. But honestly I would check into the honda oil, I was surprised how cheap it was at the local Honda dealer plus you help support the dealer to keep the doors open. I think a gallon of GN4 was like $18, not sure what a quart would be. In comparison a gallon of T6 at walmart is $21
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2022 Venom KPR 200 Red- the fastest color 16t and 46t sprockets, NGK Iridium CPR8EAIX-9, aftermarket full exhaust system. Top speed 81GPS 2023 Venom SS3 KP mini 150– Nibbi carb, Nibbi air filter, aftermarket muffler, decat 2022 Venom Ghost chopper 250 1997 Honda GL1500 Goldwing 1978 Kawasaki KL250 https://youtube.com/@herbiesgarage681 Last edited by herbie; 05-23-2021 at 10:25 AM. |
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05-23-2021, 10:32 AM | #24 |
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 1,639
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The Honda gn4 is nothing at all special other than the Honda sticker and price tag ,nothing wrong with it ,but also nothing to wet yourself with excitement because you have it either .The Castrol motorcycle oil sold at wallyworld is good cheap oil .
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05-23-2021, 11:03 AM | #25 |
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: PNW
Posts: 983
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If I didn't have two China bikes and constantly in the mix doing upgrades and maintenance that eat up my motorcycle spending budget and combined with the fact I like to change oil often I would go for that Motul just to see if it would make a difference in that shifting issue. These bikes to me are all about the experimenting, something I would be hesitant to do on an expensive bike. Barring that any reasonable quality oil should work. One thing I like about Rotella is that it has a high ZDDP level a chemical used before the days of catalytic converters with a reputation as an anti wear additive and hence found in the diesel designation. Even MOTUL says there oil is "safe for catalytic converts" given the modern requirements.
https://www.amazon.com/Motul-7100-10..._t2_B0022ZFY2A |
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05-23-2021, 11:41 AM | #26 |
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Northeast
Posts: 934
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Ok, I think I’ll try to track down a quart of T6 to start. Maybe at different Walmarts or auto parts stores next oil change. I picked up the only thing I could find in quarts which was the t4.
Money isn’t an issue at all. I just can’t carry the extra weight of a gallon of oil I don’t need. It all adds up.
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05-23-2021, 02:26 PM | #27 |
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 80
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You’ve gotten a lot of responses already but I’ll throw mine in if you are interested. I changed to Amsoil 30w Break-in oil before first startup, based on recommendations from other Lifan Xpect riders. The engine runs quietly and smoothly with no clutch or shifting issues. Once I have finished the break in period, I am changing to Amsoil 10w-40 Metric Motorcycle oil (I used a little bit of this on top of the initial quart of break-in oil to get to top fill line).
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05-23-2021, 02:53 PM | #28 | |
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 8,100
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Quote:
I've been running T6 15w-40 in my hawk from more or less the beginning.
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05-23-2021, 02:56 PM | #29 | |
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 8,100
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Quote:
Just buy a good quality oil, keep the clutch adjusted properly, and go from there. If you live in a hotter climate, a 20w50 in the summer months is going to help, but remember to change it out if you are going to ride in the colder months back to a 10 or 15w-40.
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05-23-2021, 03:38 PM | #30 |
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Argentina
Posts: 756
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The reason why i avoid using syn oil in these engines, it's because it's an overkill.
They were designed when Dino oil was the norm. Don't know in the US, but here you can buy 2,5 liters of Dino oil with the same money you can buy one liter of syn oil. The only damage you will get when using syn oil instead of dino is in the wallet. |
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