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Old 09-03-2016, 10:05 AM   #16
Republic   Republic is offline
 
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Ok, something is amiss. When I adjust the valves spot on at TDC as indicated with the T mark, it sounds like I'm shooting a gatling bb gun into a bucket and I get this big of a gap on the 'alternate' stroke:




Could my T mark be on the wrong stroke?

On my previous bikes I adjusted valve clearances when the alternate valve was at full valve lift, could I do the Hawk the same?


 
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Old 09-03-2016, 10:22 AM   #17
Mudflap   Mudflap is offline
 
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You need to turn the crankshaft 360 degrees from where you adjusted, it's on the wrong stroke.


 
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Old 09-03-2016, 10:54 AM   #18
pcspecialist   pcspecialist is offline
 
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if that is 360 from the stroke you adjusted them on, you adjusted them on the wrong stroke and are currently on the stroke you should have adjusted them on.


 
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Old 09-03-2016, 11:02 AM   #19
Republic   Republic is offline
 
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Ok I've got it finally. I'm an absolute idiot. Its good that I've got a relatively simple bike to learn these things on.


 
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Old 09-05-2016, 08:11 PM   #20
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Quote:
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Ok I've got it finally. I'm an absolute idiot. Its good that I've got a relatively simple bike to learn these things on.
No harm no foul, We're All in This Together.
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Old 09-06-2016, 07:35 PM   #21
Ariel Red Hunter   Ariel Red Hunter is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Republic View Post
Ok, something is amiss. When I adjust the valves spot on at TDC as indicated with the T mark, it sounds like I'm shooting a gatling bb gun into a bucket and I get this big of a gap on the 'alternate' stroke:




Could my T mark be on the wrong stroke?

On my previous bikes I adjusted valve clearances when the alternate valve was at full valve lift, could I do the Hawk the same?
No the T mark is in the right place ; marking Top Dead Center. What you have forgotten is that since this engine is a four stroke, the "T" mark comes up twice for every firing stroke. Only one of those strokes is the compression/ignition stroke. Where both valves are closed. Yes, you can adjust them the same way you used to on the other bike. Just test them to be sure.


 
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Old 10-01-2016, 12:57 AM   #22
rtugwell   rtugwell is offline
 
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hate to dig this back up but every where the net says the tolerance closes after warm, but i hear it more after its hot, you say this is common?


 
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Old 10-01-2016, 06:14 AM   #23
Mudflap   Mudflap is offline
 
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Seems to be common wisdom that valve lash decreases as the engine heats up but that is not the case with many engines. I've measured the Lifan CG engine valve lash when cold and hot and verified the lash increases as the engine heats up. It's highly likely that all CG engines are like that but not absolutely guaranteed. Not too difficult to verify.


 
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Old 10-01-2016, 08:24 AM   #24
chinatoys   chinatoys is offline
 
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When hot, valve lash increases the most on push rod type motors. That's because the motor "grows" when hot increasing the distance between the cam and the rockers. Combine that with hot thinner oil and you can get quite a racket.

That's partly why most other push rod motors have hydraulic lifters.


 
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Old 02-18-2017, 08:12 PM   #25
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Hawk valves

While getting the bike ready for the new cluster. I went for the valve check. Without the tank peace of cake. As common, the exhaust side was slightly gapped larger than the exhaust. But still, not even a .003 feeler gauge would fit on the exhaust side. Intake forget about it. Interesting though, that valve train wear actually makes the gaps tighter. Anyway, I went with the .003 inch gap on both sides.
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Old 02-18-2017, 08:14 PM   #26
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While getting the bike ready for the new cluster. I went for the valve check. Without the tank peace of cake. As common, the exhaust side was slightly gapped larger than the exhaust. But still, not even a .003 feeler gauge would fit on the exhaust side. Intake forget about it. Interesting though, that valve train wear actually makes the gaps tighter. Anyway, I went with the .003 inch gap on both sides.
Top dead center for valve adj
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Old 08-18-2018, 02:36 PM   #27
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Yea it's all trial and error boys on these bikes I have the tt250 and the first time I did the valve check mine was ticking loud then I realized how to keep the adjustment nut still and just adjust the little screw on top to .07 I did both valves at that and now it's good with very little ticking sound . I did mine at 460 miles and I've changed the oil twice now. Ready to put some Miles on her


 
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Old 08-18-2018, 06:52 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chinatoys View Post
When hot, valve lash increases the most on push rod type motors. That's because the motor "grows" when hot increasing the distance between the cam and the rockers. Combine that with hot thinner oil and you can get quite a racket.

That's partly why most other push rod motors have hydraulic lifters.

so in this case you could set the valve clearance at zero on a cold motor if the valve lash
increases when the motor gets hot ?...

I don't think so...........................

The valve clearance is there because it reduces when the motor gets hot...
as the motor gets hot... valves / push rods etc increase in length closeing up
the valve clearance...


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Old 08-18-2018, 08:37 PM   #29
Mudflap   Mudflap is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pete View Post
so in this case you could set the valve clearance at zero on a cold motor if the valve lash
increases when the motor gets hot ?...

I don't think so...........................

The valve clearance is there because it reduces when the motor gets hot...
as the motor gets hot... valves / push rods etc increase in length closeing up
the valve clearance...


..
Remember, the cylinder and head also expand when hot. On the Lifan, Zongshen, and Taotao CG engines I've checked the lash increased as the engine heated up. May not be the same on all CG engines.


 
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Old 08-19-2018, 08:31 AM   #30
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What I found when I adjusted when the engine was cold was that the rocker arm and other parts don't move as smoothly/freely as they do compared to when the engine is warm. My valve gaps ended up being way too wide after doing a cold adjustment (the tapping was noticeably loud as well). When I readjusted the valves after I had warmed up the engine, the loud tapping noises were reduced dramatically and valve clearance was perfect after rechecking them at TDC after a few miles of riding.
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