10-20-2016, 12:49 AM | #16 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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I agree with using anti-seize on the SS studs.
Any progress on your project?
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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10-20-2016, 02:33 AM | #17 |
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Hacienda Heights, Ca
Posts: 281
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My statement of "bad mix" is strictly from a basic electromotive force standpoint. Sometimes a bad mix is the best available option.
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10-21-2016, 12:01 AM | #18 | |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Myrtle Creek Oregon
Posts: 873
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Quote:
Ya, I think the antiseize option is a good one. I'm not sure what kind of weak steel the originals were, but it's a chronic problem I guess. As far as progress, got the studs in today. Bought the intake manifold gasket kit. Checked to see if the PI intake fits on top the new older non PI engine. Perfect. So, tomorrow and Saturday is going to be a concerted effort to get the old engine out of the truck... I'll get pictures if it's successful.
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10-22-2016, 12:54 AM | #19 |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Myrtle Creek Oregon
Posts: 873
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Did some research on the 5.4 exhaust manifold studs issue. Looks like, the original studs are too small and soft. So the expansion and contraction of the manifolds breaks them off. And then an exhaust leak develops. Thus, stainless, or, at least harder, studs. Some people recommend loosening and re tightening them every so often too, once replaced. It basically resets them. So, that explains why I had at least 1 shear immediately with almost no pressure. Was already cracked. And, these ones even look good, with little rust. Not sure if stainless will help, but these stainless ones have no shoulder going into the heads so may have a bit more flex? Or ability to resist the stretch? I dunno. In 30k miles I'll know something. Lol. That's the mileage that they start to break then leak.
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1988 Kawasaki KLR250 1969 Honda Z50 silver tag 2002 Ford F-350 7.3 diesel 1975 Corvette 2017 Chevy Bolt “Throttle twisting geek” -LFN |
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10-22-2016, 09:46 AM | #20 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Altamont, Kansas
Posts: 15,103
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When I pulled my V10 I had about 5 shear off. I will still able to remove the broken parts easily with a vise grip from the heads. The heads are running around on another V10 now.
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10-22-2016, 03:50 PM | #21 |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Myrtle Creek Oregon
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Head one off... what a pain...
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1988 Kawasaki KLR250 1969 Honda Z50 silver tag 2002 Ford F-350 7.3 diesel 1975 Corvette 2017 Chevy Bolt “Throttle twisting geek” -LFN |
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10-22-2016, 05:41 PM | #22 |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Myrtle Creek Oregon
Posts: 873
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Passenger side head is ruined. Carnage pictures to follow
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1988 Kawasaki KLR250 1969 Honda Z50 silver tag 2002 Ford F-350 7.3 diesel 1975 Corvette 2017 Chevy Bolt “Throttle twisting geek” -LFN |
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10-22-2016, 05:44 PM | #24 |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Myrtle Creek Oregon
Posts: 873
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Driver side head is fine. Passenger side head is ruined. Engine is still stuck. I'm going to raise it up in a few minutes and pull the pan.
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10-22-2016, 10:00 PM | #25 |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Myrtle Creek Oregon
Posts: 873
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Rod bearings 1 and 2 seized. Evidently, the timing chain guides disintegrated and the small particles plugged the oil pickup. This starved the engine of oil. 1 head, 1 crank and 2 rods - toast. The engine could have been rebuilt tho, but since I have the good one, I'm just going to use it. I was able to loosen the bolts on the 2 rods, push the pistons out the top and get the engine to turn over. 8 more bolts and I should have the engine out of the bay. Whew!
Then I went road hunting for deer. And ate dinner. So, until next time...
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10-23-2016, 09:17 AM | #26 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Altamont, Kansas
Posts: 15,103
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I had a V10 that I believe hydrolocked from a bad head gasket. Two rods thru the block. Took us awhile to get it out of the van too. I had to pull the intake so that my shop crane would clear the firewall.
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10-24-2016, 11:25 AM | #27 |
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Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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Do you plan to replace the chain and guides on your new motor?
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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10-24-2016, 08:04 PM | #28 | |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Myrtle Creek Oregon
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Quote:
I'll bet it's to do with non frequent oil changes. Dirty oil, wear, overheating etc. my Jeep was the same way at 135k miles. Pieces of the guides in the pan, a blown headgasket, etc. no oil starvation tho, so crank and rods we're fine.
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10-25-2016, 11:07 AM | #29 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
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I can understand not messing with it if it looks clean. That said, it's easier to replace the chain and guides while it's out of the truck.
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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10-25-2016, 09:20 PM | #30 | |
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Location: Myrtle Creek Oregon
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Quote:
It's a roll the dice kinda deal, and I guess I'll take the chance lol. It may come back to get me, but at the same time, it may go another 100k miles and no probs.
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1988 Kawasaki KLR250 1969 Honda Z50 silver tag 2002 Ford F-350 7.3 diesel 1975 Corvette 2017 Chevy Bolt “Throttle twisting geek” -LFN |
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