Templar 250 resource guide

[tknj99]

I actually had spare jets on hand to fit the main and i think this was the pilot but don't quote me on that as i may be mixing it up with the pilot jet from my former Titan DLX: https://www.amazon.com/Motofoal-pilo...ps%2C77&sr=8-2

The needle is adjustable and the carb fits exactly as the stock one does.

[WeebleWobble]

As mentioned in the main Templar thread, there is no gasket between the intake boot and cylinder head. I was able to find a gasket at my local Autozone auto parts store that is a good fit. It's a thermostat housing gasket, part #35368.

[Okierider]

Originally Posted by jc3

What about replacement shocks? I am heavy and would like to replace at least the rear. Anyone know if there is there a cross reference bike?

Came here looking for this as well, or at least a new spring-I’m unfamiliar with how they are sized.

[Fast_Freddy]

Originally Posted by jc3

What about replacement shocks? I am heavy and would like to replace at least the rear. Anyone know if there is there a cross reference bike?

Unfortunately I don't have any information on replacement suspension components or exact specs for the oem parts. Your best bet is to start a new thread about it and any useful information posted will be added here as it becomes available.

Another option is to contact Joe Henner Motorsports on Facebook. He offers suspension tuning for Chinese bikes. I got some fork preload spacers from him recently that helped immensely with my too-soft Templar forks (I weigh 250lbs). Good luck.

[Thumper]

The OEM spring on the KKE rear shock on the Templar is 350 lbs per inch. It is the stiffest spring available from KKE for that shock. I contacted KKE Racing
(2260 S. Haven Ave Unit B, Ontario California 91761, United States), but their primary motorcycle product for North America is wheels, not shocks. But they can get you a replacement shock.
KKE model number is MA40B03
He quoted me $169 plus $80 shipping
Ya I know, shipping is ridiculous, but these are OEM supplied by KKE, manufactured in China for motorcycle builders like Zuumav, Kamax, etc.

To figure out what spring could replace it (not KKE racing), measure the mounted length from end to end first, Then you can remove the shock and measure the internal diameter on the mounting ends. You can measure the length uncompressed when you have it out if you want to. Overall spring length is kind of important. It might be hard to find much stiffer spring though.

FYI- I compressed the shock by more than one inch and it was STIFF!!!

Chances are, all you really need to do is compress the preload.

Look at posts 12 through 14 in this thread for a how to on preload adjustment:
https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=31860

Alternatively, The bolt diameter is 10mm (upper and lower rear shock mounts) and bushing length (22mm for the upper, and I think the lower one is identical - you can measure it). Find a shock with the same mounting bolt size, ~ same length or shorter if you want to lower it (1" shorter creates ~3" to 3-1/2" lowering). The only possible issue is the side mounted ballonet has to be at a slight angle to fit. Just get one without a ballonet to avoid that problem!.

Here are some specs I sent to KKE racing:
Some specifications:
-460mm distance from top to bottom mounting positions (center to center of mounting holes)
-10mm bolts top and bottom (mounting holes)
-22mm wide upper mount bushing
-350lbs/inch spring
-rebound adjustment is at the base of the cylinder on the lower mount
-compression adjustment is on the top of the ballonet

[Thumper]

Adjusting the valves on these SOHC 249cc 4 stroke engines is really easy. But depending on the make model you have, you may have to take stuff off to get to the head, more work than the adjustment in most cases! So plan any other things you might want to do with the tank off.
The procedure described here can be applied to practically any OHC four stroke (push rod engines just need wider gaps), but this is written for the 172FMM-3A which is the OEM 5 speed engine on the Spring 2022 Templar X and currently on the Templar M and standard Templar. Same procedure applies to the 6 speed.

Templar X started to ship with a 6 speed counterbalanced version of this engine later last Summer, the ZS172FMM-5 (yeah I know, why -5 if it is a 6 speed!) but the valve adjustment is the same for ALL of the 172FMM engines, including the ones on other brands like Lifan.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Heads UP! Start this task with almost empty fuel tank.
Not necessarily in exactly this order, here is what to do on the Templar:

-Take the seat off. Find the two 8mm bolts just behind the forward rack mount on the Templars.

-Remove the gas tank. Here comes the fun part. You need to drain the tank or have golf tees ready to plug the hoses as you remove them. This isn't all that complicated, so I am not going to give step by step instructions. The Golf Tees work!! So now you can remove the tank... Two 6mm allen bolts (one on each end of the tank) AND two more 8mm bolts at the front lower mounts for the air wings that mount to the black metal framed louvres. The gas tank rests forward on those wings nicely, off in the corner somewhere.

Now remove the right side metal wind louvre (two more 8mm bolts). OK, that is the worst of it. Now would be the time to replace the coil or other work under there if you need to.

-Take the spark plug out. This is optional, but it makes it much easier to get the crankshaft positioned TDC, and you can read the plug to see if you are running lean or rich.

-remove the access port on the left case, and put a 14mm socket on the nut that holds the flywheel/harmonic balancer/rotor on the crankshaft. Just in case you did not know, the stator is mounted inside this rotor.

-remove the view port on the top of the left case to see the timing marks for aligning TDC
Here is a photo showing these two ports BIG flathead screwdriver on the 5speed, 10mm allen wrench on the 6speed:




-Counterclockwise rotation on the crank. I like to use a 3/8" breaker bar ($12 at Harbor Fright) to rotate the crank (14mm socket).



This gives you extreme control on the position of the crank. The valve springs are strong, and the crank slips past TDC SOoo easily. Slow counterclockwise movement to keep the cam chain tensioned/valves closed at TDC.

-As you rotate the crank, watch for the T| mark on the rotor. Align the | just right of the T



OK, It is a 4 stroke engine (2 revolutions), so either BOTH valves are closed (compression stroke), or just the intake valve is closed (exhaust stroke). You can rotate the crankshaft and watch the rocker arms as the crank approaches TDC.
Leave it at TDC with BOTH valves closed so you can adjust both of them. A 10mm nut locks the adjustment stem-loosen it. Adjust it with a little screwdriver to 0.002" on both (0.0015" is OK on the intake side).



The tappet stem WILL tighten when you secure it with the 10mm locking nut if you don't hold it at position. Check it after you tension it. Gorilla tightening is NOT advised. Just snug it down and then another 1/8th turn to lock. Seriously, Don't. You don't want to replace these!

Close it all up and you are done.

[tknj99]

Nice write-up on valve adjustments, although you can get away with not having to drain the tank by just lifting it to one side and resting on something while you do the adjustments. Also, after removing the spark plug i found it to be very informative to use a long wooden dowel or something you can inset in the plug hole to feel when the piston is at the top

[Thumper]

Here is a good option for a replacement battery for the Templars. The dimensions are shown:


I got one last year for the 6 speed. It has performed well. I just got another for the 5 speed, and it cost even less ($26.99). Found it in Amazonia. It is slightly bigger but fits perfectly in the battery cradle.

Google this description to find it.
Weize YTX5L-BS High Performance - Maintenance Free

[Fast_Freddy]

Originally Posted by jc3

So I am still looking at this.. I appreciate your research.

Unfortunately the Templar and Templar M do not have preload adjustments.

I think the most cost effective solution is a replacement spring with more lbs per sq in.

Still kicking myself for not getting the X...

The Templar and M both have preload adjustment on the rear shock. Fork preload spacers are available from Joe Henner Motosports. You can contact him on Facebook. Here is a showing fork spacer installation. I myself am running Henner's max spacers which require a bit more disassembly to install but work great for my 250lb weight.

[IA_Grvlrnr]

Find yourself a Stainless Steel middle/Mid-Pipe Slip-On Connector Replacement for a Piaggio:

BEVERLY 125/300 2009-2016
MP3 125 2008-2014
MP3 250/250LT 2008-2013
MP3 300/300LT 2008-2016
X10 125 2012-2016

Found this 51mm/2" muffler adapter to work great. The O.D. of the stock exhaust pipe is ~32mm. It was available from a few sources with a search. You may need to fine tune the length depending on the dimensions of the muffler to get muffler mount to line up.

[Fast_Freddy]

The stock headlamp on the Templar is worthless. It's a reflector housing which only works well with incandescent bulbs but it is fitted with a very cheap, low output LED bulb. The only incandescent bulbs that fit the BA-20D base are low wattage and useless for a headlight. I tried installing a better LED but although much brighter, it had a terrible beam pattern (as expected). It was blinding to on-coming traffic with a weak, scattered pattern extending from roadway to sky.

LED headlights require a projector housing to work properly so I decided to test this dual projector replacement headlamp assembly from Amazon.



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BRQ1ZZL3...roduct_details


Watch for coupons on this item. I got 40% off and today it's 20% off. The same headlamp is also available with a plastic number plate and mounting straps on Amazon for ~$60.

Installation was a breeze. The light assembly is a direct fit replacement for the oem unit. The new light includes a separate pigtail connector to allow you to change the wiring pinout to match the oem 4-pin male harness plug. The oem wire color assignments are listed below:

Green - ground
White - low beam/running light*
Brown - running light/low beam*
Blue - high beam

* Interchangeable. Both are +12v when headlamp switch is 'on'

I wired mine:

OEM - New
Green - black (gnd)
white - white (RL)
blue - brown (HB)
brown - blue (LB)

The results are amazing! The beam pattern is near perfect, the cut-off is clean and well defined and the light output is very impressive. I would definitely buy it again. It is the single biggest improvement to my Templar yet. I don't plan to ride a lot at night but at least now I can and with confidence.

Note: I have no idea if this fits the Templar X or M number plate but the version with a new plate should fit without issue.

[Minisumo]

Templar X replacement throttle cable that is the same as the original is the Nibbi CB Throttle cable 36.8"/5.0 or 36.8/5.1. And comes in different colors if you are into that.

[Leroi]

New user here, I have read the entire post of the Templar X, a lot of it several times. I ordered the Templar X after reading.
Mine has a born on date of June 2023, and they have addressed a few issues noted in earlier posts.
Mine has an intake gasket, it also has a washer between the right side rear axle spacer to make clearance for the brake caliper, so no dragging of the pads.
Removing the carb is a pain, and I followed directions from user Old-Dude to get it out by removing the intake "manifold" and modify it.

When it came time to adjust the shock, I was too impatient to hammer it around one notch at a time. I started to remove the air box and then figured out.
1.Remove the seat and right side panel (if you cut a notch with a razor knife instead of the hole, you don't have to loosen the luggage rack every time you need to remove the panel, I read that somewhere on here and did it).
2.Muffler
3. Crankcase vent from airbox to engine. (I tried both ends, and the engine side is easier to reinstall).
4. Loosen clamp on rear of carburetor to airbox.
5.Remove two allen head screws in the frame and loosen the bolt right behind the gas tank.

Now the entire rear subframe will pivot up and rest on the gas tank.
Battery and all wiring stays in place.

You have unrestricted access to the shock preload adjustment and also a straight shot at the carburetor. I was able to change the jets without (removing the gas tank)....Duh, I meant to say disconnecting the carb cables or fuel line.

Hope someone finds this useful.

[Thumper]

I just remove the exhaust to pull the carb out. You do not have to remove the tank to get the carb out.

In fact, you can pull the slide out without removing the exhaust (just loosen the clamps and twist the carb to shim the needle). There are exhaust gaskets (in this thread, above) if you need one for reinstallation of the exhaust.

To get the rear shock out, just remove the upper mount bolt, and the lower linkage. The shock drops out the bottom in minutes.

I took the rear frame off when I first got my X too. I wanted to check out the structure, reassemble with loctite where needed, but I wont do that again. That is way more work than either removing the exhaust to get the carb out, and way more work than unbolting the rear shock and dropping it out the bottom. The linkage is easy to put back together, and you can drill a new lower mounting hole on the rear shock to lower the bike while it is out. I compressed the rear shock spring to dial up some preload (turned the collar by hand with spring compressed!).

[Thumper]

I see that your description has the rear frame pivoting, not removed. Your photos showed it entirely removed. But you still have to remove the muffler to pivot the frame. But as I said, you can easily remove the rear shock through the bottom. Just remove the top mounting bolt and the linkage. I have a spring compression tool so I can compress it and tighten the adjustment collar by hand. It is easier on those threads (aluminum), and reinstallation of the shock is easy.

And removing the carb is easy if you remove the exhaust. Removing the exhaust is easier than pivoting the frame too. It is just less work.

No need to mess with the rear frame.