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Old 11-16-2018, 04:59 PM   #16
pete   pete is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter View Post
True. His problem is that the big box stores carry the absolute cheapest quality imaginable. And that is where most people in the States go to look...ARH
yes even NZ is slowly going that way... If yer want something go to
Mita 10 or Bunnings.. because of that alot of the specilized engineering shops
are finding it hard and closeing down.. they are still there and they always will
be but just not as meany as there was 20 years ago..

People seem to have a attraction for buying crap.. then bitch and wine
like a school girl when it craps out..



.
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Old 11-16-2018, 09:51 PM   #17
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A new head is 87 bucks from CSC, but shipping ends up being 115 etc......just buy more odds and ends until you're up to 100 bucks, then shipping is free.
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Old 11-19-2018, 07:55 AM   #18
davisbm2   davisbm2 is offline
 
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Is the CSC head an exact replacement (does everything line up, are all the dimensions correct?) And if so, is it any better than the head that comes on the Hawk?

Do I buy the one that comes on the TT?


 
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Old 11-19-2018, 08:04 AM   #19
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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It's a direct fit and yes it a better head than the Hawk. Read this thread. http://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=21696
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Old 11-19-2018, 11:57 PM   #20
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The only thing you have to make, is an air injection block off plate(Emissions thing on other CG250) that the Hawk doesn't have. I used one from the crate steel that the Hawk came in.

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...RJNHY2bWo1ZGJB
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Old 03-23-2021, 12:11 PM   #21
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Anyone know what size bolts/ studs are used in the head? Are they the same size as the carb side? I ordered a new head for my 2015 RPS hawk 250 i am rebuilding. Old one was fucked up pretty bad.

This is about one of the last things I have to do on my rat bike hawk build!


 
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Old 03-23-2021, 12:29 PM   #22
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I found this reply in another thread:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Megadan View Post
Since the studs in question are metric (M8 x 1.25) the equivalent of grade 8 (SAE) would be grade 10.9.

On my last Hawk and the current one, I upgraded to stainless steel (A2) studs, washers, and nuts. Much like ARH, I use a double nut (main and locking) to secure the head pipe. I have never had one come loose or back out. The mid pipe mount is also crucial to prevent stud breakage (the one on the frame under the seat area). If that is loose and allows the pipe to vibrate it will put a lot of stress on the studs and increase the chance of, or lead up to, failures. I put two large flat washers on each side of the rubber in order to tighten it down enough without completely destroying the rubber in the process.
http://www.chinariders.net/newreply....reply&p=294479


 
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Old 03-23-2021, 06:57 PM   #23
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Good place to source studs https://www.belmetric.com/m8x125-coa...d-c-9_71_1840/

Just match the length dismensions to what you have.
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Old 12-16-2021, 11:05 AM   #24
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Size?

Anyone know the size of the studs holding the exhaust pipe to the engine head? Mine have apparently rusted to crap.


 
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Old 12-16-2021, 11:29 AM   #25
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One way to help center a drill bit on uneven broken stud is to use a punch. Take your time getting the hole centered. Punch drill, punch, drill...The punch also has the side effect of loosening the threads in the head. I always get some PB blaster or equivalent on there to soak before starting the process.

Thread size should be the same in the head as on the exposed threads. You can use a nut from holding on the flange to see what the size is. Maybe M8 x 1.25 (post 22 this thread)



Last edited by Thumper; 12-16-2021 at 12:40 PM.
 
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Old 12-16-2021, 12:47 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter View Post
True. His problem is that the big box stores carry the absolute cheapest quality imaginable. And that is where most people in the States go to look...ARH
I think "all-thread" at big box stores is actually zinc. I used 1/4" all-thread to replace battery clamp rods in a tractor. Anything requiring actual torque would fail!


 
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Old 12-16-2021, 01:29 PM   #27
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Is it possible to cut a slot using a diamond cutoff wheel in a Dremel? Then use a flat screwdriver to remove the old stud. Just a thought.
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Old 12-16-2021, 01:57 PM   #28
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I've had pretty good luck using left hand drill bits. The studs will usually come out while drilling into them.
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Old 12-16-2021, 10:32 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper View Post
I think "all-thread" at big box stores is actually zinc. I used 1/4" all-thread to replace battery clamp rods in a tractor. Anything requiring actual torque would fail!

They're zinc plated. Definitely steel. Mild steel for sure, but still. A magnet will tell you.


You're right in that a solid zinc piece of allthread wouldn't stand up to... much of anything, really. It'd make a bitchin' high surface area electrode for zinc plating other things, though!


 
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Old 03-29-2023, 11:21 AM   #30
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Hey so I tried getting them out and just basically got nowhere. Drilled the hole, tried to remove it, didn't work. Tried to drill it out and thread it, also didn't work. I got a new cylinder head. I figured out their m8 x 1.25 studs and got replacements too. Turns out the intake is a different size. Can someone let me know the intake bolt size and thread pitch? Is it m6? Im not sure. I assume it's standardized.


 
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