Minor Paladin Assembly issues

[Thumper]

No air filter change. For now, I am still assembling. The LEFT wing went on great.


But ran into a clear manufacturing defect in the right wing. Everything fits OK from the two cuffs aft, two bolts to the tank, and the bolt hanger that holds the wing to the tank. Awesome.


Then you look at the two bolts that secure it to the right radiator once installed. Mine has a full inch GAP on the lower mount. Not catastrophic, though kind of good for a chuckle. I just need two longer bolts and two bushings. The upper is not quite as bad, but same thing. You gotta wonder how these things went un-noticed. I haven't tried to FLEX the wing to install. Not going to. This gap is way too big for that.


Almost there.

[bigdano711]

Fab up a spacer out of PVC or similar. Can't wait to hear your ride reports!

[Mumen Rider]

If you are having trouble with the rear fender alignment for the two top bolts just get the two bolts in without the fender on and then let it sit for a day or two in the sun. Once I did that it made getting the rear fender on simple and hassle free.






An issue I am running into now is the threads on the rear shock seem to be catching the adjusters not letting me unscrew them in order to set the correct sag. I will probably end up removing the rear shock to get a better look and see what's going on, hard to tell with it in the frame.

EDIT: The rear shock threads are completely fine, the problem is the rear shock reservoir does not clear the adjusters. How did they not realize that at the factory is beyond me.

[Mumen Rider]

Originally Posted by Thumper

Then you look at the two bolts that secure it to the right radiator once installed. Mine has a full inch GAP on the lower mount. Not catastrophic, though kind of good for a chuckle. I just need two longer bolts and two bushings. The upper is not quite as bad, but same thing. You gotta wonder how these things went un-noticed. I haven't tried to FLEX the wing to install. Not going to. This gap is way too big for that.
Attachment 32182

Almost there.

The radiator mount will bend to be at the correct angle to mount panel. The issue I had was that the metal inserts were bigger than the diameter of the hole in the panel to mount it so I had to drill them out.

[Thumper]

Yes, As I mentioned, the left side wing on mine went together well.

I see you have EXACTLY the same issue I had on the right side. Not only is the plastic too far forward (close to an inch on the bottom), but also offset upwards, and they do NOT line up. bigdano suggested a section of PVC pipe, but I could not find any small diameter.

So I have tried two approaches. I made an oak block for the lower, Got a 35mm M6-1.0 SS allen bolt to mount it, then used a 1" screw to mount the plastic, using the standoff bushing that fits in the ~1/2" hole in the plastic wing. Black electrical tape wrapped tight on the oak block is meant to strengthen it, a few layers thick-also hides the thing somewhat.



For the upper mount, I realized that I have these wall mirror mounting tabs with a perfect offset Z-shape. So I got a 1" nylon bushing from Home Depot ($1.25) and cut it to about 1/2". I drilled out the mounting hole on the mirror mount, and drilled a new hole in the mirror retaining side of the thing. Both of these strategies worked, but I think the nylon bushing is a better, more durable solution.

[Thumper]

I also mentioned in a previous post that the head pipe was loose at the exhaust port. I discovered this when I removed the tailpipe section.

In fact, there was obvious evidence that they ran it this way at the factory. See the black blow-by? Also, this is NOT a crush gasket. It is a solid copper washer. So it MUST be flush, straight and tensioned in place well. So the tailpipe has to fit and NOT flex the headpipe!



Then I discovered why they couldn't seal up the header.

The distance to the midmount by the footpeg, and especially the two on the rear frame are too far forward, by a lot. In other words, the union by the midpipe mount is too long on both sides (needed to be shortened).

I cut ~1/4" from BOTH ends (the headpipe and the tail pipe section). I use Dremel EZ-lock metal cutting wheels for this, They make clean cutting easy. I filed both ends with a standard flat file to deburr and bevel the headpipe side, used a sanding wheel on the tailpipe side to deburr and smooth it out. This was barely enough. More than 1/4" would have been better, but I did not want to compromse the exhaust seal at that union.




Even after this mod, the midpipe mount is lower than the preferred location of the headpipe when properly tensioned (exhaust nuts that hold it on the head). I STILL had to flex the pipe downwards to install the midpipe bolt. NOT good. I can expand the slot on the frame mounted midpipe bolt hole upwards to reduce the tension on the header nuts, and it should seal better, easier. Something to do next time I take it off

[tknj99]

It's surprising this amount of factory mis-alignments and issues are being shipped out. compared to the Templar series which has little to no custom fabricating required. Hopefully someone at PSM/Xpro reads these threads and relays back to to Zumaav to cure future deliveries

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by tknj99

It's surprising this amount of factory mis-alignments and issues are being shipped out. compared to the Templar series which has little to no custom fabricating required. Hopefully someone at PSM/Xpro reads these threads and relays back to to Zumaav to cure future deliveries

My header and tailpipe were misaligned on the Templar as well. I was never satisfied with the seal at the header, went through a few crush gaskets fooling with it. It had to be flexed to mount the midpipe bolt. There were plenty of other issures, like the ridiculous headlight mounts way too close to the instrument cluster, and the generic wiring harness that doesn't fit and could not be properly sealed up in the black plastic hoods.

I am happy to report, however, that the black plastic hoods on the Paladin are excellent. All of the connectors fit way inside and there is plenty of room between the headlight and headset for those wires.

Also, the rear axel slot is far better machined and has much more easily readable position markers. Much better. This swingarm is also longer and seems better casting. I won't know until I ride it, but these minor fit/finish issues on the exhaust and cowling wings are not a big deal to me. I saved thousands on this purchase. What I am mostly concerned about are the engine and drive train. Peripherals are inexpensive by comparison!

One other thing- The front braided SS brake line is NOT long enough to port through the gap for it in the headlight housing. I haven't quite figured out how to route the thing yet. I think I need to get the clutch cable and the bundled left control wires on the "other" side of the brake line. I want it to move freely so it doesn't chafe anything over time.

[bigdano711]

Originally Posted by tknj99

It's surprising this amount of factory mis-alignments and issues are being shipped out. compared to the Templar series which has little to no custom fabricating required. Hopefully someone at PSM/Xpro reads these threads and relays back to to Zumaav to cure future deliveries

You betcher sweet pickled ass they do! They would be pretty stupid NOT to. I feel like guys who shell out the money and get these gen 1 versions first, then discover a bunch of issues like this, THEN post on a web-site with pictures and excellent details, should get PAID for it. Valuable information given for free. God bless America.

[LowBrewTow]

I also had all of the exact same defects you mentioned (screw holes for tail under seat, right panel not fitting at all). I haven’t checked the exhaust yet but will do that today. That’s the risk we took when we decided to be the first ones to buy a brand new untested product from overseas.

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by LowBrewTow

I also had all of the exact same defects you mentioned (screw holes for tail under seat, right panel not fitting at all). I haven’t checked the exhaust yet but will do that today. That’s the risk we took when we decided to be the first ones to buy a brand new untested product from overseas.

Actually, I think that the fact that these bikes all have the same issues is a good sign of consistency in the manufacturing process. Not perfect, but I didn't pay for perfect!

Here is the rear frame out for the grinding.



I slightly enlarged and centered the tail section mounting holes. This worked out well. That rear frame is hard alloy material. It totally destroyed a new grinding burr from a kit I got for head porting. That surprised me. This was not much grinding!

[Mumen Rider]

Originally Posted by Thumper

Yes, As I mentioned, the left side wing on mine went together well.

I see you have EXACTLY the same issue I had on the right side. Not only is the plastic too far forward (close to an inch on the bottom), but also offset upwards, and they do NOT line up. bigdano suggested a section of PVC pipe, but I could not find any small diameter.

Both sides of mine went together without the need for spacers. If you keep the top two screws on the tank loose, then grab the radiator firmly while manipulating the panel you can get it to line up.

Originally Posted by LowBrewTow

I also had all of the exact same defects you mentioned (screw holes for tail under seat, right panel not fitting at all). I haven’t checked the exhaust yet but will do that today. That’s the risk we took when we decided to be the first ones to buy a brand new untested product from overseas.

It's not a brand new model, it's been out since early 2024 in other markets with the Loncin engine. The other S8-XXX type bikes have been out since 2022. The 2024 Kayo K6-R 250 is using the same frame but has different suspension. The '22+ GPX FSE 300R is another one


Did anyone else have miles on their gauge already? Mine has two miles on it, I haven't even ridden it.

[LowBrewTow]

I’m not mechanically inclined enough to strip my bike down to its frame just yet but I did know that I wasn’t a fan of the decals the bike came with. They were immediately peeling after just a couple rides around the neighborhood. So I did this

[Mumen Rider]

A heat gun would help get those edges to stay down. You can replace the graphics with certain 2017-2019 KTM models, the side panel that mounts to the tank will need trimming.

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by Mumen Rider

Both sides of mine went together without the need for spacers. If you keep the top two screws on the tank loose, then grab the radiator firmly while manipulating the panel you can get it to line up.

Oh. It certainly looks better. Does the mid section of the right side panel deform when you cinch down the tank? I was able to force the thing into place but not without severe force and those two forward mounting holes in the plastic might not hold up. How did the two mounts on the top of the tank line up. Did you pin those before doing the loose tank maneuver?