2020 Hawk DLX check engine light on

[DoomHead]

Well, my air intake temperature sensor is bad. I can't find one anywhere online for sale. Anybody out there have a link to one for sale, or know how to get one?

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by DoomHead

Well, my air intake temperature sensor is bad. I can't find one anywhere online for sale. Anybody out there have a link to one for sale, or know how to get one?

Maybe a PZ30 clone carb would be the cheaper route. Oh maybe not. Should be an easy EFI to carb conversion, but what do I know. The air temp sensor must be the easier fix.

[Ol,fart]

I've had good luck ordering from csc motorcycles.com but they don't sell hawks. The closest thing they sell is tt250 which is what l've been going by even though there are differences. The problem is I don't know if they make an injected tt250. But csc definitely has the best website - with parts breakdowns.

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by Boatguy

That code looks like it is for the intake air temperature sensor for all motorcycles. I would almost assume that that is a fairly standard code assignment. Certainly no harm in checking that first.

Keep in mind that although this is technically not an EFI failure (the EFI controller), the temperature sensor is a peripheral input that EFI needs to operate. So if it fails, particularly if it is a transient/periodic failure, it is a diagnostic problem. There are more than one check engine light or transient EFI failure on this site! They are electronic devices, and they do have issues.

Maybe it takes some time to learn how to tune a carburetor, but they typically do not catastrophically fail. You can get home to figure it out.

And the fuel pump is another Achilles heal for an EFI system. A carburetor works on vacuum and gravity (fuel feed), neither of with can fail.

Also, Once you become familiar with your carb settings (which jets, needle height, etc), diagnostics become routine (float bowl fill circuit, general cleaning, rejet for modification).

So EFI may be convenient when it works, but I don't think it is easier to diagnose when it fails, and it does.

[Boatguy]

Originally Posted by DoomHead

Well, my air intake temperature sensor is bad. I can't find one anywhere online for sale. Anybody out there have a link to one for sale, or know how to get one?

Patting myself on the back for getting it first try.

[Boatguy]

Originally Posted by Thumper

Keep in mind that although this is technically not an EFI failure (the EFI controller), the temperature sensor is a peripheral input that EFI needs to operate. So if it fails, particularly if it is a transient/periodic failure, it is a diagnostic problem. There are more than one check engine light or transient EFI failure on this site! They are electronic devices, and they do have issues.

Maybe it takes some time to learn how to tune a carburetor, but they typically do not catastrophically fail. You can get home to figure it out.

And the fuel pump is another Achilles heal for an EFI system. A carburetor works on vacuum and gravity (fuel feed), neither of with can fail.

Also, Once you become familiar with your carb settings (which jets, needle height, etc), diagnostics become routine (float bowl fill circuit, general cleaning, rejet for modification).

So EFI may be convenient when it works, but I don't think it is easier to diagnose when it fails, and it does.

You should read the first post of the thread. The original poster made it home. It just was running rough. Same as a carburetor. As a matter fact, my entire bikes electrical system was grounding out and I still made it home. You’re just wrong. Nobody’s been left on the side of the road by a fuel injection failure here. Many, many people have been left on the side of the road by carburetor failures.. And this wasn’t the thread that we were talking about this stuff in. In this thread, we were trying to help the OP get to the bottom of what was wrong. And he did. Very quickly. Solved in just a few posts.

[DoomHead]

Originally Posted by Boatguy

Patting myself on the back for getting it first try.

Haha! You deserve that self pat on the back.

[DoomHead]

Originally Posted by Ol,fart

I've had good luck ordering from csc motorcycles.com but they don't sell hawks. The closest thing they sell is tt250 which is what l've been going by even though there are differences. The problem is I don't know if they make an injected tt250. But csc definitely has the best website - with parts breakdowns.

Yeah, I've looked on CSC. The TT's are carb only, but it looks like they have a AITS for sale that looks exactly like the one on my bike. I'm going to contact them and find out if it will work.

[DoomHead]

Originally Posted by Thumper

Maybe a PZ30 clone carb would be the cheaper route. Oh maybe not. Should be an easy EFI to carb conversion, but what do I know. The air temp sensor must be the easier fix.

If I can't find a AITS anywhere, this may be an option.

[DoomHead]

Originally Posted by Thumper

Keep in mind that although this is technically not an EFI failure (the EFI controller), the temperature sensor is a peripheral input that EFI needs to operate. So if it fails, particularly if it is a transient/periodic failure, it is a diagnostic problem. There are more than one check engine light or transient EFI failure on this site! They are electronic devices, and they do have issues.

Maybe it takes some time to learn how to tune a carburetor, but they typically do not catastrophically fail. You can get home to figure it out.

And the fuel pump is another Achilles heal for an EFI system. A carburetor works on vacuum and gravity (fuel feed), neither of with can fail.

Also, Once you become familiar with your carb settings (which jets, needle height, etc), diagnostics become routine (float bowl fill circuit, general cleaning, rejet for modification).

So EFI may be convenient when it works, but I don't think it is easier to diagnose when it fails, and it does.

On the EFI models you can turn the key on then off twice, then on the third turn leave the key on and the check engine light will flash a code. It wasn't an issue of diagnostics really, more of an issue of finding a new AITS.

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by DoomHead

On the EFI models you can turn the key on then off twice, then on the third turn leave the key on and the check engine light will flash a code. It wasn't an issue of diagnostics really, more of an issue of finding a new AITS.

OK. So EFI systems fail too... Just a different set of possible fails. Carb, EFI, whatever. Fuel systems just aren't perfect.

[DoomHead]

Just an update for everyone. She started throwing even more codes, so I figured I'm getting to the bottom of this. Took everything off and traced the wiring harness from front to back. Turns out right where the airbox meets the frame the the wiring harness was pinched and had a tiny worn spot. I could barely see it. 2 wires were slightly worn in half. I clipped them, reconnected them and rerouted the harness so it wouldn't happen again. She's running like a champ now.

Took me 5 hours to trace it down, but it was worth it.

Just letting anybody that's interested know, check your harness before spending money.

[robinkyle11]

I think it is generic OBD 2 code P0112.

Intake Air Temp circuit low.

The computer is seeing a short or open in the IAT circuit.

Check wires and connectors at the IAT and at the computer.

If the circuit is good replace the IAT and clear codes.

If that doesn't work the only thing left is computer.

I do not know how to clear a hawk.

It may be as simple as disconnecting the battery for a while.

If not it may require a scanner.

[Thumper]

Capacitance inside the EFI computer can retain the settings, and there might even be an EPROM that it loads from during initial "boot". To dump the capacitance and be certain it is reset, hold the power lead to the ground lead for a few seconds (while it is NOT connected to the battery or anything!). This drains any capacitance that could make the thing hold onto codes. This is a great way to reset modules that have onboard coding (EPROM) that loads a factory default instruction list when connected.

[Ol,fart]

Originally Posted by Thumper

Capacitance inside the EFI computer can retain the settings, and there might even be an EPROM that it loads from during initial "boot". To dump the capacitance and be certain it is reset, hold the power lead to the ground lead for a few seconds (while it is NOT connected to the battery or anything!). This drains any capacitance that could make the thing hold onto codes. This is a great way to reset modules that have onboard coding (EPROM) that loads a factory default instruction list when connected.

In Automotive we call that a brain dead. But it doesn't work on most systems newer than around 2000 year model.