Hawk DLX- Died after 5 miles! - Page 2

XLsior · 08-07-2021, 09:07 PM

compression, spark, fuel...

Will assume compression is fine,

Is there a smell of raw fuel when you crank it over? if so likely a spark issue.

if you squirt some fuel down the carb and it pops off..then likely a fuel delivery issue.

Bill Hilly · 08-07-2021, 09:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FunkyChina

Adjusted the valves today. The compression valve was incredibly tight and exhaust was too loose. Adjusted them to within specification and....nothing. Didn't help at all.

Fuses are all good.

I pulled the front headlight, all the wires are connected as they should be.

What do I do now?

When you say compression valve I figure you mean intake, but the concerning part to me is when you said it was incredibly tight. I think you might not have been on TDC of compression stroke when you adjusted them. If you feel confident that you correctly adjusted the valves. I would pull the plug, turn the key on, and turn it over while holding the plug grounded against the head with a screwdriver, and visual check spark. If it is firing well then you should prime it and see if it hits..You can even put a few drops in the spark plug bore, and quickly install the plug and see if it hits. Don't use much gas though.

stewbrash · 08-08-2021, 12:17 AM

What comes to mind, first, if you have spark and your valves are adjusted then it boils down to fuel. You either have a bad fuel pump, clogged injector or you are running with your petcock set to run-not reserve-and you are running out of gas. Now that I think about it...does a DLX even have a petcock? Are you getting power to the fuel pump?

Badluck · 08-08-2021, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stewbrash

What comes to mind, first, if you have spark and your valves are adjusted then it boils down to fuel. You either have a bad fuel pump, clogged injector or you are running with your petcock set to run-not reserve-and you are running out of gas. Now that I think about it...does a DLX even have a petcock? Are you getting power to the fuel pump?

Or the injector isn't firing.

Is the check engine light on?

TxTaoRider · 08-08-2021, 10:24 AM

I'm sorry I dont have anything helpful, but after reading so many similar posts, I'm glad I bought a carbureted model. I hope the bugs get worked out in the near future.

FunkyChina · 08-08-2021, 10:26 AM

Check engine light isn't on.

When I turn on the key, and have the kill switch set to run, I can hear the fuel pump cycle. If the kill switch is engaged to kill, the pump doesn't cycle when I turn the key to on.

When I adjusted the valves, I cranked the engine so that the line by the "T" that looked like a "1" was lined up with the line on the case. Is it possible for this to be on the intake stroke? How can I tell if I was on the compression stroke?

No smell of raw fuel. No carb since it's EFI. I tried to locate a petcock (I wondered if I was on a reserve or even set to "off") but I couldn't locate one.

J4Fun · 08-08-2021, 10:35 AM

Check to see if the sensor on your exhaust pipe is plugged in properly. Then go to your intake and make sure the plug on the injector is seated.

J4Fun · 08-08-2021, 10:36 AM

Oh and guys there is no petcock on the Hawk DLX, well at least on mine.

China Rider 27 · 08-08-2021, 10:39 AM

Turn the engine over watching the action of the valves as you come to TDC or T mark, the compression stroke will end at T with the valves seated the tappets completely loose (you can feel and wiggle them up and down. Turn it again and as you come off TDC the exhaust valve will start to open after the compression (firing) stroke. Keep turning it over to TDC until you see the relationship. Exhaust, then intake, then compression. After the intake valve opens to let in gas fuel it compresses and fires.

I don't know much about EFI or the DLX but I will speculate to help. I would disconnect the throttle body air intake hose and dribble some gas or starting fluid in the the throttle body intake and try to start it. See if it will pop at least. You might be able to see if the injector is spraying or take the spark plug out see if gaseous in the cylinder (if injector is working should be some gas in the cylinder if it is trying to start but I bet not because you would have gotten a pop or something) If it is sparking then it has to be a fuel delivery issue which could be caused by an electronic issue. Be deliberate in troubleshooting, eliminate things logically. Check all the wiring connectors for disconnection or damage. Previously said spark, fuel, air makes it go.

franque · 08-08-2021, 10:43 AM

I wouldn't worry about the electrical components yet... Yes, I'm fairly certain you adjusted the valves 360° out. Put it on 'T', check to see if it's the same looseness, and then put it through another rotation to 'T' again. Whichever cycle where the intake valve is looser is the one you should be adjusting at.

stewbrash · 08-08-2021, 11:28 AM

Ditto what franque said. Don't forget when you adjust the valves you manually turn the engine over with a ratchet, through the inspection plug, counter-clockwise and watch for the Intake valve to go up and down...and then very slowly turn counter-clockwise to the "T". THEN adjust your valves. Works every time. Also, it's much easier to do this with your spark-plug removed.

J4Fun · 08-08-2021, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stewbrash

What comes to mind, first, if you have spark and your valves are adjusted then it boils down to fuel. You either have a bad fuel pump, clogged injector or you are running with your petcock set to run-not reserve-and you are running out of gas. Now that I think about it...does a DLX even have a petcock? Are you getting power to the fuel pump?

Yes stewbrash, I think you got it right! The original fuel could have plugged the injector and no it doesn't have a petcock. The DLX shows you fuel level and warning on the instrument cluster. He has said he hears the fuel pump. Injector not plugged in correctly or bad fuel...valves wouldn't make the engine quit like you hit the kill switch as he said. Hence my thoughts.

stewbrash · 08-08-2021, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J4Fun

Yes stewbrash, I think you got it right! The original fuel could have plugged the injector and no it doesn't have a petcock. The DLX shows you fuel level and warning on the instrument cluster. He has said he hears the fuel pump. Injector not plugged in correctly or bad fuel...valves wouldn't make the engine quit like you hit the kill switch as he said. Hence my thoughts.

Good analysis! Another thing to consider is the controller for the fuel injection.

franque · 08-08-2021, 07:09 PM

I would advise you to do things simply, and start with the valves.

If you're new to anything diagnostic, start with the simplest things, those which are easiest to test/verify, that being 1. Sparkplug, throw a new one in it, then verify that you have spark 2. Valves, verify what I said first with your clearances, 3. Air - verify that the air cleaner is clean, and that there are no air leaks, and 4. fuel - verify that the injector is spraying fuel.

If all of those things are good, then we can start looking into other potential problems. For everyone else "contributing" their ideas, please wait for confirmation of the simple things before throwing out other ideas.

There are quite the deluge of ideas being put forth, and it is very easy to confuse someone with the flood of ideas coming about.

Until the basics are verified, we should refrain from muddling up the thread with 100s of disparate ideas, it's too much. This needs to be approached from a systematic process, not a bunch of random guesses.

OP: If you have any questions, particularly the process of doing any of what I've described above, feel free to PM me, I'm happy to help. I'm a professional motorcycle mechanic, and I'm available if you need me.

China Rider 27 · 08-08-2021, 09:34 PM

It doesn't get any better than that for help. Bravo Franque!!!

08-08-2021, 10:24 AM	#20
TxTaoRider Join Date: Oct 2020 Location: Flower Mound Texas Posts: 904	I'm sorry I dont have anything helpful, but after reading so many similar posts, I'm glad I bought a carbureted model. I hope the bugs get worked out in the near future. __________________ 2021 Tao Tbr7 - "Lucille" Mods so far- Brozz swingarm, 21" front rim (Bridgestone Tw302 rear/Dunlop D606 front tires), Digital gauge cluster, pz30b pumper carb, after market hand guards, aftermarket brake and clutch levers, round fold away mirrors, Fly handlebars shortened slightly, 13t front sprocket 2009 Q-link Legacy 250 1982 Suzuki GS1100ES - "Jolene"
	0

08-08-2021, 10:39 AM	#24
China Rider 27 Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: PNW Posts: 982	Turn the engine over watching the action of the valves as you come to TDC or T mark, the compression stroke will end at T with the valves seated the tappets completely loose (you can feel and wiggle them up and down. Turn it again and as you come off TDC the exhaust valve will start to open after the compression (firing) stroke. Keep turning it over to TDC until you see the relationship. Exhaust, then intake, then compression. After the intake valve opens to let in gas fuel it compresses and fires. I don't know much about EFI or the DLX but I will speculate to help. I would disconnect the throttle body air intake hose and dribble some gas or starting fluid in the the throttle body intake and try to start it. See if it will pop at least. You might be able to see if the injector is spraying or take the spark plug out see if gaseous in the cylinder (if injector is working should be some gas in the cylinder if it is trying to start but I bet not because you would have gotten a pop or something) If it is sparking then it has to be a fuel delivery issue which could be caused by an electronic issue. Be deliberate in troubleshooting, eliminate things logically. Check all the wiring connectors for disconnection or damage. Previously said spark, fuel, air makes it go. Last edited by China Rider 27; 08-08-2021 at 11:35 AM.
	0

08-07-2021, 09:07 PM	#16
XLsior Join Date: Aug 2020 Location: Australia Posts: 1,327	compression, spark, fuel... Will assume compression is fine, Is there a smell of raw fuel when you crank it over? if so likely a spark issue. if you squirt some fuel down the carb and it pops off..then likely a fuel delivery issue.
	0

08-08-2021, 12:17 AM	#18
stewbrash Join Date: Oct 2016 Posts: 405	What comes to mind, first, if you have spark and your valves are adjusted then it boils down to fuel. You either have a bad fuel pump, clogged injector or you are running with your petcock set to run-not reserve-and you are running out of gas. Now that I think about it...does a DLX even have a petcock? Are you getting power to the fuel pump?
	1

08-08-2021, 10:26 AM	#21
FunkyChina Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: Iowa Posts: 34	Check engine light isn't on. When I turn on the key, and have the kill switch set to run, I can hear the fuel pump cycle. If the kill switch is engaged to kill, the pump doesn't cycle when I turn the key to on. When I adjusted the valves, I cranked the engine so that the line by the "T" that looked like a "1" was lined up with the line on the case. Is it possible for this to be on the intake stroke? How can I tell if I was on the compression stroke? No smell of raw fuel. No carb since it's EFI. I tried to locate a petcock (I wondered if I was on a reserve or even set to "off") but I couldn't locate one.
	0

08-08-2021, 10:35 AM	#22
J4Fun Join Date: May 2021 Posts: 323	Check to see if the sensor on your exhaust pipe is plugged in properly. Then go to your intake and make sure the plug on the injector is seated.
	0

08-08-2021, 10:36 AM	#23
J4Fun Join Date: May 2021 Posts: 323	Oh and guys there is no petcock on the Hawk DLX, well at least on mine.
	0

08-08-2021, 10:43 AM	#25
franque Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea Posts: 1,481	I wouldn't worry about the electrical components yet... Yes, I'm fairly certain you adjusted the valves 360° out. Put it on 'T', check to see if it's the same looseness, and then put it through another rotation to 'T' again. Whichever cycle where the intake valve is looser is the one you should be adjusting at.
	1

08-08-2021, 11:28 AM	#26
stewbrash Join Date: Oct 2016 Posts: 405	Ditto what franque said. Don't forget when you adjust the valves you manually turn the engine over with a ratchet, through the inspection plug, counter-clockwise and watch for the Intake valve to go up and down...and then very slowly turn counter-clockwise to the "T". THEN adjust your valves. Works every time. Also, it's much easier to do this with your spark-plug removed.
	0

08-08-2021, 07:09 PM	#29
franque Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea Posts: 1,481	I would advise you to do things simply, and start with the valves. If you're new to anything diagnostic, start with the simplest things, those which are easiest to test/verify, that being 1. Sparkplug, throw a new one in it, then verify that you have spark 2. Valves, verify what I said first with your clearances, 3. Air - verify that the air cleaner is clean, and that there are no air leaks, and 4. fuel - verify that the injector is spraying fuel. If all of those things are good, then we can start looking into other potential problems. For everyone else "contributing" their ideas, please wait for confirmation of the simple things before throwing out other ideas. There are quite the deluge of ideas being put forth, and it is very easy to confuse someone with the flood of ideas coming about. Until the basics are verified, we should refrain from muddling up the thread with 100s of disparate ideas, it's too much. This needs to be approached from a systematic process, not a bunch of random guesses. OP: If you have any questions, particularly the process of doing any of what I've described above, feel free to PM me, I'm happy to help. I'm a professional motorcycle mechanic, and I'm available if you need me.
	7

08-08-2021, 09:34 PM	#30
China Rider 27 Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: PNW Posts: 982	It doesn't get any better than that for help. Bravo Franque!!!
	1