Rattling Noise While Engaging Clutch & Turning

[ChrisWNY]

What weight oil are you running in your engine? You could try a thicker oil to quiet those gears down...if you're running a 10W-40, try a 20W-50 in the engine. Make sure it's motorcycle oil, wet clutch rated.

[rjmorel]

Originally Posted by vickytulla

1 - I am observing the bike for this noise now there are more symptoms of some thing fishy then noise, I can not bring it to neutral if I am at standing still and engine running, it used to get neutral without effort usually.....



2 - also gear shifts are harder then before I thought it was just clutch adjust ment but on checking it was fine and tightening the clutch doest help much.... instead I have to release more clutch to make the bike move..



3 - Bike if put in gear and clutch pressed is impossible to reverse with foot, say you aer parked in a lot and now you want to paddle it reverse on foot and it is start and gear engaged (as if u mistanely put it in gear and now there is no way to bring it to neautral) you cannot reverse it... have to shut it down brint into neautral and the paddle...




4 - The rattle sound becomes loud when engine is super hot .. like 3~4 dots on heat gauge.



please dont tell me I need a new basket???

How many miles on the engine oil? When I get around 3000 mi on my engine oil ,it gets harder to put in neutral. Im using 20-50wt synthetic that CSC sells

[sqwert]

Originally Posted by vickytulla

1 - I am observing the bike for this noise now there are more symptoms of some thing fishy then noise, I can not bring it to neutral if I am at standing still and engine running, it used to get neutral without effort usually.....



2 - also gear shifts are harder then before I thought it was just clutch adjust ment but on checking it was fine and tightening the clutch doest help much.... instead I have to release more clutch to make the bike move..



3 - Bike if put in gear and clutch pressed is impossible to reverse with foot, say you aer parked in a lot and now you want to paddle it reverse on foot and it is start and gear engaged (as if u mistanely put it in gear and now there is no way to bring it to neautral) you cannot reverse it... have to shut it down brint into neautral and the paddle...




4 - The rattle sound becomes loud when engine is super hot .. like 3~4 dots on heat gauge.



please dont tell me I need a new basket???

Sounds like the clutch is dragging. Check the cable is not pinched/stretched/damaged/corroded/misrouted to prevent a total release when the hand lever is released. Loosen the adjustment at the hand lever and disconnect. Loosen the adjustment at the engine and disconnect. Insure the inner wire moves freely in the outer sheath. Insure the levers at each end move freely. Lubricate each end of the cable with an appropriate lubricant/rust preventative. Many rust preventatives do not lubricate very well for very long, or they attract and retain crud. If movement is free, reattach both ends of the cable, hand lever adjustment in all the way. Adjust at the engine end first. This allows maximum adjustment as necessary at the easier-to-reach hand lever end.

I've seen dozens of clutches and spring sets replaced over the years when the problem was damage or corrosion in the cable or connections/adjusters at one end. Such things are very hard to see, but very easy to feel and isolate when all the pieces are disconnected. Check for freedom of movement as each component is installed. One screw can make all the difference, and the reason can be simply invisible.

[vickytulla]

Originally Posted by ChrisWNY

What weight oil are you running in your engine? You could try a thicker oil to quiet those gears down...if you're running a 10W-40, try a 20W-50 in the engine. Make sure it's motorcycle oil, wet clutch rated.

Originally Posted by rjmorel

How many miles on the engine oil? When I get around 3000 mi on my engine oil ,it gets harder to put in neutral. Im using 20-50wt synthetic that CSC sells

I am using 20w-50 from Havoline its a JASO-MA2 oil which is for bikes.


I change oil at 1500km at max mostly do it 1200~1300 but on tour It went max at 1500km.


I did put clutch to a lot of stress out there in Himalaya, like three times I know when I was constantly dragging clutch for some time to keep bike in torque range.


Now even if bike is shut down and put into gear and clutch lever fully pressed even then bike is not moveable.


I adjusted (tighte more) the Clutch cable thinking that it might have loosened a bit but it did not imprved.

[vickytulla]

That makes sense am going to perform these steps (y) thanks... I hope it works... do not want to open clutch case...

Originally Posted by sqwert

Sounds like the clutch is dragging. Check the cable is not pinched/stretched/damaged/corroded/misrouted to prevent a total release when the hand lever is released. Loosen the adjustment at the hand lever and disconnect. Loosen the adjustment at the engine and disconnect. Insure the inner wire moves freely in the outer sheath. Insure the levers at each end move freely. Lubricate each end of the cable with an appropriate lubricant/rust preventative. Many rust preventatives do not lubricate very well for very long, or they attract and retain crud. If movement is free, reattach both ends of the cable, hand lever adjustment in all the way. Adjust at the engine end first. This allows maximum adjustment as necessary at the easier-to-reach hand lever end.

I've seen dozens of clutches and spring sets replaced over the years when the problem was damage or corrosion in the cable or connections/adjusters at one end. Such things are very hard to see, but very easy to feel and isolate when all the pieces are disconnected. Check for freedom of movement as each component is installed. One screw can make all the difference, and the reason can be simply invisible.