New Zongshen RX3 (ZS250GY-3) Dual Sport

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by katflap

Got a bit keen with the oil today and over filled

But rather than play with the sump plug to drain a bit off, where it can go

either way, just the right amount or all of it

Turned out its possible to get a thin plastic tube in through and down the filler hole, the one with screwdriver slot that sits above the clutch, and suck it up, block, take it out and release a tube full of oil.

Tastes great , nah , use a clear plastic tube so you can see where the oil is at. top bodge

Thanks for posting the tip, Kat.

Greatly overfilling the oil level must be avoided, since it can cause excessive oil pressures, and damage oil seals, et cetera. However, if the oil level is only slightly high, the crankcase ventilation tube will automatically, safely remove the small amount of excess oil.

[katflap]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

If you prefer the look, you can certainly use the neoprene fork covers. However, I suggest you keep them very clean. Also, I suggest you lower them occasionally to inspect for leaks from the fork seals. Some of these covers have velcro strips in the back so you can install them easily, and remove them easily for proper cleaning.

You might also consider the conventional, accordion fork boots. You can choose from a wide variety of sizes and colors.

It never occurred to me that I could use regular fork boots for USD forks

Thanks

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by katflap

It never occurred to me that I could use regular fork boots for USD forks

Thanks

You're welcome. The Daystar fork boots are available in a wide variety of sizes and colors. Measure your fork tubes, and you should be able to find a pair of boots that will fit. You can also cut the back of the fork boots to facilitate installation and removal, without needing to disassemble the forks. Cutting the back of the fork tubes also allows for size adjustment, if necessary.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dy...FcWUfgod_RkA-w

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by katflap

It never occurred to me that I could use regular fork boots for USD forks

Thanks

Here's a caveat. If you decide to experiment with either neoprene fork savers or fork boots, make sure you have clearance between the inner sleeve of the fender and the fork saver/boot.



Also, make sure the fork saver/boot on the right fork leg doesn't rub, and abrade the electrical line going to the speedometer pickup on the front wheel.

[woodlandsprite]

Hello, Gents new to motorcycling and bike maintenance. I have a deposit on an Rx3 but am a bit nervous of knowing how to maintain and troubleshoot. For example, the instructions above on checking chain tension only partially made any sense to me :P. Thx for compiling all those handy links in one place, Spud! I suspect I'll be needing them if I go through with the bike purchase!

[katflap]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

Here's a caveat. If you decide to experiment with either neoprene fork savers or fork boots, make sure you have clearance between the inner sleeve of the fender and the fork saver/boot.

Also, make sure the fork saver/boot on the right fork leg doesn't rub, and abrade the electrical line going to the speedometer pickup on the front wheel.

Just today I adjusted the position of the speedo line as it gets gritty
and was rubbing against the fork stanchion.

I will probably go with the regular fork gaiters that you suggested, not forgetting to put a small hole at the smaller diameter end

[katflap]

Originally Posted by woodlandsprite

Hello, Gents new to motorcycling and bike maintenance. I have a deposit on an Rx3 but am a bit nervous of knowing how to maintain and troubleshoot. For example, the instructions above on checking chain tension only partially made any sense to me :P. Thx for compiling all those handy links in one place, Spud! I suspect I'll be needing them if I go through with the bike purchase!

I'm not the best person to give advice as there are far more experienced riders/ mechanics on here than me but as no one else has replied yet.

I would say if you stick to the CSC tutorials on chain tensioning and the rest for now and you won't go far wrong.

That doesn't mean that the stuff on here isn't valid but if you are completely new to it then it is possible to get bogged down in the detail.

Don't let it put you off, the bike is great and as you gain experience wrenching on it things will become easier

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by woodlandsprite

Hello, Gents new to motorcycling and bike maintenance. I have a deposit on an Rx3 but am a bit nervous of knowing how to maintain and troubleshoot. For example, the instructions above on checking chain tension only partially made any sense to me :P. Thx for compiling all those handy links in one place, Spud! I suspect I'll be needing them if I go through with the bike purchase!

Originally Posted by katflap

I'm not the best person to give advice as there are far more experienced riders/ mechanics on here than me but as no one else has replied yet.

I would say if you stick to the CSC tutorials on chain tensioning and the rest for now and you won't go far wrong.

That doesn't mean that the stuff on here isn't valid but if you are completely new to it then it is possible to get bogged down in the detail.

Don't let it put you off, the bike is great and as you gain experience wrenching on it things will become easier

Welcome to the fraternity of future RX3 owners.

I agree with Kat. Don't be intimidated; you will learn by doing the maintenance itself. Everything doesn't need to be done perfectly the first time. Also, you will find many people here who are happy to help you as you progress.

[jimjr21]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

Thank you for the clarification. I see Zongshen has underestimated the curb weight of the motorcycle. Did your curb weight for the bike include any gasoline in the fuel tank?

Full wet weight includes all fluids to capacity.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by jimjr21

Full wet weight includes all fluids to capacity.

I was confident you would reply in that manner, but I had to ask.

[SpudRider]

Given JimJr21's weight measurements, and my own calculations, I have reached the following conclusions.

Advertised Curb Weight of Zongshen RX3: 386 Pounds
Actual Curb Weight of Zongshen RX3: 408 Pounds

Combined weight of the RX3 engine guards, luggage mounts, and luggage: 45 Pounds

Actual Curb Weight of 'Naked' RX3 Motorcycle, minus engine guards, luggage mounts, and luggage: 363 Pounds

For comparison, the Honda CRF250L has a curb weight of 320 pounds, but it only has a 2-gallon fuel tank. The Zongshen RX3 has a 4.2-gallon fuel tank, so we should subtract 13.2 pounds of extra fuel before we compare the two 'naked' motorcycles.

Zongshen RX3 = 363 pounds minus 13.2 pounds of extra fuel = 349.8 pounds
Honda CRF250L = 320 pounds

Therefore, the 'naked' Zongshen RX3 weighs about 30 pounds more than the Honda CRF250L. However, the Zongshen RX3 also includes a windshield, skid plate, and luggage rack. In addition, the NC250 engine of the Zongshen RX3 produces more power. Finally, the Zongshen RX3 is built with a very strong subframe, which is capable of carrying heavy loads without structural failure. When all factors are considered, I think the Zongshen RX3 compares very favorably with the Honda CRF250L.

Of course, the two bikes are designed for different missions. The Zongshen RX3 is an adventure bike, which has a very competitive price of $3,495, even though it includes a complete set of luggage and many other nice features which we have been discussing for over a year.

The Honda CRF250L is a dual sport motorcycle, which is more suited for difficult off road riding, and less suited for street riding. The Honda CRF250L has an MSRP of $4,999. If you wished to equip the CRF250L with a windshield, larger fuel tank, and many of the other stock features of the Zongshen RX3, its price would increase substantially.

I am very pleased with my decision to purchase a Zongshen RX3 from California Scooter Company.

[SpudRider]

CSC has reported several springs on their center stands have broken. Therefore, if you have installed your CSC center stand, you should remove it. If you have not installed your center stand, don't do so until CSC ships you an improved spring. CSC will be shipping new springs to all customers who bought the CSC center stand.

http://californiascooterco.com/blog/?p=16201

[SpudRider]

JimJr21,

Your access to a shipping scale is a wonderful asset. Thank you for weighing the engine guards, luggage mounts, and luggage.

If you have time, and are so inclined, I would love to know the weight of the very substantial muffler on the RX3.

[G19Tony]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

CSC has reported several springs on their center stands have broken. Therefore, if you have installed your CSC center stand, you should remove it. If you have not installed your center stand, don't do so until CSC ships you an improved spring. CSC will be shipping new springs to all customers who bought the CSC center stand.

http://californiascooterco.com/blog/?p=16201

A spring broke on me at CSC, when Ryan and I were putting the bike on and off the centerstand to learn the trick. It was replaced, then it broke again when I was home, and putting it up on the centerstand. I went to McFadden-Dale and got a spring that was 3 coils longer than standard. It looks odd when the stand is down, but it seems to be ok. Steve is sending me a new spring. I like the centerstand, it's very handy.

Here is the spring I bought. The coils are about the same thickness, but the attachments have more curve to them.

[Miss America]

Interesting about the springs. Glad to hear CSC is addressing the issue and has been up front and honest about it!

I requested the center stand to be installed prior to the Baja ride, so will have to see what happens with that!