Rpoc

[cheesy]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

What I don't understand is when I just had a tool in my hand, and I never find it again. It's as if it fell off the planet.

Oh, you'll find it again. Only you'll find it after you've bought the replacement.

[cheesy]

Replaced the funky Russian lock on the gas tank tool box with a real key lock. Now I can open it with just one twist of the wrist instead of twenty.

[Weldangrind]

Good idea. Save that wrist for twisting the throttle.

[cheesy]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Good idea. Save that wrist for twisting the throttle.

'zakly.

[cheesy]

So, back in the "What did you buy" thread, I mentioned that I bought this.
https://www.banggood.com/12000RMP-Mo...l?rmmds=search

I plan to get going on installing it next Friday because Mrs. C and I are hooking the camper to the Jeep and going camping for a few days. I won't be touching a cell phone or computer while we're gone.

Anywho, most of the install looks to be fairly straight forward, despite the contradictory instructions. One big issue I see is that the unit will be installed into a headlight nacelle and that makes the trip reset button inaccessible, but there may be an Outhouse Engineering and Fabrication solution to that problem. At least something is rolling around in my head.

One other issue looks to be the tachometer hook up, mostly due to the poorly written instructions. Is the pickup wrapped around the spark plug wire or attached to the 12v side of the coil?

Thoughts?

[Weldangrind]

Tough to say what "positive rigger line of the igniter" means. It also says "please buy cautious."


I would try wrapping around a plug wire, since I presume it to be inductive. Please let us know what works for you.

[cheesy]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Tough to say what "positive rigger line of the igniter" means. It also says "please buy cautious."


I would try wrapping around a plug wire, since I presume it to be inductive. Please let us know what works for you.

First try, anyway.

[cheesy]

Outhouse Engineering and Fabrication has hit upon using a low power pusher solenoid and a momentary switch to activate the reset button. It works in my head, anyway. And Amazon got fifteen bucks for me to try it.

[BlackBike]

Originally Posted by cheesy

Outhouse Engineering and Fabrication has hit upon using a low power pusher solenoid and a momentary switch to activate the reset button. It works in my head, anyway. And Amazon got fifteen bucks for me to try it.

This i gotta see!

I have trouble with "the button" but manage to finger it. Wait, what are we talking about?:

[cheesy]

The speedo works on my bench, so that's something.

Have entered the tire circumference after about 5 minutes of figuring out how to do it. Waiting on the solenoid, switch, and male 2.5mm crimp terminals from Amazon, which are supposed to be here Sunday.

Will be using the speedos turn signals, hi beam, and neutral lights. I can tap into all those right at the idiot lights on the nacelle. The running lights will be tapped into the fog lights on the sidecar.

Still need to figure out how to stop the fuel gauge from flashing. Grounding is supposed to work but I haven't had any luck doing it at my power supply. Might work differently once on the bike.

Still need to fab a mounting yoke to secure both the solenoid and speedo in place but need the solenoid in my paws before I can do that.

[humanbeing]

Originally Posted by cheesy

Still need to figure out how to stop the fuel gauge from flashing...

Fed a Dummy load (Typical chinese 100Ω's valve: http://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=17413) fools it...

[cheesy]

Originally Posted by humanbeing

Fed a Dummy load (Typical chinese 100Ω's valve: http://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=17413) fools it...

Thanks, hb. I did try that on the bench using various resistors, both grounded and powered. Also tried pots to get spot on. No soap. Either nothing changed or the entire unit would flash with the low voltage indicator coming on. I am fast approaching judicial use of black tape to cover the fuel gauge.

Thought about opening the case to remove the button on the back and the just soldering leads to connect to the dash mounted button. That case ain't opening. It's really glued tight.

[BlackBike]

Originally Posted by cheesy

Thanks, hb. I did try that on the bench using various resistors, both grounded and powered. Also tried pots to get spot on. No soap. Either nothing changed or the entire unit would flash with the low voltage indicator coming on. I am fast approaching judicial use of black tape to cover the fuel gauge.

Thought about opening the case to remove the button on the back and the just soldering leads to connect to the dash mounted button. That case ain't opening. It's really glued tight.

Worse yet, that button is probably soldered to a board too

[cheesy]

Originally Posted by BlackBike

Worse yet, that button is probably soldered to a board too

That doesn't bother me much. If worse comes to worse, I can open up the hole on the back where the switch is and just solder leads to the board mounted switch and run them to the remote switch.

Stuff did happen today.


First headache was that the OD of new speedo is 88.5mm. The ID of the hole was 85.5mm. Started opening the hole with a Dremel and stone. After about ten minutes of this, and knocking off a whole .25mm, I glanced up and saw my air compressor. And then a light went on and I said to myself, "Self, are you an idiot, or what? There is a drawer in the big tool box with air tools. I bet if you look, there is a die grinder with a real stone in there. Jackass."

So, five minutes later, the speedo dropped in place. I also figured out that the big rubber ring on the Ural speedo wasn't for looks, but to lift the speedo high enough to clear a crossbar running through the nacelle. So, I needed to do some OE&F on that, too.


Then I called it a day. CX500 for the next week or so. Will see if I can still ride it.

[cheesy]

Well, failure is a grand teacher. The solenoid setup works in theory but not the one I bought. Too weak to push the button. Hell, too weak to lift itself. On to the education pile with this one.

Soooo, I sprung for a beefier solenoid from MCM Electronics. This one will need a different mounting setup that may require​ both the plasma cutter and welder. Yay!