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Old 08-30-2022, 03:14 PM   #181
richpiano   richpiano is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2022
Posts: 15
VM26 came in the mail today and the bike fired right up! It only wants to run on choke, so I'm going to try an idle adjustment. Valve adjustment tool should be here saturday with loctite, generic barkbusters, the linked NGK plug and the orange CDI. Unfortunately, the jet kit I ordered from Amazon that I thought was for the VM26 clearly does not work. Does anyone have a link to a kit that fits the VM26 idle and pilots?

Last thing...does anyone know if it is possible to remove the stickers? Mine is the black colorway and I'd prefer to just have a black/white color scheme and sticker it myself along the way.

Also, I'm considering making a separate thread..don't mean to hijack someone else's thread. Thanks guys


 
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Old 09-06-2022, 04:34 PM   #182
tknj99   tknj99 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Central VA
Posts: 1,302
Well guys, it was fun but i've moved on to the Templar X and just sold the Titan locally. Happy with the sale @ $1500. So for the $650 differential i got into the new bike.. i'll be working on that new thread as i get to know and mod the bike.
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2024 Templar 250
2021 Beta 500 RRS
2018 VStrom 1000 XT

Former China Bikes: Tao DBX1, Brozz 250, CSC RX4, Titan DLX, Templar X, Storm DLX 150


 
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Old 09-27-2022, 10:51 PM   #183
richpiano   richpiano is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2022
Posts: 15
Does anyone have any advice for my carb setup? I am having some issues ever since changing the jetting on my VM26 that was linked here.
I have tried everything from 100-120 jets without much avail. Is everyone running a 110-120 jet on the Amazon VM26? as soon as I go past 1/4-1/2 throttle it will bog and die. It was running fine on the stock unmarked jet but only on CHOKE that appeared to be about the size of a #100 jet to my untrained eye. It also is having a pretty lumpy idle but I may need to continue working on the idle screw. I am worried about the stock air box too as it seems like the opening is not a completely perfect fit to the VM26. I am thinking I may get a 45mm pod filter and try that

Current state:
- orange box CDI w/ NGK plug
- removed emissions stuff
- stock airbox and filter
- stock VM26 pilot jet
- valves adjusted and in spec

I do not have the catalytic converter removed as I'm not sure I want to invest in a new exhaust if I haven't even been able to properly get everything sorted without it.

Today I tried a 120 and it bogged worse. I think I have a #105 in it now and tried moving the needle one spot richer (2nd to lowest). Should I try going back to the original CDI? The spark plug gap may be out of spec but I'm not sure that would cause bogging at 1/2 throttle.


 
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Old 09-28-2022, 09:36 AM   #184
severely   severely is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: odessa MO; donna TX
Posts: 152
Quote:
Originally Posted by richpiano View Post
Does anyone have any advice for my carb setup? I am having some issues ever since changing the jetting on my VM26 that was linked here.
I have tried everything from 100-120 jets without much avail. Is everyone running a 110-120 jet on the Amazon VM26? as soon as I go past 1/4-1/2 throttle it will bog and die. It was running fine on the stock unmarked jet but only on CHOKE that appeared to be about the size of a #100 jet to my untrained eye. It also is having a pretty lumpy idle but I may need to continue working on the idle screw. I am worried about the stock air box too as it seems like the opening is not a completely perfect fit to the VM26. I am thinking I may get a 45mm pod filter and try that

Current state:
- orange box CDI w/ NGK plug
- removed emissions stuff
- stock airbox and filter
- stock VM26 pilot jet
- valves adjusted and in spec

I do not have the catalytic converter removed as I'm not sure I want to invest in a new exhaust if I haven't even been able to properly get everything sorted without it.

Today I tried a 120 and it bogged worse. I think I have a #105 in it now and tried moving the needle one spot richer (2nd to lowest). Should I try going back to the original CDI? The spark plug gap may be out of spec but I'm not sure that would cause bogging at 1/2 throttle.
Gosh, you've done almost everything I have done to mine and it runs great. A couple questions though. Did you plug the line coming off the intake manifold after removal of emissions stuff? Why not remove the cat in the headpipe? I cut mine lengthwise with a grinder and cut 1" crossways and peeled back the side and removed the cat, then brazed back together. It sure sounds like an air leak to me with bogging but you may want to double check the pilot jet for blockage, Good luck, keep us updated.


 
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Old 09-29-2022, 01:45 AM   #185
richpiano   richpiano is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2022
Posts: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by severely View Post
Gosh, you've done almost everything I have done to mine and it runs great. A couple questions though. Did you plug the line coming off the intake manifold after removal of emissions stuff? Why not remove the cat in the headpipe? I cut mine lengthwise with a grinder and cut 1" crossways and peeled back the side and removed the cat, then brazed back together. It sure sounds like an air leak to me with bogging but you may want to double check the pilot jet for blockage, Good luck, keep us updated.
that's a great point about the cap. I bought a rubber cap and fitted it over that. What about the block off plate for the emissions port on the head? I just used a cut piece of metal. Maybe it's not sealed well and a gasket maker or sealant would work to seal it better?? Do you have any recommendations regarding that? The auto parts guy said water weld by jb weld was the way to go but I've never heard of that being used as a gasket.

I probably could get someone to remove the cat! I just live smack in the city in a small apartment without access to power tools and don't know how to weld. Spending $200 on a nicer looking pipe without a cat is something I'd maybe do in the future, but I'm trying to keep it budget until I decide if it's even for me.

Mainly this bike is for getting a start with offroading because I am not sure I can handle my 600+ lb adv bike on the local trails. If it performs well and is reliable it will probably become my urban commuter too.


 
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Old 09-29-2022, 09:01 AM   #186
severely   severely is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: odessa MO; donna TX
Posts: 152
Quote:
Originally Posted by richpiano View Post
that's a great point about the cap. I bought a rubber cap and fitted it over that. What about the block off plate for the emissions port on the head? I just used a cut piece of metal. Maybe it's not sealed well and a gasket maker or sealant would work to seal it better?? Do you have any recommendations regarding that? The auto parts guy said water weld by jb weld was the way to go but I've never heard of that being used as a gasket.

I probably could get someone to remove the cat! I just live smack in the city in a small apartment without access to power tools and don't know how to weld. Spending $200 on a nicer looking pipe without a cat is something I'd maybe do in the future, but I'm trying to keep it budget until I decide if it's even for me.

Mainly this bike is for getting a start with offroading because I am not sure I can handle my 600+ lb adv bike on the local trails. If it performs well and is reliable it will probably become my urban commuter too.
I placed rubber caps over both the intake manifold and the head port and secured caps with a small zip tye. A small welding shop might help with the cat removal for a few bucks and let them keep the cat material as it has some value. It's better than $200 for a new headpipe. Is the carb bolted squarely on the manifold, I've seen them tightened down not flush and leak air. Good luck.


 
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Old 09-29-2022, 08:04 PM   #187
richpiano   richpiano is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2022
Posts: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by severely View Post
I placed rubber caps over both the intake manifold and the head port and secured caps with a small zip tye. A small welding shop might help with the cat removal for a few bucks and let them keep the cat material as it has some value. It's better than $200 for a new headpipe. Is the carb bolted squarely on the manifold, I've seen them tightened down not flush and leak air. Good luck.
Today, I sprayed carb cleaner over my block off plate, carb and intake, including the rubber plug. No increase in idle anywhere. Now it's idling only with the choke on unless the idle screw is turned so high that it's above 2k rpms. My current main jet is a 105. My idle jet is whatever came in the VM26 clone. Could that be the culprit at least somewhat? Maybe my orange CDI box is bad?


 
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Old 09-29-2022, 08:27 PM   #188
severely   severely is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: odessa MO; donna TX
Posts: 152
Quote:
Originally Posted by richpiano View Post
Today, I sprayed carb cleaner over my block off plate, carb and intake, including the rubber plug. No increase in idle anywhere. Now it's idling only with the choke on unless the idle screw is turned so high that it's above 2k rpms. My current main jet is a 105. My idle jet is whatever came in the VM26 clone. Could that be the culprit at least somewhat? Maybe my orange CDI box is bad?
How about replacing the carb with the standard one, or replacing the CDI with stock to help isolate the issue. Has your throttle slide been installed/removed? Good luck.


 
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Old 10-18-2022, 10:04 PM   #189
richpiano   richpiano is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2022
Posts: 15
Turns out in trying to be gentle with the brass, I had not screwed the main jet in tightly enough, and also had an air leak with the current airbox not being installed correctly.. there was a big gap between the rubber and the frame allowing air to escape around the filter! I replaced the stock filter with a pod filter (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Air-Filte...more/568302849) and if I remember correctly am currently running a 100 main with stock exhaust and stock pilot jet. I ordered what I think are the correct pilot jets after getting the wrong ones before: https://www.denniskirk.com/ebc/rd-vm...d/17339730.sku

Mine is the VM26 knockoff carb but those jets look similar: https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/A...5be6b7a22ce1d2

I am able to hit about 45mph but it still sputters on full throttle and doesn't want to idle. Thinking of going down a size in the main jet for top speed and ordered a 30, 35 and 40 pilot to test those to stabilize the idle. Am I on the right track?

I feel that my main jet is still a little low compared to other reports. Maybe if I replace the pilot jet I would be able to go higher on the main? Not sure if that is how it works.


 
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Old 10-19-2022, 08:50 AM   #190
severely   severely is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: odessa MO; donna TX
Posts: 152
Quote:
Originally Posted by richpiano View Post
Turns out in trying to be gentle with the brass, I had not screwed the main jet in tightly enough, and also had an air leak with the current airbox not being installed correctly.. there was a big gap between the rubber and the frame allowing air to escape around the filter! I replaced the stock filter with a pod filter (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Air-Filte...more/568302849) and if I remember correctly am currently running a 100 main with stock exhaust and stock pilot jet. I ordered what I think are the correct pilot jets after getting the wrong ones before: https://www.denniskirk.com/ebc/rd-vm...d/17339730.sku

Mine is the VM26 knockoff carb but those jets look similar: https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/A...5be6b7a22ce1d2

I am able to hit about 45mph but it still sputters on full throttle and doesn't want to idle. Thinking of going down a size in the main jet for top speed and ordered a 30, 35 and 40 pilot to test those to stabilize the idle. Am I on the right track?

I feel that my main jet is still a little low compared to other reports. Maybe if I replace the pilot jet I would be able to go higher on the main? Not sure if that is how it works.
IMO removing the cat from the headpipe is going to make tuning the carb much easier because it doesn't matter how much air you take in if it can't be exhausted properly. I too think you're too small on the main if it's not revving to redline. Can the bike idle with a little bit of choke? If so it's an indicator your pilot jet is too low or the mixture screw is in too far in. Turn the mixture screw out a full turn and see if the situation improves idling wise, if so you need a larger pilot. The mixture screw ideally be 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 turns from bottomed to run properly but you can use the screw as a tuning guide for low speed operation. Stick with it, you're getting closer. Main and pilot jets are completely different circuits and shouldn't affect each other.


 
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Old 10-26-2022, 09:10 PM   #191
OrangeTitan   OrangeTitan is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2022
Posts: 4
Hey guys bought the titan a week ago, and the clutch doesn’t seem to be engaging. The clutch lever has no resistance and every time I pull the clutch in and put it in gear the bike jumps forward and stalls. I have cracked open the clutch case, removed and soaked the friction plates in oil then reassembled but still the same result. Yes, I have tried to adjust the cable to no anvil. I’m at a loss, any help would be appreciated.


 
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Old 10-27-2022, 12:02 AM   #192
severely   severely is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: odessa MO; donna TX
Posts: 152
When you have the clutch cable removed is there a point in the movement of the clutch arm where you feel clutch spring pressure?


 
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Old 10-27-2022, 04:25 PM   #193
OrangeTitan   OrangeTitan is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2022
Posts: 4
The only tension is coming from a spring on the clutch arm itself. There isn’t any from the actual clutch assembly.


 
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Old 10-27-2022, 06:36 PM   #194
severely   severely is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: odessa MO; donna TX
Posts: 152
Quote:
Originally Posted by OrangeTitan View Post
The only tension is coming from a spring on the clutch arm itself. There isn’t any from the actual clutch assembly.
I'm guessing a part is missing. There are parts that come into contact with the clutch arm when it's moved on the clutch basket itself that depress/disengage the clutch. I don't have a parts diagram handy. Can anyone help out here?


 
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Old 10-27-2022, 07:45 PM   #195
OrangeTitan   OrangeTitan is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2022
Posts: 4
I am familiar with the part you are referring to. It sits on a bearing. That part isn’t missing. Either the arm isn’t connecting with it (I don’t think that’s it) or for some reason that part isn’t depressing (my rolling theory). Is it possible to depress that with your hand to check if it actually depresses or is it to strong to do with your hand?


 
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