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#1861 |
Join Date: Jun 2024
Posts: 116
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How's the handlebar risers working out? Thinking about trying some of those. I feel myself having to reach out a bit too much with the stock ones.
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#1862 | |
Join Date: Jul 2024
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 47
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Quote:
I did have to relocate the throttle cable along the right side of the frame to allow enough slack to move the bars up and back. Just used a rubber lined metal cable clamp under the top bolt of the rectifier to secure the cable, and ziptie to loosely secure the cable to the frame near the carburetor
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CC-John "I void warranties" 2024 Templar 250 X 2018 Nissan Frontier (work truck) 2006 Ford F-150 Crew cab (play truck) 1973 Century Resorter 16 (Floating Muscle Car) |
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#1863 |
Join Date: Aug 2024
Location: The woods of southern Oregon
Posts: 20
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Powersportsmax.com lowered the price another $50 today for Black Friday. $1850 plus $300 shipping.
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#1864 |
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Central FL
Posts: 24
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Hello,
I got in a wreck the other day. I'm fine but the bike isn't so much though. Bike did a front flip. Bent the hell out of the front rim and that rear metal cargo rack. I also broke the speedometer and the headlight/number plate assembly. I have a new rim and speedometer on order but I can't seem to find a suitable replacement number plate/headlight assembly. Anyone have luck with aftermarket assemblies on Amazon? Its hard to tell without having them in person but looking at photos online I haven't seen any of them that look like they have the same mounting holes as stock. Xpro must use some sort of custom number plate, or I just don't know the correct terms to look up LOL. By the way. Even though the front rim got bent to hell in that crash, the front tube is STILL HOLDING AIR! That's after 4000 miles of abuse already. It doesn't have enough power to wheelie my fat butt so the front wheel gets quite a bit of abuse offroading. Amazing. I remember as a kid having to replace my front tubes every month or so on my KLX 140L. |
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#1865 |
Join Date: Jun 2024
Posts: 116
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I put one of these on mine. Unlike the OEM, it's actually usable at night but it's not a direct bolt on. I had to fabricate two right angle brackets for the bottom.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B13XDLNS...sin_title&th=1 |
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#1866 |
Join Date: Nov 2024
Posts: 4
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Any advice on getting the air box re-installed? Removed to preload the rear shock. Knuckles have been busted and curse words uttered.
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#1867 |
Join Date: Jun 2024
Posts: 116
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I didn't remove the airbox when I removed the shock to lower mine. Where are you having trouble on reassembly? I guess you already have access to the filter side of the airbox via seat and battery cage removed? Many curse words were also uttered toward mine.
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#1868 |
Join Date: Nov 2024
Posts: 4
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I ended up getting it. I had to remove the battery and air filter. Wasn’t complicated just SUPER tight.
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#1869 |
Join Date: Nov 2024
Posts: 4
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Airbox removal and re-installation
Airbox removal and re-installation.
I struggled with this yesterday and after sleeping on it, I knocked it out pretty quickly this morning. To help others, this is what I did and would do differently. Removal is pretty easy, though tedious. Loosen the clamp on the carb hose and use an 8mm wrench to slowly remove the 5 lock nuts connecting the air boot to the filter frame. The whole thing is fairly flexible and comes out with a little force. Re-install(headlamp is a must): 1. Remove the seat, battery and tray, and air filter. This is a must as it will allow you to push the inner filter frame back into the outer boot part. This was the key for me, I don’t see how it would be possible any other way but if I am wrong let me know. 2. I first pushed the boot in place and connected to the carb first. I applied a tiny bit of dishwashing liquid to the inside of the hose and it slipped right on. 3. Finally start working each bolt through the five holes. This was a pain but it helped to use a flat head screw driver to push and get things aligned. At one point I used a pair of needle nose pliers to grab the rubber edge of the boot and stretch it so that it would align with the holes. 4. I added the lock nuts to each bolt as I got them pushed through. Four were pretty easy but the upper left is a bitch because it is cramped out by the gas cylinder attached to the rear shock. I managed to get it on by holding the nut in a pair of needle nose pliers and playing operation for about 15 minutes. |
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#1870 | |
Join Date: May 2024
Posts: 3
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Quote:
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#1872 |
Join Date: Nov 2024
Location: Washington
Posts: 13
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awesome graphics
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#1874 |
Join Date: Mar 2024
Posts: 1
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Does anyone have a 250x in northwest Illinois I could possibly see in person to check over before buying? Thanks in advance.
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#1875 |
Join Date: Nov 2022
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 624
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Just a quick update.
I have ridden in the day time for years and never bothered upgrading the OEM LED headlight from the factory on my Templar X 250. Now I am riding it at night and the headlights are too dangerous to ignore in their dim factory state. I just picked up and installed these: ![]() I just installed them and did the first night ride. Unlike the high powered LED headlight replacements of just a year ago that were too long and had their fans sticking out so much they blocked the headlight rubber wiring boot this one is almost the same length in the rear as the OEM. It is still a few mm longer so you won't get the boot down all the way as with the OEM bulb but I got my boot on just fine on my particular bike, YMMV. The ride at night now with this headlight bulb... OMFG ![]() ![]() I never though I could get this out of the original OEM reflector and headlight housing but the road at night literally now is lit up just like a modern car. On the standard headlight on beam setting it appears a thousand percent brighter than the OEM LED light bulb on high beam mode. The entire road ahead and side to side are completely lit up bright as could be. Very happy why didn't I do this sooner. ![]() ![]() I will say this if you are riding these bikes at night don't wait, just replace the LED headlight bulb from day one. It is a safety issue to ride into the night with the original one. There was no need to install additional brackets or modifications to try and angle the factory headlight down further on the bike. I found that backing the adjustment screw at the bottom of the headlight all the way out kept enough light on the road on regular beam mode for my bike and still allow tons of spill out to the sides to light up the adjacent lane and the side along the road on my lane. I have not had a need to switch it to high beam mode yet the brightness is that much better on standard mode but if I do have to adjust the high beam height I'll amend this post. Here is another shot in the cart if you need to see what the other images of the LED bulb look like. ![]() The other items are Plastic Rain X for the visor since I am an all weather rider. The one way bleeder valves is just another experiment. They should be able to be taken apart. If so then I can clean them after use with brake fluid and then take them apart after the job is done to clean them properly to make them last. This is a solution to buying dedicate speed bleeder valves that you have to buy and install on every wheel which adds up in cost quickly if you have lots of 4 and 2 wheel vehicles -- or a proper vacuum/pressure pump setup to assist with bleeding. Time will tell how these go.
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2022 1/2 Templar X 250 - 6 gear model - 13 Front / 40 Rear Sprockets - #42 / #120 Jets - 1mm thick nitrile O-ring needle shim (removed) - Kenda K761 Dual Sport Tires - Sedona Standard Thickness Inner Tubes - Stock OEM battery, carburetor, spark plug still going strong - https://youtu.be/dhAYEKH-jFQ |
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