Templar X 250

[CC-John]

Originally Posted by eatondirt

^ That is very smart. I don't know how sturdy those apache boxes are, are they entirely plastic or metal in a plastic shell?

They're heavy gauge rotomolded polyethylene plastic on par with the eye wateringly expensive Pelican brand cases. I don't plan on hauling my cannonball collection so I think it will do just fine for it's intended purpose.

[eatondirt]

That's fantastic, and thanks for advice on the lowering. I think that may push me in the direction of buying one.

[CC-John]

Here's the thread that shows a bit more detail on modifying the rear shock on the Templar X's. While having a drill press makes doing this mod easier and more precise, it's not absolutely necessary. I went with drilling the "lowering" hole 3/4" center to center with the stock bolt hole and it gave me just about 2 1/2" of drop in seat height. That dimension also left enough "meat" between the two holes that I could return the bike back to stock height without worry of the shock fork failing.

https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=31860

[eatondirt]

Originally Posted by CC-John

Here's the thread that shows a bit more detail on modifying the rear shock on the Templar X's. While having a drill press makes doing this mod easier and more precise, it's not absolutely necessary. I went with drilling the "lowering" hole 3/4" center to center with the stock bolt hole and it gave me just about 2 1/2" of drop in seat height. That dimension also left enough "meat" between the two holes that I could return the bike back to stock height without worry of the shock fork failing.

https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=31860

I'm noticing that mod also comes with preloading the rear shock with an extra 200 or so lbs, is that something you've had to do?

[CC-John]

Originally Posted by eatondirt

I'm noticing that mod also comes with preloading the rear shock with an extra 200 or so lbs, is that something you've had to do?

Unless you tip the scales north of 180 pounds, cranking in more spring preload probably won't be necessary.

I cranked in just enough preload to remove all the static sag in the rear suspension. (the amount the suspensions sags with just the weight of the bike) The bike still has about 3" of sag when I park my 235 pounds on the seat.

These bikes are setup with about 4" of sag from the factory based on a 150-180 pound rider.

[Crossbar]

Originally Posted by eatondirt

I'm noticing that mod also comes with preloading the rear shock ....

I found mine just a little soft on the pre-load after I lowered. I did the same 3/4 as CC-John. I ended up putting about 4 or 5 turns on the lock ring to increase mine some.

[Still Riding]

I too drilled another hole in the shock, 3/4" on center from stock. I'm setting this bike up for my wife who is about 5'-6". I did not add any preload. I returned the forks to stock position because I did not like the quicker steering. Because we are only shortening the shock we aren't changing the geometry of the suspension. Yes? If yes, then no change to preload is required that wouldn't otherwise be needed.


I was wondering why all the comments about soft front end when mine is absolutely harsh. At speed, hitting a big hole or rock the forks are perfect (I weigh about 160) but the small stuff is positively jarring! Until I discovered my forks are labelled wrong. I should have just used my brain! Adjusters turned clockwise will increase the effect. My compression was set to max. All better now.


It took quite a bit of lead but I was able to ballance the front wheel. Now it needs truing to get it round.


I only have about 200 miles on the bike. So far the engine is getting smoother and more willing to rev each ride.


Softening the seat is next. I spent 2 hours riding in the woods yesterday and my butt was sore!

[Weresquatch]

Originally Posted by eatondirt

So I've been told, once or twice now, NOT to buy the Templar X as a short rider who is just getting into dual sports. Instead, look up the regular templar or a bike from Xpro's competitors like the brozz as their seat height is shorter.

But it's so hard to not turn my head at this bike from every technical specific I can find. I mean, counterbalanced engine with six gears? for 2200? It seems like a steal.

That is, if I wasn't a short guy just above 29" inseam. Anyone in the mid five-foot range been riding one?



This could be my answer, even if modifying a bike I haven't even seen yet as a purchase plan may not be the best idea.

These bikes are light. You can lean them *way* over to help you mount. I'm 5'8" 205lbs 30" inseam. It's always a bit of an adjustment coming from my other vehicles but you get used to it. Try to dismount way more "forward" than you're used to just like how you ride them more forward. Good luck.

[Still Riding]

Another way to mount/dismount is as if it's a horse. Hands on bars grab the front brake, lean forward and place your left foot on the left peg. Stand on this peg and swing your right leg over the bike then dangle it behind the right peg. Lean your body towards the right to get the weight off the side stand and use your right leg to hold up the bike while you kick up the stand with your left.

As stated, these bikes feel light so even if you are not flat footed you can still control the bike.


Reverse to dismount.


This is how I'm getting my 5'6" wife to mount/dismount. It works for us!

[Still Riding]

I pried off the staples that attach the seat cover to the plastic pan, leaving the ones near the front in place. I cut off 1/2" of foam and replaced it with same thickness gell pad I bought on ebay. I taped the gel in place and reattached the cover. Much better!


I replaced the stock rear sprocket with a JTR210 44 tooth from Denniskirk.com. For my needs this gearing is wonderful. You can put along at 35mph in 6th and still cruise 55mph at about 6000rpm. Haven't tried the new gearing in the dirt yet but I'm sure it will be fine.


I purchased an Oregon title and license plate today. Pretty sure the MCO and BOS stating "Motorcycle" had something to do with that.


Great machine!

[Still Riding]

Rear Shock Question:


There is a nut, perhaps 17mm?, that surrounds the shock compression clicker screw. On most shocks that look like this one this nut controls the high speed compression. Our owners manual makes no mention of this nut. I have zero experience with this type of shock so I want confirmation that this really is, or is not, the high speed compression adjustment before I start to move it. It is currently at the max clockwise position so if it isn't an adjustment screw...


Thanks in advance. The back end is a bit harsh and I'm a fairly light guy so I'm hoping this IS a high speed adjustment and I can soften it up.

[K'hermiit]

Originally Posted by Still Riding

Rear Shock Question:


There is a nut, perhaps 17mm?, that surrounds the shock compression clicker screw. On most shocks that look like this one this nut controls the high speed compression. Our owners manual makes no mention of this nut. I have zero experience with this type of shock so I want confirmation that this really is, or is not, the high speed compression adjustment before I start to move it. It is currently at the max clockwise position so if it isn't an adjustment screw...


Thanks in advance. The back end is a bit harsh and I'm a fairly light guy so I'm hoping this IS a high speed adjustment and I can soften it up.

I'm afraid they are regular compression/rebound adjustable only. Turning that big nut far enough will unseat the valve assembly and your nitrogen will leak out. Where is the compression clicker set now?

[Still Riding]

Thank you. I have the compression clicker as soft as possible. I'll make sure that nut is seated snugly. One of the reasons I was hopeful was because this nut was loose.

[Mikd]

KTM's, Beta's, and GasGas and everyone is checking out the Templar haha. We had a ride day and I let a buddy use the Templar for the day. He is now going to order one for some dualsport BDR stuff.

[CC-John]

Been busy adding a few more farkles while waiting for my plate to come in.. Added a set of Double Take adventure mirrors to replace the marginal stockers, installed a set of Tusk D-Flex Pro handguards with a set of BRP threaded handlebar inserts and Cycra handlebar clamp mounts. Installed a pair of Rox Racing BarBack handlebar riser blocks to lift the bars and bring them in a little for a more relaxed riding position. Also added a Giant Loop Buckin' Roll tank bag to keep essentials close at hand.

100_3342 by cc_john67, on Flickr

100_3340 by cc_john67, on Flickr

100_3341 by cc_john67, on Flickr

100_3343 by cc_john67, on Flickr