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#1846 |
Join Date: Jul 2024
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 40
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They're heavy gauge rotomolded polyethylene plastic on par with the eye wateringly expensive Pelican brand cases. I don't plan on hauling my cannonball collection so I think it will do just fine for it's intended purpose.
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CC-John "I void warranties" 2024 Templar 250 X 2018 Nissan Frontier (work truck) 2006 Ford F-150 Crew cab (play truck) 1973 Century Resorter 16 (Floating Muscle Car) |
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#1847 |
Join Date: Sep 2024
Location: South Georgia
Posts: 12
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That's fantastic, and thanks for advice on the lowering. I think that may push me in the direction of buying one.
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#1848 |
Join Date: Jul 2024
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 40
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Here's the thread that shows a bit more detail on modifying the rear shock on the Templar X's. While having a drill press makes doing this mod easier and more precise, it's not absolutely necessary. I went with drilling the "lowering" hole 3/4" center to center with the stock bolt hole and it gave me just about 2 1/2" of drop in seat height. That dimension also left enough "meat" between the two holes that I could return the bike back to stock height without worry of the shock fork failing.
https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=31860
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CC-John "I void warranties" 2024 Templar 250 X 2018 Nissan Frontier (work truck) 2006 Ford F-150 Crew cab (play truck) 1973 Century Resorter 16 (Floating Muscle Car) |
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#1849 | |
Join Date: Sep 2024
Location: South Georgia
Posts: 12
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Quote:
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#1850 | |
Join Date: Jul 2024
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 40
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Quote:
I cranked in just enough preload to remove all the static sag in the rear suspension. (the amount the suspensions sags with just the weight of the bike) The bike still has about 3" of sag when I park my 235 pounds on the seat. These bikes are setup with about 4" of sag from the factory based on a 150-180 pound rider.
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CC-John "I void warranties" 2024 Templar 250 X 2018 Nissan Frontier (work truck) 2006 Ford F-150 Crew cab (play truck) 1973 Century Resorter 16 (Floating Muscle Car) |
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#1851 | |
Join Date: Jun 2024
Posts: 53
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Quote:
I found mine just a little soft on the pre-load after I lowered. I did the same 3/4 as CC-John. I ended up putting about 4 or 5 turns on the lock ring to increase mine some. |
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#1852 |
Join Date: Aug 2024
Posts: 3
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I too drilled another hole in the shock, 3/4" on center from stock. I'm setting this bike up for my wife who is about 5'-6". I did not add any preload. I returned the forks to stock position because I did not like the quicker steering. Because we are only shortening the shock we aren't changing the geometry of the suspension. Yes? If yes, then no change to preload is required that wouldn't otherwise be needed.
I was wondering why all the comments about soft front end when mine is absolutely harsh. At speed, hitting a big hole or rock the forks are perfect (I weigh about 160) but the small stuff is positively jarring! Until I discovered my forks are labelled wrong. I should have just used my brain! Adjusters turned clockwise will increase the effect. My compression was set to max. All better now. It took quite a bit of lead but I was able to ballance the front wheel. Now it needs truing to get it round. I only have about 200 miles on the bike. So far the engine is getting smoother and more willing to rev each ride. Softening the seat is next. I spent 2 hours riding in the woods yesterday and my butt was sore! |
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