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#1816 |
Join Date: Jul 2024
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 30
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Been pecking away at the bike for the past few evenings, there's not a bolt that hasn't been checked or loctited. The carburetor has been relieved of all it's tamperproof crap, just waiting on my jet kit to get here so I can fatten it up a bit. The jets were supposed to be delivered Friday, but are currently lost in the USPS vortex..
![]() I pondered how to deal with the rear light wiring that runs exposed under the fender. My OCD would never allow me to secure it with gorilla tape or drill holes in the plastics for zip ties, so I came up with my own approach after studying the situation over a few beers.. Made a cardboard pattern of a nice bracket that would mount under the bolt that secures the rear rack. Took the pattern out to the garage and pulled a small piece of 1/16" thick aluminum sheet from my scrap pile, transferred the pattern and fired up the plasma cutter and had a bracket blank in less than 5 minutes. A bit of hammer work shaping it over a steel rod, dressed the edges with a grinder, and drilled a hole to mount it, then went in for a test fit on the bike. ![]() ![]() Gave it a coat of Zinc Chromate primer, and a couple coats of semi-gloss Rustoleum and it was ready for final installation. All the plug connectors were shot full of LPS 3 anti corrosion coating and everything placed in split loom. Don't think I'll be having any issues with the rear light wiring for a while. ![]() ![]() ![]() Broke out the roll of gasket material and cut a gasket for the intake manifold as I've never been too keen on those molded rubber manifolds. That little bead of rubber that they leave "proud" of the flange surface always seems to end up leaking over time.. ![]() During the wire harness inspection and cleanup, I cut over 14" extra inches of wire off the solenoid to starter wire. The extra was just looped over the harness and secured with zipties. ![]() ![]() Hoping my MSO/BOS will show up early next week so I can start the ball rolling on getting it insured, inspected, and registered..
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CC-John "I void warranties" 2024 Templar 250 X 2018 Nissan Frontier (work truck) 2006 Ford F-150 Crew cab (play truck) 1973 Century Resorter 16 (Floating Muscle Car) |
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#1817 |
Join Date: Jul 2024
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 30
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I found a new use for a long neglected tool I've had since the days of when you could still buy a new car or truck with a carburetor. My old Thexton #358 GM Idle Mixture Adjusting Tool is just the ticket for easily adjusting the the now liberated idle mixture needle in my Templar. A quick Google search shows these tools are still floating around.
The tool is just a short length of speedometer cable with a small hex bit on one end for some Ford carburetors, a small slotted bit on the other for GM carburetors, with a sliding "handle" between them. ![]() I had to slightly file down the width of the "GM" bit to fit the narrower head in the YouAll carburetor, but the shoulder pilots perfectly in the anti-tamper plug bore just like it did on automotive carburetors to keep the bit squarely aligned with the needle. ![]() And now for the "Money Shot"! ![]() ![]() Needless to say, this tool has found a new permanent home in my motorcycle tool box.. ![]()
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CC-John "I void warranties" 2024 Templar 250 X 2018 Nissan Frontier (work truck) 2006 Ford F-150 Crew cab (play truck) 1973 Century Resorter 16 (Floating Muscle Car) |
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#1818 |
Join Date: Jun 2024
Posts: 49
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yeah, I like that carb tool, nice.
Do you have a link to the jet kit you purchased for the stock carb? I wanting to do the same to mine this winter. |
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#1819 | |
Join Date: Jul 2024
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 30
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Quote:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/33452758499...MAAOSwNu1kuj7I You can use a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to cut a slot in the head of the bowl screws to remove them. I could see traces of Loctite on my bowl screws so I took a propane torch and heated the carb body at the screw boss to soften the threadlocker and the screws just backed right out. Doesn't take much heat, the carb didn't get any hotter than it would on a hot running engine.
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CC-John "I void warranties" 2024 Templar 250 X 2018 Nissan Frontier (work truck) 2006 Ford F-150 Crew cab (play truck) 1973 Century Resorter 16 (Floating Muscle Car) |
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#1821 |
Join Date: Jun 2024
Posts: 49
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Took about 105g to get it right with the rim locks on...
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#1822 |
Join Date: Jul 2024
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 30
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Got my Kenda K760's mounted up and balanced yesterday. After stripping the OEM tires, tubes, and rim strips off the wheels, I went over all the spokes with a spoke torque wrench, and used a Dremel with a round grinding stone to remove some nasty burrs on the heads of some of the spoke nipples. Surprisingly, both bare wheels had close to a 10 gram imbalance when placed on the balancer.
Popped the plugs in the old rim lock holes, installed new rim strips and heavy duty tubes with the Kendas, then put them on the balancer. I ordered a few strips of black 5 gram stick on weights to balance the wheels. A couple shots of the new street sneakers.. ![]() ![]() The front wheel took 30 grams of weight to balance. ![]() The rear wheel took 25 grams of weight to balance. ![]()
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CC-John "I void warranties" 2024 Templar 250 X 2018 Nissan Frontier (work truck) 2006 Ford F-150 Crew cab (play truck) 1973 Century Resorter 16 (Floating Muscle Car) |
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#1823 |
Join Date: Jun 2023
Location: Big Piney, WY
Posts: 543
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Nice work on that wire management, CC-John, and great pics!
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2023 Hawk 250 from XPRO off of Amazon MOUNTAIN MAN RC + MOTO on YouTube "If there were more bloody noses, there would be less wars." - Hagbard Celine "Someday, after mastering the waves, the winds, the tides and gravity, we shall harness for God the energies of love and then, for the second time in the history of the world, man will have discovered fire." - Pierre Teilhard de Chardin |
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#1824 |
Join Date: May 2024
Location: Wenatchee, WA
Posts: 3
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I've had my 2024 Templar X for about two months and I believe my starter is shot. I'm wondering if any one knows how to remove it? I removed the two bolts on the side with the power wire. See photo. Then I saw on the other side of the bike that there are two bolts. I was easily able to remove one but the other is tucked in behind part of the engine. See photo. I searched the forum for quite awhile to try and find an answer but had no luck so my apologies if this has already been discussed.
Thanks for the help |
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#1825 | |
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 2,570
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Quote:
The other two are long bolts that hold the starter itself together. No need to take those out to remove the starter. Once you have starter out, you can open it up by removing those long bolts for troubleshooting.
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-NOS 2020 KTM 250SX (2-stroke motocross) |
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#1826 |
Join Date: Jun 2024
Posts: 49
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CC-John, what size rear Kenda did you go with? Looks like I only have about another 500 miles left on the Dunlop I put on and thought about going with the Kenda for the next one...
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#1827 | |
Join Date: Jul 2024
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 30
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Quote:
Rocky Mountain ATV/MC has a couple of good charts that helps convert the metric tire sizes to other measurements. https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/l...Bike-Tire-Info https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/l/ADV-Tire-Info
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CC-John "I void warranties" 2024 Templar 250 X 2018 Nissan Frontier (work truck) 2006 Ford F-150 Crew cab (play truck) 1973 Century Resorter 16 (Floating Muscle Car) |
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#1828 | |
Join Date: May 2024
Location: Wenatchee, WA
Posts: 3
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