New Zongshen RX3 (ZS250GY-3) Dual Sport

[SpudRider]

If I can find the front hub for sale at Taobao, we could order extra hubs from China. Then we could lace domestic, alloy rims with Buchanan's custom spokes to the Taobao hubs. This would allow us to keep the stock, 18-inch front wheel as a spare, instead of dismantling the wheel to use the stock hub to build another custom wheel.

[Wolftrax]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

If I can find the front hub for sale at Taobao, we could order extra hubs from China. Then we could lace domestic, alloy rims with Buchanan's custom spokes to the Taobao hubs. This would allow us to keep the stock, 18-inch front wheel as a spare, instead of dismantling the wheel to use the stock hub to build another custom wheel.

This was what I was hoping for. Keeping the original and then build a 21" wheel from another hub. I'm tempted to do it my self but may take you up on your offer to build me one.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by Wolftrax

This was what I was hoping for. Keeping the original and then build a 21" wheel from another hub. I'm tempted to do it my self but may take you up on your offer to build me one.

I have searched, but I can't find the RX3 front hub for sale. I wonder if the Zongshen ZS150GY-10 employs the same front hub? The hubs don't cost much, and the shipping weight is low.

Buchanan's custom spokes cost about $110, delivered. A 21-inch alloy rim costs about $100, delivered, from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC.

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by Wolftrax

This was what I was hoping for. Keeping the original and then build a 21" wheel from another hub. I'm tempted to do it my self but may take you up on your offer to build me one.

If you have the time and no distractions, it can be an interesting experience. Trouble appears when you're trying to lace a used rim to a hub, and you can't work the wobble out. Ask me how I know.

A decent truing stand isn't very costly, and you can even get fancy with a HF dial indicator and magnetic base, although I haven't found that to be necessary.

[SpudRider]

FTEY,

Thanks for posting the photographs of your KTN RS3. I see you got the stainless steel, exhaust header and the new headlight.

Did you get forks with rebound adjustment? Did you get a rear hub with a cushion drive? If you have time, please post photos of the left side of your rear wheel, and the tops of the forks.

[FTEY]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

FTEY,

Thanks for posting the photographs of your KTN RS3. I see you got the stainless steel, exhaust header and the new headlight.

Did you get forks with rebound adjustment? Did you get a rear hub with a cushion drive? If you have time, please post photos of the left side of your rear wheel, and the tops of the forks.

Not sure abt those. I will get more photos. Btw the malaysian version is on carb. Anyway, my cold start needs lots of time on the start button n throttle before it would get going. Is that normal or is it because the engine is still new?

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by FTEY

Not sure abt those. I will get more photos. Btw the malaysian version is on carb. Anyway, my cold start needs lots of time on the start button n throttle before it would get going. Is that normal or is it because the engine is still new?

Please do post more photos.

Our bikes are fuel injected, and we haven't received them yet. Therefore, I don't know much about your carburetor. However, I think it's possible the pilot jet of your carburetor is a little too small. You might want to try the next largest size of pilot jet, and see if helps. You might also want to try adjusting the pilot mixture screw on the carburetor.

[thillskier]

With a thousand or more miles on it, the rings seat and tolerances tighten up a bit (in cylinder/combustion chamber area) which will allow a bit more vacuum and also resultant compression increases. Usually that will help atomize the fuel a bit better as it will have faster air moving through carb (and over fuel jets and fuel metering needle) giving you a bit more turbulence there in the carb and intake passages, which makes a more uniform air fuel ratio, burning more completely/easier ignition, more complete burn = faster warm ups and less stumbling, etc.
I generally wait to rejet carbs until after break in due to this situation.
Spuds ideas re fuel screw adjusting and other carb fettling is a good idea anytime, because its easily changable when/if other parameters in the engine change for whatever reason. (free flow exhaust, or air cleaner, egr and or cat converter removal, etc.)

[thillskier]

Oh, what a great thing those adjustable idle screws are (elsewhere) and used to be here in USA.
Most carbs (all I've ever seen in YEARS here in USA) on any engines bigger than 50cc (exempted engines), have the covers glued or otherwise attached permanently to the carbs so one cannot adjust the low speed (or high speeds) air mixtures! Thats supposedly for EPA, ut a stumbling stalling engine HAS to be putting out unburned HC's, in larger amounts, I'd think than if it was running correctly.
Thats why most engines are efi'ed today. The multihole injectors atomize fuel very well, and can then be run extremely lean, without issue. STarts cleanly, though the ecu allows a bit extra fuel until water temps get to operational temps. Thats also why efi'ed bikes get the terriffic mpg. 70 efi'ed vs 45-50 carbed (like KLx 250 Kawasaki (carbed) vs Yamaha or Honda 250 ds.(efi'ed)

[FTEY]

Originally Posted by thillskier

With a thousand or more miles on it, the rings seat and tolerances tighten up a bit (in cylinder/combustion chamber area) which will allow a bit more vacuum and also resultant compression increases. Usually that will help atomize the fuel a bit better as it will have faster air moving through carb (and over fuel jets and fuel metering needle) giving you a bit more turbulence there in the carb and intake passages, which makes a more uniform air fuel ratio, burning more completely/easier ignition, more complete burn = faster warm ups and less stumbling, etc.
I generally wait to rejet carbs until after break in due to this situation.
Spuds ideas re fuel screw adjusting and other carb fettling is a good idea anytime, because its easily changable when/if other parameters in the engine change for whatever reason. (free flow exhaust, or air cleaner, egr and or cat converter removal, etc.)

Very informative there.... Thanks thillskier....

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

Please do post more photos.

Our bikes are fuel injected, and we haven't received them yet. Therefore, I don't know much about your carburetor. However, I think it's possible the pilot jet of your carburetor is a little too small. You might want to try the next largest size of pilot jet, and see if helps. You might also want to try adjusting the pilot mixture screw on the carburetor.

I agree. If the slow jet is too small, you can have trouble starting a bike, especially if it is cold outside or you're near sea level. Try backing the pilot mixture screw out 1/2 turn, and see if that helps.

[SpudRider]

FTEY,

Thank you for posting the additional photographs of the rear wheel.

I believe the fuel tank does hold 16 liters, but the fuel gauge is configured to show empty when 4 liters remain in the tank. This configuration is designed to protect the fuel pump for bikes that have fuel injection. If the fuel level goes below 4 liters, the fuel pump is not cooled by immersion in fuel, and it will overheat, shortening its lifespan.

[SpudRider]

The CSC Blog reports our Zongshen RX3 motorcycles are loaded on the Hanjin container vessel Germany, which is currently taking on more cargo in Pusan, South Korea.





Joe reports the vessel is scheduled to "arrive in Long Beach on the 6th of March. Due to the current labor unrest roiling our coast, the berthing date is currently scheduled to be on the 23rd of March."

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

The CSC Blog reports our Zongshen RX3 motorcycles are loaded on the Hanjin container vessel Germany, which is currently taking on more cargo in Pusan, South Korea.

Joe reports the vessel is scheduled to "arrive in Long Beach on the 6th of March. Due to the current labor unrest roiling our coast, the berthing date is currently scheduled to be on the 23rd of March."

Ugh, another month. I'm not even able to buy one of these bikes, and I'm getting antsy!

Please Lord, allow the ship to travel safely to Long Beach. Amen.

[SpudRider]

A tentative, 5-year contract has been negotiated with the West Coast dockworkers.