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#136 | |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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Re: hi
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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#137 | |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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Quote:
__________________
Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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#138 | ||
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Surrey, B.C., Canada
Posts: 2,185
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This is where I can share my experiences with you! ![]() I bought a 110cc Mini Beast for my daughter, then a 50cc Mini ATV for my other daughter, and my in-laws subsequently bought a 110cc Mini Hummer for my nephew. I have experience twisting wrench and troubleshooting on all three of these machines. (I won't even bring up putting together additional 50 and 110cc for others.. ) The Mini ATV, the Mini Beast and the Mini Hummer are all very similar in size. The main difference you will find is in the tire size of the mini atv. The Mini Beast and the Mini Hummer have larger tires, therefore providing greater ground clearance. The mini atv, combined with its smaller tires and a god awful frame mount underneath, has very little ground clearance. It is fine on flat ground, but if there are any rocks or bumps, look out. The Mini Hummer and the Mini ATV, share similarities in design, specifically the front shocks, 'c' brackets, steering. The Mini Beast on the other hand has 'A' Arms and King Pins on the front. All three units are vitually the same length. There is a sticky in ATV section of me putting a mini atv together. If you search in ride reports for "Pemberton" you will see some photos of my kids riding their quads, and I think their might be one of both in the picture, for a size comparison. (Can't remember) Now, since this is a 'new' model, it may well be bigger than the former 50cc, but from the pictures it looks identical to my mini 50cc, like waynev says. Probably should stop hijacking your beast thread on the little ones. |
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#139 |
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: London, Ontario
Posts: 1,097
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No PCD i'm not a gio dealer, i just have a bad auction addicition, i'm looking into AA ( auction anonymous ), it started with a 50cc for my son, then i wanted to get the 110cc T1 Rebel so i could ride around with him, daddy was getting tired of running behind him holding on to the tether, i then installed the remote stop/start on his 50cc and mounted the remote on my T1's master brake cylinder, works great, only problem was the 110cc was a bit small for me and quite uncomfortable, so i then got a 200cc beast and that fit much better, my girlfriend fits better on the T1 and is enjoying riding it so i guess i'll be keeping it. I also have 2 of the 49cc pocket dirt bikes and have won lots of spare parts for all my toys, my friend also liked the pocket bikes and i ended up winning 5 of those for him, as i said to W&G, my garage is now full so i better stop buying stuff soon, only a few more spare parts to go, and maybe a few other things if the price is right.
Come on UNI, can't wait to ride tomorrow. |
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#140 | ||
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Newmarket On Canada
Posts: 382
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Good, Fast, or Cheap....Pick Two. |
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#141 | |
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Newmarket On Canada
Posts: 382
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Quote:
Pete
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Good, Fast, or Cheap....Pick Two. |
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#142 |
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 119
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beast complete
I have had the beast for 2 days now and hope to have it done for Saturday. It arrived intact, complete and it is very sturdy. I am pleased.
The pivots brackets for the front suspension were bent in as PCD described. Anyone may like to know I shimmed mine and found 2 very thin SS washers worked great. 5/8" inside d by 1 1/8" outside diameter. Its an odd size and I can give a part # and source if anyone wants it. This size allows the inside sleeve of the bushing to sit inside the washer which allows for compression from the bolt to bear only...mostly... on the housing. I went to Can Tire and asked for the NGK DR8E. The guy said all he could get was a DR8EIX and suggested that was probably a very different plug. Quoted $12.99 and did not know if that was a 2 pack. Anyone help with this? |
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#143 | |
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Surrey, B.C., Canada
Posts: 2,185
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Re: beast complete
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I would hit up a local autoparts store. Can't remember what part of the country you're in but I find Lordco in BC is the best pricewise for me. When I went for a plug, he did not have that one in stock, but had an autolite instead. I didn't realize at the time there was a brand new NGK in the machine, so I haven't tried the Autolite yet. I can give you that part number too if you're in a rush. I think I paid $3.50 for one Autolite plug. Let me know if you need the number. |
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#144 | |
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Newmarket On Canada
Posts: 382
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Re: beast complete
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They come 2 to a blister pack and "look" like car plugs but are not. Neat link http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/SparkPlugFAQ.htm
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Good, Fast, or Cheap....Pick Two. |
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#145 |
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 119
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plug
Thx for the offer but I will find a cross ref chart here somewhere. The ix stands for Iridium Core. The actual plug number is DR8ES. I'm sure its posted here somewhere with-out that last letter. It threw me. thx
wayne |
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#146 |
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: London, Ontario
Posts: 1,097
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Yeah i got my NGK plugs at canadian tire, DR8ES-L and canadian tire part # 018-3928-6, i think they were $6.99 or $7.99 for a two pack.
Got my beast case mounted properly tonight, i used the 1/2" water pipe insulation on the back, sides and bottom to hold it better and help with vibration, those pesky clamps don't fully tighten on the rack bars, but to make the case solid and clamp down properly i ended up using a couple of pcs of .024" aluminum sheet ( fascia stuff ) then bended them around the bar and slid them inside of the tube clamps, this make them solid and they now will not move when fully tightened. Got my UNI filter on tonight too, it's still a tight fit but should work, i think i got too much oil on it though so i'll let it drain off til tomorrow and give it another go. I've comtemplated moving the battery box futher back to allow for a proper filter, or even moving it near the front, since there's so much space to make a new battery box, we'll see. |
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#147 |
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 119
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thx
I appreciate the stock number. I will get one tomorrow. I was also going on a hunt for this filter...but you are saying you are not that pleased with the fit?
I notice you have bid quite often on the site and I feel i need to disclose we have butted heads once or twice. My Gio user name is 'cerlman'. I can't recall outbidding you but may have cost you a couple of bucks and if your ears were burning once.......that was me cussing at my laptop......sorry....waynec |
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#148 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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waynec,
Can you post a photo of how you shimmed (what I presume to be) the control arms?
__________________
Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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#149 | |
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: London, Ontario
Posts: 1,097
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Re: thx
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The filter is still quite a tight fit and the foam gets really compressed on the one side, i'm either going to relocate the battery box or remove the intake manifold and remove 3/4" - 1" of it as it looks like theres room to move the carb futher forward, i'll check the material first, if it's good aluminum i'll just cut out a part and TIG weld it back together. |
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#150 | |
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Newmarket On Canada
Posts: 382
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Quote:
Shortening the intake isnt a bad idea, only thing you would have to do is modify cable length, fuel hose length, and move the solenoid. Mine hangs right about where the side of the carb would be if you moved it. good idea really. pete
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Good, Fast, or Cheap....Pick Two. |
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