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Old 08-09-2009, 04:43 PM   #31
eflyersteve   eflyersteve is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 44
Well the new fender supports are built. I went a different route. I had planned to use some flat aluminum and add rubber isolators, but went with some 1/2" square steel tube. The bends on the aluminum flat would likely flex and fatigue over time. The box was easy to cut and weld bends to match the old pieces.

They seem to be really stout. Perhaps too stout - now I'm worried about breaking the mounts off the frame, but hopefully the fenders will flex and give enough. We'll see what the next weakest link in the chain is

Photo of old (bottom) and new (top)



 
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Old 09-03-2009, 12:46 PM   #32
eflyersteve   eflyersteve is offline
 
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Update:

The 250T is still doing good. The failures to date are:

Coolant temperature sensor - I added in a switch so that we can turn the fan on manually when riding. I actually installed the switch before the sensor went bad.

Chain - This is partially my fault, partially V-Bike's. The chain was tight as a drum when we first got it and I didn't adjust. By the time it got slack, it was in pretty bad shape. I also have a tendency to wash the ATV a lot and only oil the chain once a week. I've installed a new chain and am keeping an eye on it.

Body - due to a wreck. Replaced with new (about $140 total including shipping)

Front body mounts - see previous post. These were probably stressed in the wreck, but the new ones that I built are holding strong.

I'm pretty impressed with it so far. Mainly because I feared that it would be a total turd. It's got enough power and seems to be making more as it breaks in. I'm slowly getting the handling dialed in by decreasing the tire pressure to about 2.5psi and the front shocks to 5psi. I'll get rear wheel spacers soon. I am turned off by the small gas tank size however. My son really can't get more than 15-20 miles out of a tank of gas (estimated). I think it's about a 1.5 gallon tank. The only weld that has broken was on the engine skid plate. I've since re-welded and added some more welds and it's holding good.


 
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Old 09-03-2009, 01:46 PM   #33
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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Do you have a temp guage? It might be wise to install one, and show your son the point where he should switch the fan on. You could pick up a small capillary-style mechanical guage for cheap, and tee off of the sensor fitting.
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Old 09-03-2009, 05:40 PM   #34
eflyersteve   eflyersteve is offline
 
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I thought about that - there is a temperature sending unit installed in the head but it's electrical 'stud' isn't attached to anything. I wonder what temperature gauge would work with it.

He turns the fan on every time he rides so at least we are sure it'll stay cool. But I know I'm not doing the fan any favors. The temperature sensor that switches the fan on and off looks like an automotive unit. It's screwed into the bottom of the radiator. I'll probably pull it and take it to a auto parts store and see if they can replace it with a better quality unit. While I have it out, I might see about adding the 'T' and a generic temperature gauge or perhaps a secondary temperature sensor.


 
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Old 09-03-2009, 05:51 PM   #35
Reveeen   Reveeen is offline
 
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I wonder what temperature gauge would work with it.

There used to be air cooled VW kits available.


 
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Old 09-03-2009, 09:29 PM   #36
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eflyersteve
I thought about that - there is a temperature sending unit installed in the head but it's electrical 'stud' isn't attached to anything. I wonder what temperature gauge would work with it.

He turns the fan on every time he rides so at least we are sure it'll stay cool. But I know I'm not doing the fan any favors. The temperature sensor that switches the fan on and off looks like an automotive unit. It's screwed into the bottom of the radiator. I'll probably pull it and take it to a auto parts store and see if they can replace it with a better quality unit. While I have it out, I might see about adding the 'T' and a generic temperature gauge or perhaps a secondary temperature sensor.
Try measuring between the stud and ground with an ohmmeter when cold, and compare it with a hot measurement. I'm betting that an electric temp guage could use the existing sensor. You could always stick with a mechanical guage if you prefer.

Regarding the sensor, it would be a good idea to have a bypass switch even if the sensor is functional, because you never know when it might go south.
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