Air Filter - Recommend Changes - Page 3

Weldangrind · 08-20-2009, 12:32 PM

Assuming you're not teasing me, the clip is within the slider that you so love to remove and reinstall.

Upon removing the slider, you'll see the jet needle sticking out of the bottom. Carefully compress the spring in the slider, remove the throttle cable and spring, and the slider / needle assembly will be free. Remove the needle from the slider (there's usually a small spring clip inside the slider that holds the needle in place). Note that the needle has a circlip on it in one of five grooves.

The needle controls fuel flow, and it is pulled up out of a jet each time you open the throttle. If you move the clip up, the needle will not pull out of the jet as far, creating a leaner mixture. If you move the clip down, you will pull the needle further out of the jet, creating a richer mixture. Simple, no?

That's why I said that the mixture screw is only for idle and tip-in. As soon as you open the throttle, the slider needle uncovers the jet.

TurboT · 08-20-2009, 03:29 PM

Not really teasing you.

Lots of experience here with internal motors but never did much carb work, and no experience with atv's or motorcyles until recently.

I get how all that works.. and I always appreciate your articulate explanations.

Weldangrind · 08-20-2009, 10:30 PM

Anytime. I'll add that after you move the clip, you should re-tune the air / fuel screw. I shoot for little or no bog when the throttle is opened quickly. From there, I fine tune to the highest rpm at that specific idle setting. The highest rpm typically indicates the ideal air / fuel ratio.

cameron88 · 08-21-2009, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Assuming you're not teasing me, the clip is within the slider that you so love to remove and reinstall.

Upon removing the slider, you'll see the jet needle sticking out of the bottom. Carefully compress the spring in the slider, remove the throttle cable and spring, and the slider / needle assembly will be free. Remove the needle from the slider (there's usually a small spring clip inside the slider that holds the needle in place). Note that the needle has a circlip on it in one of five grooves.

The needle controls fuel flow, and it is pulled up out of a jet each time you open the throttle. If you move the clip up, the needle will not pull out of the jet as far, creating a leaner mixture. If you move the clip down, you will pull the needle further out of the jet, creating a richer mixture. Simple, no?

That's why I said that the mixture screw is only for idle and tip-in. As soon as you open the throttle, the slider needle uncovers the jet.

Awsome Pick W&G this helps me with my snorkel breathing issue as I was a bit unsure about the needle and clip you spoke of.

Thanks again
Cameron

Weldangrind · 08-21-2009, 08:17 PM

You're welcome. I found it at www.javacycles.com

08-20-2009, 12:32 PM	#31
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Assuming you're not teasing me, the clip is within the slider that you so love to remove and reinstall. Upon removing the slider, you'll see the jet needle sticking out of the bottom. Carefully compress the spring in the slider, remove the throttle cable and spring, and the slider / needle assembly will be free. Remove the needle from the slider (there's usually a small spring clip inside the slider that holds the needle in place). Note that the needle has a circlip on it in one of five grooves. The needle controls fuel flow, and it is pulled up out of a jet each time you open the throttle. If you move the clip up, the needle will not pull out of the jet as far, creating a leaner mixture. If you move the clip down, you will pull the needle further out of the jet, creating a richer mixture. Simple, no? That's why I said that the mixture screw is only for idle and tip-in. As soon as you open the throttle, the slider needle uncovers the jet. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

08-20-2009, 10:30 PM	#33
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Anytime. I'll add that after you move the clip, you should re-tune the air / fuel screw. I shoot for little or no bog when the throttle is opened quickly. From there, I fine tune to the highest rpm at that specific idle setting. The highest rpm typically indicates the ideal air / fuel ratio. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

08-21-2009, 08:17 PM	#35
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	You're welcome. I found it at www.javacycles.com __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

08-20-2009, 03:29 PM	#32
TurboT Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Surrey, B.C., Canada Posts: 2,185	Not really teasing you. Lots of experience here with internal motors but never did much carb work, and no experience with atv's or motorcyles until recently. I get how all that works.. and I always appreciate your articulate explanations.
	0