05-19-2009, 05:21 PM | #1 |
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 330
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110cc Mini Beast
I just bought a 110cc mini beast, and it will be coming soon. I have everything ready including fuel lines, blue loctite, fuel filter and fuel shut off. I just wanted to know what is the spark plug model number and what else I needed to know. Also what type of oil will I have to change it too.
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05-19-2009, 05:54 PM | #2 |
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Gijon, Asturias,Northern Spain
Posts: 396
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Spark plug, NGK C7HSA or ND (Nippon Denso) U22FS-U, gapped 0.6-0.7 mm.
Oil, mineral or semi-synthetic 10w-40 usually.
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05-26-2009, 03:29 AM | #3 |
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Surrey, B.C., Canada
Posts: 2,185
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Holy hog wild with the fuel filter, shut off and new lines. You are ambitious!
I put MotoMaster Diesel 15-40 in mine, I belive that's the weight the crap ass manual that came with it said to use. It's been running fine and hasn't puked yet so must be alright. My brother in law tells me he runs diesel weight oil in everything he owns, as if it hadn't specifically said I probably would have put 5-30 in the thing. I'm curious about why you chose blue loctite? I used red myself, always have with everything I've ever worked on. Not that you are wrong and I'm right I'm just curious if blue is better for the QUADS. What color did you buy? Have fun with those damn fenders on the footpegs those things irritate me, they don't stay on right. I'm also curious to hear how you make out with the rear axel and if it tightens up when you put the wheel on, and how much room you have between the cotter pin and castelated nut.... Keep me posted! |
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05-28-2009, 05:43 PM | #4 |
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 330
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Wow, those foot fenders were soooo annoying. It would not even stay on right. I got so pissed off. I had to cut a piece off of it in order to put it on. Also one screw at the side would not go in since it was not aligned. I just said forget about that screw.
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05-28-2009, 06:17 PM | #5 |
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Surrey, B.C., Canada
Posts: 2,185
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Turnburn's advice was good there. I took the plastic off the frames, put the frames on then screwed the plastic back on. I did need to bend one of those into the flange to make it go on as well, however the plastic didn't line up right either. It wants to crawl over the peg all the time. I left it like that myself.
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05-28-2009, 07:40 PM | #6 |
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 330
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I got them to screw in but the fenders were overlapping on the foot pegs so I had to cut them.
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06-08-2009, 01:20 AM | #7 |
Join Date: May 2009
Location: SASKATOON
Posts: 1,161
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BLUE LOCK TIGHT
The reason to use the blue stuff is .. on items where you may want to remove the bolt or screw.. at some time... it will let you remove it... the RED stuff.. usually is a bugger to try to remove the part once you use the RED locktight.. if you want to release the locktight.. ( if the bolt will not come undone.,.. use alittle heat... this causes the lock tight to becoem a liquid again and then the bolt will come loose..
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06-08-2009, 03:05 AM | #8 |
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Surrey, B.C., Canada
Posts: 2,185
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I always thought loctite was there to keep the bolt from coming off!
I've used a lot of red loctite in my life, and yes, heat will 'melt' and loosen it up. I felt better with the red on the wheel nuts and 'studs' just because my fear of watching a wheel fly off on something I installed while my little girl was riding it is something I don't want to witness... just felt better about it. Blue probably holds it on fine as well, along with the pit bent through it! ..but I'm over protective and a bit nuts anyhow. |
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