Today, 02:40 AM | #46 |
Join Date: Jun 2023
Location: Big Piney, WY
Posts: 623
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Nice. A carbed version for the price of a Hawk? NOW WE'RE TALKIN'!
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2023 Hawk 250 from XPRO off of Amazon MOUNTAIN MAN RC + MOTO on YouTube "If there were more bloody noses, there would be less wars." - Hagbard Celine John 2:15 So He made a whip out of cords and drove all from the temple area, both sheep and cattle; He scattered the coins of the money changers and overturned their tables. |
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Today, 04:51 AM | #47 |
Join Date: May 2024
Location: Florida
Posts: 138
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https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805844995910.html?
These axle spacers fit. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805629522561.html? This caliper and bracket fit, copy of a Brembo rear caliper(KTM 54813080101, 26mm piston). Can use Brembo pads. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805670029956.html? These pads fit the rear caliper linked above. Front pads fit KTM 59013015144 28mm front caliper. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805906043314.html? This guard fits the Paladin rear axle, use the caliper linked above or a Brembo unit. The OE caliper will not fit. The OE rear brake disk DOES NOT clear the Brembo caliper. There is 0.5mm(not even) clearance issue between the brake rotor wave and the top of the caliper body. You have to use a KTM disk or a copy without the high wave ridges. Use KTM 59013015144 for a front caliper if you want dual 28mm pistons or buy a clone off of eBay/Aliexpress. Larger pistons than OE caliper. Use KTM 54813080101 for a rear caliper(or clone), you will need the axle carrier. OE caliper carrier DOES NOT fit this caliper. OE Paladin rear caliper is like a mix of all the wrong parts, nothing interchanges with KTM or KTM clone parts and accessories. I don't really understand why they went with it. You will have to go through Xpro for replacement parts. To sum it up, Chinese KTM clone calipers are a great budget alternative to the real thing unless you want that logo. There are other KTM front calipers that will fit but use smaller pistons, why would you want to do that? https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255801157270987.html Fits OE air filter https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806790733909.html Engine gasket set, comes labeled as KLX300 on the package. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807520578891.html If you want to throw yourself over the bars. I have a slipper clutch on order, I have seen people confirm that it fits the KLX and the Voge. More on that in the future. KTM rear brake pedal tips WILL NOT fit, the angle is off. Last edited by Mumen Rider; Today at 08:13 PM. |
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Today, 07:21 PM | #48 |
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 2,759
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I removed the tank and pulled the fuel pump (posted elsewhere), but I wanted to check the valve adjustment and put a new spark plug in there.
I had a hard time extracting the spark plug from the recess once I loosened it. My spark plug socket couldn't hold onto it, so I went ahead and removed the valve cover (4x 5mm allen bolts). You have to remove the engine mounting bracket to get the valve cover out, but it is easy-just remove those three bolts. The cam sprockets are on the right, so I brought the valve cover out on the right side. Seemed it would be easier. There is no TDC or timing mark (T or F) on the harmonic balancer (rotor), but you need to expose the 17mm nut that holds it on to rotate the engine to get the lobes in the right place for checking the gap between the cam lobe and cam follower. Valve adjustment involves replacing the shims (4-one for each valve) as needed after measuring the gap. There are marks on the cam sprockets that you line up level with the top edge of the head (flat) and then check those two valves. So, here I lined up the intake cam sprocket: The cam lobe is in position for checking the gap. You write these values down (left intake valve gap, right intake valve gap), do the same for the exhaust cam lobe gaps, left and right, then you actually have to remove the cam shaft cradle (8 bolts) if you need to adjust them! These should be pretty stable and if you are within the tolerance range, no need to change any shims. Here is what it looks like on the Exhaust can sprocket. The cam lobe is obscured by the centrifugal advancemechanism on the left end of the exhaust cam, but you can easily get the feeler gauge under the cam lobes to get a reading. Here is what I found: Exhaust shim/cam clearance at ~40 miles (0.15mm to 0.25mm range): Both right and left 0.008” (0.229 mm) fits snug (left maybe slightly tighter) intake shim/cam clearance at ~40 miles (0.1mm to 0.2mm range): right 0.005” (0.127 mm) clearance Left 0.006” (0.152 mm) clearance So my Exhaust valves are a little on the broad side, but within tolerance, and new valves can set in and the gaps can shrink as they wear in, so this is OK. Intake valves are also well within the acceptable range. Here is a link to a video where I got the gap tolerance range Here is te is the spark plug. It was obviously too sooty, so I am wondering if the temperature sensor is not working. There is also a, altitude sensing method (atmospheric pressure?). That sensor could be off or failing. I need to do some more research on this EFI system. That crapping out might be too much gas, especially at low rpm (won't idle). It was a Torch B8RC. I replaced it with a NGK CR8E.
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No matter where you go, there you are |
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Today, 07:47 PM | #49 |
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 59
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Great write up on the valves. Thanks! Hopefully that plug improves the idling/misfiring situation. I'll probably change mine out soon as well. I'll post what it looks like when I remove it. Mine hasn't stalled lately; however, it does hesitate momentarily here and there if I increase throttle quickly.
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