2024 Templar 250 Base Model Review

[tknj99]

This thread will be used to document my review of the Xpro Templar 250 (base model - not the M/X) that I have purchased for my 15 yo daughter to continue her riding journey.

Decision Process: I had bought an Xpro Storm DLX 150 for my daughter about 6 months ago that she learned on. Now that she has gotten proficient at riding, its time to upgrade. This bike will also be shared with my son so that he can join me on off-road trips

Cost: $1850 shipped to Virginia

Make/Model: DB-K012. This is basically the Titan DLX with the Zongshen overhead cam 19hp 5-speed engine fitted.

MCO: will confirm that i order/receive the MCO saying "motorcycle"

Ordering: I purchased from powersportsmax.com

Estimated delivery time: 1 week

Maintenance Plans: loctite as much as possible during the build, cover any exposed wiring, oil change, valve adjust, drill and cotter pin both axles

Mod Plans: as with all China bikes, im sure i will need to re-jet the carb but thats tbd for now. I may also re-gear if needed

[tknj99]

Update: arrived today (R&L) in perfect condition, wrapped nicely around the cardboard/metal frame with everything secured with zip ties and straps. This is the second shipment out of 4 to date, with the last being the Storm 150 that has been flawless with no issues.. i think the chances are much better than in the past that deliveries are becoming uneventful thankfully.

MC: says "motorcycle" with Make: ZUMA Model: K5-CB250F

Build plans: lube axles, wheel bearings, swingarm, disassemble neck to lube steering stem bearings, locktite necessary bolts, balance wheels

Add-ons to install: bark busters, 14T front sprocket (after grinding down the cover as needed for fitment)

[tknj99]

Started the build.. I inspected the steering stem and it looks good, has blue factory lube already, slathered some extra. I also went to install the 14T front sprocket but unfortunately there isn't enough clearance and you cant simply sand out the cover to make it work.

I also balanced the wheels, definitely a worthwhile investment to buy a wheel balancer and some spoke weights. Also slathered grease inside the wheel bearings.

So far things are looking good from the factory, pleasantly surprised to see lock nuts on the axles and good wheel spacers.

[tknj99]

Finished the build, registered and inspected.
I’ll definitely need to re-gear as 5th is sitting at 7k doing 55 on the probably inaccurate Speedo.. thinking 42T or maybe 40T

Some miscellaneous build notes:
- valves were not tight, they actually had some slight movement which was nice, I shoulda checked the clearance but I’m guessing they were already at .002
- the bike runs very well with the carb as is, not sure if I’ll need to fiddle with it, maybe
- make sure the cover/electric tape the wire harness under the rear fender.. wrap each wire individually first
- I like the wide bars
- geared as is, the bike is pretty snappy power-wise
- make sure to remove and oil the foam air filter
- the metal bars on each side is for the plastics and they need to be loosed and oriented upwards (they came oriented down)
- comes with a magnetic drain plug
-the brake side peg does not recoil, as per PSM this is normal and they sent a video showing that

[vividpixel]

Originally Posted by tknj99

went to install the 14T front sprocket but unfortunately there isn't enough clearance

Yikes, even that 13 tooth barely has any room there. It looks like exactly the same clearance as when I went from a 13 to a 14 tooth on my X...which at some point did chip off a piece of the cover, despite my attempts to keep the chain tight. I'm not familiar with the base model but I'm surprised the factory ships it this way.

[tknj99]

Yea it quickly dashed my hopes for a quick fix to the gearing conundrum
Now to figure which rear makes the most sense

[Dusman]

Though I’m running the 6 speed version of this engine in my Hawk, I went with 13/40 sprockets and it still has plenty of grunt for off-road use. However, if I was primarily going to ride this bike off-road, I probably would have gone with a 42 rear instead of a 40 because personally, I find the current set-up a little too fast in the woods for my liking, but of course, that could simply be my lack of skill. I like my trail bikes to be able to chug a little slower in 1st gear if I’m doing woods or trail riding so that I have a little more control. However, I can verify that at least in a Hawk, this engine is plenty torquey enough to do a 13/40 sprocket set-up for off-road riding.

[tknj99]

Update: removed the carb today to re-jet. Man, i forgot what a bear it was to remove the carb on these bikes.. best way that worked for me was to remove the fuel line, slide cap and choke cable, then the rubber piping on the engine/carb and airbox connection.. then pull back the airbox snorkel outwards, and wriggle the carb thru there.
For the carb, they come with taper proof screws, i attempted to remove via cutting grooves into the heads to unscrew, but these are coming lock-tited now and i still remember trashing my last carb trying to remove the screws.. this time, i wasn't having any of that business so i just grinded the heads down with my angle grinder, easy peasy.. and then vice-grip the screws out once the bowl is removed..
I didn't have a 125 main, so i kept it stock with 120, which seems to be fine.. I did replace the pilot from the stock 40 to now a 42. I also added a shim to the needle jet and buttoned back up.

I may re-jet the main in the future to a 130 which i do have on hand if i gut the catalyst from the exhaust