Templar 250 resource guide

[tknj99]

Does anyone know the maker listed for the base Templar? My former Titan DLX maker was Koolcnchet on the MSO, while the Templar X showed Zumaav. I’m wondering if the base Templar willl show Zumaav since it has the overhead cam Zongshen engine and is branded as a Templar instead of Titan. Thanks

[Mumen Rider]

Zhejiang Koolcnchet Industry & Trade Co Ltd(Xmoto) is the trade company that imported your Titan DLX if that's what is listed on your MSO. All of these Xpro models(titan/templar) are Zuumav regardless of the importer. X-Pro(Zuumav) has a handful of different businesses selling the same models under different names.

[tknj99]

Thanks for that info!

I'm also curious to see how much more powerful the Templar will feel over the old Titan being that it will have the 249cc engine vs the 229cc... maybe a little extra oomph.. that and its lighter i believe than the Templar X so that's a plus.

[redhatengineer]

Has anyone ordered a better skid plate/bash guard for the templar x 6 speed? 4th time out managed to catch a rock directly in the left case cover and punched a nice hole in it 15 miles out on the trail. Luckily i was riding with folks and we were able to effect a trail repair to get it back to camp but I'd like to fit something on it that can protect the case a little better as the stock skid plate only covers underneath. Looking at the devol case cover for the rmz 250 ( https://www.motosport.com/devol-skid-plate?variant[DEV0009]=DEV0009-X001-Y044 ) which looks like it might bolt up but curious if anyone's confirmed fitment on anything.

[GypsyR]

There's AT LEAST one mention of skid plates in the main (non reference guide) Templar thread. Here one is, halfway down this page - https://www.chinariders.net/showthre...30518&page=114

[redhatengineer]

Originally Posted by GypsyR

There's AT LEAST one mention of skid plates in the main (non reference guide) Templar thread. Here one is, halfway down this page - https://www.chinariders.net/showthre...30518&page=114

Hey thank you! I'm not sure how I missed that, I searched through that thread a few times haha. That particular plate they used leaves a nice gaping hole right where the rock punched a hole in my case so i probably won't get that one lol. But it gives me a good fitment reference!

[Mumen Rider]

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/9g-RJBPMFhs


Youtube short showing idle AFR with a stock Templar X 250 that has the cat removed. The carb is untouched from factory.

[Thumper]

MOST Templars arrive with sealed Youall carburetors jet LEAN from the factory. In fact, this is common for most crate bikes.

This "sealed carb" lean jet state isn't necessarily a problem for folks that live in Santa Fe or the high plains over 4500 feet. I live at 800 feet, and I had to rejet three Templar X bikes to enrich the pilot and main jetting, and also shimmed the needle about one millimeter. The popping on decel and the missing on throttle twist completely went away, and the spark plug read perfectly. They were definitely too lean.

Most people find that they can eliminate the lean running behavior by bumping from 40 to 42 on the pilot, and from 120 to 125 on the main jet.

As I say, most crate bikes ship lean. Your experience may vary, but

https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...3&postcount=25

[Mumen Rider]

Yeah, going to have to disagree completely with you there after seeing the numbers myself. This was with a factory carb(120m/40p) that still had the plug on the pilot screw at ~9' ASL. Popping on deceleration doesn't indicate a lean running condition. If it's running this rich at sea level, it's only going to run richer the higher you go.




I just did some logging with the factory carb running 122m/40p.


1'-50' ASL, 75-79 degrees F and humidity was 55-65%.


Idle AFR with one turn out on the pilot: 12.2-13.0 (towards the richer side after warming up)
WOT AFR: 12.2-13.2 (richer at the top end)


WOT runs ran in 4th gear up to 10k rpm which was ~65mph.

[Hotled]

So no one makes extended tanks for gas?

[CC-John]

Yeah, popping on deceleration is usually an indicator of a leaky exhaust system and fresh air being drawn in is helping the unburned fuel in the exhaust gasses to ignite in the exhaust system causing the popping. I pulled the muffler off of my Templar and drilled out the rivets holding the endcaps on and sealed the endcaps with high temp RTV silicone, then reinstalled with new pop rivets. Also sealed the slip joint where the muffler connects to the header pipe when putting the muffler back on the bike. The popping on decel has totally disappeared, and I'm still running the stock jetting with just a mild tweak to the idle mixture jet after removing the plug over it. I'm located about 55-60 feet above sea level..

[CC-John]

Originally Posted by Hotled

So no one makes extended tanks for gas?

I got a two gallon Giant Loop Armadillo Bag to extend my range when I'm gonna be riding where gas stations are scarce. Just fill it up and lash it to the rear rack until needed, then roll it up and stuff it in a saddlebag when it's empty. It's not inexpensive, but not much difference between it and a 2 gallon RotoPax with appropriate mounting system.

https://www.giantloopmoto.com/produc...wer-reservoir/

[MaLfUnCtIoN]

How is the seat attached? I tried giving it a good yank, looked for screws... Want to put a battery tender to it. Feel foolish

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by MaLfUnCtIoN

How is the seat attached? I tried giving it a good yank, looked for screws... Want to put a battery tender to it. Feel foolish

8mm bolts left and right tucked under the back end of the seat. They come out pretty easy, but it can be hard to push the seat down to get them back in. I ground the hole downwards (tabs on the seat) to make it easier to get the bolts back in. Good idea on the tender leads.

[MaLfUnCtIoN]

Originally Posted by Thumper

8mm bolts left and right tucked under the back end of the seat. They come out pretty easy, but it can be hard to push the seat down to get them back in. I ground the hole downwards (tabs on the seat) to make it easier to get the bolts back in. Good idea on the tender leads.

Thanks. Also, tried putting in an ngk iridium but despite using the part number suggested (dpr8eix-9), it wouldn't fit the plug wire boot. Looks like stock uses threads.