05-30-2024, 09:38 PM | #61 |
Join Date: May 2024
Location: Florida
Posts: 109
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I ran out of cut off wheels for my dremel tool but I have these pliers that managed to get the OEM carb screws out without much fuss even with the red thread lock on the bolts. Engineer PZ-57 Japanese pliers($16 on Amazon, a great alternative if you don't have a dremel tool or don't want to spend the money for this one job). You will need M4-.70x20mm screws to replace the OEM headless bolts.
I could only fit one .5mm shim under the needle and still have the white plastic needle retainer clip into the slide piston. |
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06-11-2024, 11:19 PM | #62 |
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 2,733
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Lowered-Kickstand fix
I posted the 5/8" new lower mounting hole on the rear shock (post #59), which drops about 1.75" and if you drop the front forks about a half inch, you get a solid 2" lowering. I also compressed the preload by about 175 pounds (~ half inch @ 350 pounds per inch). This is a NICE way to stiffen and lower the bike moderately.
BUT, the kickstand is too long now. Aussie mentioned that the kickstand had nice thick walls, so I decided that my weak welding skills could be successfully brought to bear I took a ~1.25" section out, below the lower spring mounting post: I set it up pinning it vertically to a red landscaping cinderblock and ground off a section to pin the grounding clamp: A strip of masking tape was good enough to hold it for the first tack weld, then pulled the tape off and finished it off: Lovely weld, eh In my defense, most of that is slag. It was pretty good underneath the mess I filed off the crap and gave it a flat black finish. Done. The bike leans over nicely. You can even park it with the kickstand uphill now. Plenty strong enough. This worked out great.
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No matter where you go, there you are Last edited by Thumper; 07-04-2024 at 12:25 PM. |
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06-18-2024, 09:09 PM | #65 |
Join Date: May 2024
Location: Florida
Posts: 109
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No, it's 31mm. I bought a 31mm socket and it fits perfectly compared to the loose fit of a 32mm. Nut 31.22mm 31mm socket 31.4mm 32mm socket 32.2mm (ISO/DIN standard: 32.08 - 32.48mm) If someone uses a 32mm with an impact to loosen it they are going to deform the nut. |
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06-18-2024, 10:23 PM | #66 |
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 2,733
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32mm works. A 1-1/4" socket will also work. I use a breaker bar.
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No matter where you go, there you are Last edited by Thumper; 06-20-2024 at 11:40 AM. |
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06-19-2024, 09:51 PM | #67 | |
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 8,110
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Quote:
If a 32mm fits, also great, I would use that. If some standard size fits better than either of them, I would use that. My point is. Who cares? Use whatever fits the tightest or works. This is like arguing about who got more milk in their glass.
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Hawk Information and Resource guide: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=20331 2018 Hawk 250 - Full Mod list here. http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....62&postcount=1 2024 Royal Enfield Shotgun 650 https://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=34124 |
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06-19-2024, 11:24 PM | #68 |
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 2,733
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I'm glad the 31mm socket works for you. My 32 works, and I have a 1-1/4" backup that works too. It's just a couple of turns to loosen, tightens easy to, and I like using a breaker bar to make it easy. It's like 55-60 foot pounds. No need to use an impact driver. I don't need to buy a new socket.
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No matter where you go, there you are |
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06-20-2024, 12:02 AM | #69 |
Join Date: Nov 2022
Location: Pennsyltuckey
Posts: 311
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I used an adjustable wrench because I couldn't find a suitable socket. I think I have a 11/4" socket so if I can find it easily I'll try it next time. Maybe buy the right socket some day.
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22 Templar 250 |
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06-20-2024, 10:02 AM | #70 |
Join Date: Feb 2023
Location: Upstate SC
Posts: 339
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I'd appreciate it if like a half a dozen or so posts at the tail of this otherwise very helpful resource thread were deleted.
And then this one too. For the record, until a few posts back I never knew or cared what size the axle nut was. I just loosened and tightened it with whatever it was I had that fit. An adjustable wrench would work. I see it as a non-issue.
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2023 Templar 250 X |
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07-14-2024, 02:22 PM | #71 |
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Dayton Pa.
Posts: 953
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you are so right GypyR. a pair of good pliers wood work.
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08-28-2024, 12:59 PM | #72 |
Join Date: Feb 2022
Location: Nevada, USA
Posts: 114
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Update: New sensor works great and matches up with the original, but still no 1st gear.
I just bought the last one of these gear position sensors for the Templar X 250, and here's the link in case someone else wants one when they restock: ebay.com/itm/225647471555 (copy-paste to your browser's address bar) It's sold by XPro. Once I install it, I'll edit this post to confirm that it fits, and at least didn't make the problem any worse (missing indicator for 1st gear).
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Templar X 250 (model X7-CB250F), current config: 13t/45t, X-ring, PE30, K772 DT Last edited by vividpixel; 08-31-2024 at 10:23 PM. Reason: I promised an update |
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08-29-2024, 10:18 PM | #73 | |
Join Date: Aug 2024
Location: Central Massachusetts
Posts: 2
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Quote:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/30574459271...mis&media=COPY |
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09-10-2024, 06:08 PM | #74 |
Join Date: May 2024
Location: Florida
Posts: 109
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https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804671542578.html Sold by Zuumav's official Aliexpress store. I have purchased one, I believe it will bolt right up to our bikes. Edit: Light received, it does not fit our mounts. You can however use those rubber straps to mount it but you would still need the lower bracket to mount it at four points. It is physically larger than our light and fairing by a fair bit too. Last edited by Mumen Rider; 09-18-2024 at 06:01 PM. |
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09-10-2024, 06:30 PM | #75 | |
Join Date: Jan 2024
Posts: 105
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Quote:
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Templar X 250 Vespa GTS 300 Vespa ET4 150 Triumph Legend TT 900 |
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