03-06-2024, 02:05 PM | #1 |
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Wiggins, MS
Posts: 46
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X-Pro X6
Just a quick review on the X-Pro X6. The bike is fairly large, about the same size as a CRF150RB which is my 13 year old 5' daughter's other bike. She loves both of these...but differently lol
The carb has been rendered difficult to tune by the EPA, the bowl now has screws with heads resembling rivets but theydo unscrew using pliers. The bike is incredibly lean with a 82 main jet and 35 pilot jet taking about 5-10 minutes to warm up in 60 degree weather. I had extra jets and screws laying around from earlier bikes so it wasn't any extra cost to try to work with this. The pilot jet is unusual to me, like a Khein (I believe) but with the long thin portion missing. I had extra 38's laying around so I tried grinding off one but it was unsuccessful. Next I used a wire cutter to clip the end, leaving it a little jagged not to block the hole seemed to work good. My smallestain jet on hand was a 100, so I went with the modified 38 and the 100. The needle only has one clip position so it's not adjustable. What's weird is this jetting is infinitely better than the original but maybe a 40 pilot would have even been better. It's not worth changing out and runs pretty good now. The gearshift pattern is n01234. The bike will not shift under power even when the clutch is fully pulled, you have to come off the throttle. It also will not shift into neautral unless killed or shifted while still moving. The clutch changes between cold and warm but usable. The transmission is clunky compared to the CRF150R, but that thing is silk. The gear shift has rubber and your foot slips off easily, this will be changed as requested by my daughter. The swingarm has blow-thru near some of the weld areas near the chain adjuster. The chain adjuster is a bolt with two nuts, it's not threaded into the swingarm. The bolts look like high quality bolts like found onf the CRF150R, they are not. The bolts are painted and already chipping. The bike is beautiful but already has some rust on the frame after less than 24 hours ownership. The CRF125FB is quicker, but not by much. Would I buy this bike again at this point, YES!!! You can buy four of these compared to a CRF125RB, just accept the short comings and enjoy!!! |
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04-26-2024, 11:33 PM | #3 |
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Wiggins, MS
Posts: 46
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Follow-up. After about 5 tanks of fuel the starter gear bushing separated from the starter gear which in turn destroyed the oil seals on the crankshaft and starter gear. It leaked a lot of oil. X-Pro sent a replacement starter clutch assembly and crankcase oil seal but the starter clutch is too tall and will not allow the flywheel to seat on the crankshaft. After looking for more than 5 hours, I cannot find a starter gear that will work. Practically every 50-125cc gear is 28mm tall, this one is 24mm. It's starting to look non repairable without have a machine shop become involved.
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04-27-2024, 09:28 AM | #4 |
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: De Soto, MO
Posts: 1,979
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Who makes the X6 motor?
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2021 Lifan Xpect--sold 2022 Lifan KPX 1972 Honda CT90--The Carrot 1969 Honda CT90--The Tomahto Cheesy is the WDK (workplace drama king). Now retired. Nope, back in the saddle. Nope, finally retired. Climate: The Movie https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A24fWmNA6lM How our government really works https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjadCd0VRBw Question all authority.....think for yourself |
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04-29-2024, 09:53 PM | #5 |
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Wiggins, MS
Posts: 46
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It says zongshen, the tag says 154fmi which I believe is an engine type.
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08-03-2024, 03:17 PM | #6 |
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Wiggins, MS
Posts: 46
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Finally got the bike going again after a couple of months. I removed the bushing and seals from one of the 3 starter gears that didn't fit and installed them in the old gear. Seems to be holding-up after about a month or so. If that didn't work, the next step was a new engine.
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08-03-2024, 05:16 PM | #7 |
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 2,784
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Those welds are bad, for sure.
Clutch cable housing is adjustable, and you lengthen/shorten the housing to adjust the point of engagement. Maybe the adjustment on the lever is not enough? Is there any way to adjust it at the lever at the engine side of the cable. If you don't get that cable housing lengthened, it will put lots of stress on the transmission (like shifting without a clutch). Seals and bearings can be damaged. Kind of rough on the engine. The carb break-off bolts on the bowl are common now, on every carbed bike. You can replace them with standard metric bolts. I just grind off the top and remove the threaded stem with pliers. Yes, they usually need rejetting! Or buy a new carb and start over with rejetting. You might get an adjustable needle, which is easier than shimming!
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No matter where you go, there you are Last edited by Thumper; 08-04-2024 at 09:29 PM. |
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