lower your bike-rear shock

[J4Fun]

Is there a chance to have tire/fender contact? It seems like lowering these bikes is a catch 22 problem? Seems like to keep the clearance correct without limiting shock travel, you can’t lower too much, via shock. I’m thinking they are designed this way. Just thinking out loud smaller rims or a frame change would be the way to go for lowering seat height. Again just thinking out loud…

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by J4Fun

Is there a chance to have tire/fender contact?

No. Not on mine at least. Read the description on post #15 for clarification. I compensated for the one inch shorter shock length with over 350 pound increase in preload on the rear coil spring.

As I mentioned, it used to sag more than three inches when I sat on it. Now it sags less than one inch. I also stiffened the compression damping.

As I mentioned above, the result is limited sag and it doesn't rebound to 37.5" anymore. Any hard core racer would not like giving up shock travel, but I don't do 20 foot jumps or huge woops

It is just stiffer sooner. I could always return it to stock shock length and even relax preload, but this works better for my riding style, and it's easier to get on, get off... I love it

Stock setup has huge sag and lots of rear shock travel. That's what an enduro rider that makes big jumps wants. I just tightened up the shock and lowered it. It works nicely for moderately aggressive riding. I will not be able to compress this swingarm far enough to cause contact between the tire and fender. No way.

[mikew1231]

Thanks for the pictures and how to! I just got my Hawk 250 DLX put together today and I really want to lower it too. I think that your method will work for me too. I'm not sure I'll go for the whole 3", thinking maybe 1.5'

[Ina Ditch]

That is a good lookin bike ya got there Thumper !!

[Fast_Freddy]

I just lowered my Templar base using this method. I was able to drill the new hole after removing the dog legs for access. I marked and drilled one side then positioned the bushing in line with the new hole and used it as a guide for the second hole. The new holes are about 20mm above the originals. I didn't measure before and after but it appears to have dropped the rear 2-3". I'll measure the seat height soon. Anyway, I like it a lot!

Thanks for the very useful tip on the 10mm hole size. I ordered some new bits before starting which was prudent since I previously had only 9.5mm and 11mm bits on hand.

[zero_dgz]

I'm just going to go ahead and point out for anyone else reading this, re: spring compressors and all, that a suitable spanner wrench for this is like $13 on Amazon. You can use the same one for your steering stem nut in the future, too. If you're already committed to having the shock out and in a vise it's a doddle.



I was able to easily turn the rear shock locknuts on the shock on my Orion with one of these...


https://www.amazon.com/Pit-Posse-Adj...p/B004MZNP5Q/r


...Which is far fancier even than what you actually need. If you're worried about the threads and the contact area between the spring and the nut(s), just oil them up before you start.

[GypsyR]

From having had a few bikes in my time I have a few of those spanner wrenches. In the case of my '23 Templar, I can use none of them. Some fit, but they simply did not build the bike with room to access the adjustment. So if you have the same bike, you can skip buying the proper wrench unless you intend to remove the shock to use it. No doubt one would work fine on other brands and models.

[Thumper]

The spring is also really resistent to movement to the tune of 350lb/inch. And, the adjustment collar is aluminum and wafer thin. A hammer and screwdrive will just mall the adjustment collar badly, and turning the threads with that much pressure on them seems like inviting disaster (grind off the threads!)... Fortunately, it is pretty easy to pull the shock out the right side. Just one bolt on top and one bolt on the linkage end and it slips right out. Once it is out of there, I'd rather use the coil spring clamp and moved the adjustment collar by hand.

Yeah, it is a little more trouble than an adjustment collar tool, but the threads on that collar just barely seem strong enough for the spring as it is

1 inch was too much, lowering the bike too much for me (maybe 3"). I sold that blue 6speed. When I did my son's new blue 6 speed, we went 5/8" on the new hole, and it worked out better
https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...0&postcount=58

And we dialed up about 175 pounds of additional preload while the shock was out. Then I did the same on my orange 5 speed. Then took off about 1.25" from the kickstand and it leans over just right!
https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...9&postcount=62