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06-22-2024, 09:34 AM | #1 |
Join Date: Jun 2024
Posts: 6
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Hawk X 250 jetting, and possible air filter and exhaust recommendations
Good morning, and thanks for having me as a part of your awesome community!
I have a brand new Hawk X 250 coming to me this week, and I've done as much research as possible scouring these forums but I was wondering if I could get some of you experts to provide me some individual guidances and recommendations! I've been riding about 20 years, and have other bikes and plan to keep this one indefinitely. I'm ordering a pe28 Nibbi carburetor, the flange model, in black, but two things I've noticed. Is one it's nearly $15 cheaper to get the non black finish model, is there any difference? I can also spend only a few dollars more and get the version with the air pod filter. I plan to ride 90% street and 10% very light hard pack trails. Is it worth doing an air box delete and going to a pod filter? I'm not opposed to switching to it immediately especially since it's a good deal, but I'm not sure of the benefit. This also applies to an exhaust, I've debated on ordering a JFG or Crf230 exhaust and running it right out of the gate. But the same thing, is there a huge benefit? Would you guys do one or both of them from the start? My main question that I would help on, is im familiar with how to work on carbs, what jet does what etc, but I was wondering if anyone has any starter guidance for the jets. For the next few months here it'll be 85-100f, and I live at sea level, I'm right by the ocean. What jets would you recommend I start with for a base line? If I went just air pod no exhaust, what jets would you recommend? What about airpod and exhaust with the pe28, what jets would you recommend for that? Edit: I ended up buying the black finish PE28 with the pod air filter and a JFG exhaust. I'd still appreciate tuning recommendations for 90f and sea level I'm sorry for the large post, but I really respect y'all's help, guidance and what this forum is. I look forward to being a part of the community. Thanks Hellenic Last edited by Hellenic; 06-22-2024 at 02:56 PM. Reason: Added the details of what I ordered |
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06-22-2024, 09:49 AM | #2 | |
Join Date: Feb 2021
Posts: 997
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06-22-2024, 10:11 AM | #3 |
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 329
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Just get a PZ30 with included pod filter and fuel lines. They go for like $30, and just as good as a Nibbi.
The PZ30 I ordered, came with a 38 pilot and a 108 main, and was pretty spot on for my Vader 150. Just needed to add a bit of fuel with the AF screw. You likely will need a 110 main. The problem with the stock airbox you currently have, is 1: that it's in the way of swapping out the carburetor easily, and 2: the hose connecting the carburetor to the airbox is made out of flexible rubber. This means at times it will cause a restriction. If you ride your bike in rain or puddles, there may be a way to install your carburetor and PID filter, and drill a hole in the airbox, and fit the pod filter inside the airbox, preventing mud or water splashes to dirty the filter. However, for street riding or mild rain, the pod filter is good enough by itself. |
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06-22-2024, 02:40 PM | #4 |
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Northern Vermont, USA
Posts: 1,271
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Yes, there IS a difference between the black and natural finish Nibbi's. I have both models of the PE28 flanged carbs. The natural finish carb is not a polished bore. It's especially noticeable on the air intake side. Does this actually make a HP difference? Dunno. The 2 carbs have tuned VERY differently. I am running both of these carbs on OHC engines, but the general rules should still apply to the pushrod Hawk engine. The black polished bore Nibbi ended up with a 40 pilot, needle raised to clip position 4, 130 main, and air screw 1 1/2. I tried these same settings on the natural finish and it was so lean it would hardly run. I am currently at 40 pilot, needle raised all the way up to clip position 5, 155 main, and only 3/4 turn out on the air screw. This is a decent tune, but STILL on the lean side of correct.
So, the two carbs are, in fact, VERY DIFFERENT, even though they are both Nibbi PE 28s.
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First Chinabike: 2006 Roketa RSX200E Current Chinabikes: 2023 Titan DLX & 2022 Lifan KP Mini w/ 210cc BRT kit, 22 RWHP! |
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06-22-2024, 02:54 PM | #5 | |||
Join Date: Jun 2024
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06-22-2024, 03:23 PM | #6 | |
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Northern Vermont, USA
Posts: 1,271
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First Chinabike: 2006 Roketa RSX200E Current Chinabikes: 2023 Titan DLX & 2022 Lifan KP Mini w/ 210cc BRT kit, 22 RWHP! |
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06-22-2024, 04:36 PM | #7 |
Join Date: Feb 2021
Posts: 997
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I'm on my second bare metal Nibbi, and they have both had polished bores, like a mirror finish, but either of them will flow more than what your likely to make with a CG. Dan has what sounds like a 20 HP, or a little better build on his , and the last I heard he was running a VM26, Mikuni style. Until yesterday, I had what I assume was pretty close to a 19, or 20 HP build, and I was running a Nibbi PEZ, but I'm putting a stock motor on the bike for now, because I lost the bearings from a cam follower, and it damaged my timing gears, and probably cam as well. The motor I'm using has a VM26 Mikuni style, and that's what I'm planning on using. The only real drawback to those are the fact that the mixture is hard to reach, like on the stock carbs
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