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Old 06-03-2024, 08:49 AM   #1
NH Shorty   NH Shorty is offline
 
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Rear Sprocket on Templar X

Hello! I am new here and purchased a Templar X in April. Have really enjoyed it so far and made a few mods, with the help of this site. So far I have re-jetted the carb and installed bark busters.

I am in the process of swapping out the tires for some 50/50 Kenda K270's. While changing out the rear tire I want to swap the rear sprocket to bring down the RPM's some while tooling around on the black top.

I purchases both a 45 and 42 tooth JT rear sprocket. My question is, will I need to get a shorter chain or remove a link if I go to the 42 tooth? I ask as the rear tensioner is already about 3/4 toward the rear, so wondering if I will run out of room to adjust & properly tension the chain.


 
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Old 06-03-2024, 09:39 AM   #2
red2003   red2003 is offline
 
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Yes, you will need to shorten the chain. If you have a dremel or grinder, it's an easy process.
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Old 06-03-2024, 12:01 PM   #3
Thumper   Thumper is online now
 
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All you need to do is remove a link or two. Get a chain break (~$15).


You will need one in the future anyway when you buy a new chain and need to remove some links, or when your chain stretcghes and it is too long.
This is a basic motorcycle tool to have when you own a motorcycle. It will get used.

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Old 06-03-2024, 04:22 PM   #4
Aussie_in_MO   Aussie_in_MO is offline
 
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Took two links out of my stock Templar X's chain with an angle grinder, straight punch, and 20t shop press.
Mostly because I needed it done that day and couldn't be bothered going over to my Dad's place to get my breaker back.
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Old 06-03-2024, 04:56 PM   #5
NH Shorty   NH Shorty is offline
 
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Thanks all! I will get to work removing the chain and start taking some links out. Anyone recall how many links they had to remove on their stock chain to fit the 42 tooth? Would love to get it right the first time, if I can.


 
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Old 06-03-2024, 06:45 PM   #6
Thumper   Thumper is online now
 
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You will have to adjust to about 65-75% forward on the axel slot, square on both sides. This is so that you can loosen if needed, or tighten the chain after removing the links.

Then pull the chain around the rear sprocket. Determine the overlap, estimating appropriate slack in the chain... Look closely, because removing "one" link is actually removing two sections. They have to go back together using the master link.

No one can really be certain about the number of links you need to remove.
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Last edited by Thumper; 06-03-2024 at 08:04 PM.
 
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Old 06-03-2024, 08:23 PM   #7
NH Shorty   NH Shorty is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper View Post
You will have to adjust to about 65-75% forward on the axel slot, square on both sides. This is so that you can loosen if needed, or tighten the chain after removing the links.

Then pull the chain around the rear sprocket. Determine the overlap, estimating appropriate slack in the chain... Look closely, because removing "one" link is actually removing two sections. They have to go back together using the master link.

No one can really be certain about the number of links you need to remove.
Great explanation. Thank you !


 
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Old 06-03-2024, 10:44 PM   #8
ProDigit   ProDigit is offline
 
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You can use a chain breaker, to reinsert the rod in the chain and close the loop.
I've done several thousands of miles on an OEM chain which I've shortened this method.
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Old 06-04-2024, 05:10 AM   #9
Thumper   Thumper is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProDigit View Post
You can use a chain breaker, to reinsert the rod in the chain and close the loop.
I've done several thousands of miles on an OEM chain which I've shortened this method.
This is the standard method for continuous link chains. I've used this method on continuous link chains, but the master link on OEM chains and aftermarket Takasago RK standard chains are MUCH easier to deal with, and in 45 years I've never had a master link fail. Never.

I usually remove the chain and hang it for lubrication. It is so much quicker and easier with the master link. Personally, I trust it more than reinstalling with the chain break.

Always install the open side of the master link clip on the trailing side, make sure the link and chain are clean during install.
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Old 06-04-2024, 10:43 AM   #10
GypsyR   GypsyR is offline
 
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I've had one master link come apart/disappear. An older and well worn enduro bike I bought a few years ago had two spare master links hooked on the clutch cable. I figure there was a reason the previous owner wanted those handy. So I expect experiences vary.
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Old 06-04-2024, 11:22 AM   #11
Weresquatch   Weresquatch is offline
 
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I'm gonna do the same swap shortly to a 42T. I have a chain breaker but I didn't know the OEM chain had a master link...things just got easier.
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Old 06-07-2024, 12:24 PM   #12
NH Shorty   NH Shorty is offline
 
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Thought I would report back on my findings & outcome. I used the process that Thumper outlined and it worked perfectly. Ended up removing a total of 2 links to get the 42T sprocket with the stock chain to fit and adjusted correctly.

The higher gearing is exactly what I was needing and the 42T was the correct way to go. Thanks again for the assistance.


 
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