What are these stock screws made out of aluminum? Every bolt is stripping

[TheDarkMagician]

Like I'm at the club making it rain! I remember reading a post researching about a kit to replace every bolt for our bikes but I actually bought mine from the little dealer in Texas so it was already assembled. On the 2nd carb clean and I strip out the junk plastic throttle body spacer female threads just trying to tighten down the dang carb. I almost feel like epoxying the studds in

[ProDigit]

Never had problems with hex bolts, but do with Philips head screws.

[Bruces]

The stock screws are made out of “I can’t believe it’s not butter “ ,

[buzz]

No problems on mine.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by ProDigit

Never had problems with hex bolts, but do with Philips head screws.

That's because they aren't Phillips head screws, and are actually JIS screws. They look similar, but the angle of the head cut is different, and a Phillips driver only engages a small section of the metal on the screw head, and thus strips them all out. Get a set of JIS drivers, they are fairly cheap on Amazon

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by TheDarkMagician

Like I'm at the club making it rain! I remember reading a post researching about a kit to replace every bolt for our bikes but I actually bought mine from the little dealer in Texas so it was already assembled. On the 2nd carb clean and I strip out the junk plastic throttle body spacer female threads just trying to tighten down the dang carb. I almost feel like epoxying the studds in

I have made an effort to upgrade hardware as it needs it. Basically, any bolt that may be removed and reinstalled multiple times will get upgraded. Ace Hardware is a great place to go for this. I was even able to upgrade my intake studs this way withi nickel plated steel studs I found there.

[old_airhead]

Originally Posted by Megadan

I have made an effort to upgrade hardware as it needs it. Basically, any bolt that may be removed and reinstalled multiple times will get upgraded. Ace Hardware is a great place to go for this. I was even able to upgrade my intake studs this way withi nickel plated steel studs I found there.

Are the screws from Ace Hardware Phillips or JIS? By the way, JIS screws are supposed to have a small dot punched near the slot. And yes, Phillips screwdrivers do a terrible job on JIS screws.

Also get yourself a hand impact driver for maintenance. Works great for both Phillips and JIS (if you have the right bits).

[Barnone]

JIS screwdrivers
https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-J...RoCRw0QAvD_BwE

[Thumper]

An impact driver was one of the first tools I got to work on my used 1970s era Suzuki TS250 in 1976. It loosened, and then properly set the crankcase screws when I had to rebuild it. I didn't even replace the screws (what did I know!?), but it held together OK. It cost me $5, with four bits-2 flathead, two JIS/philips (no idea which). Essential tool



All six main bearings and seals on the ends of the crank, counter, and drive shafts, New second gear and counter shaft (fused together), full gasket kit, rebored cylinder (maybe 270cc) and new piston/rings. Oh, and an expansion chamber to replace the OEM muffler. Then I got the crash course in jetting.

That impact driver is still useful.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by old_airhead

Are the screws from Ace Hardware Phillips or JIS? By the way, JIS screws are supposed to have a small dot punched near the slot. And yes, Phillips screwdrivers do a terrible job on JIS screws.

Also get yourself a hand impact driver for maintenance. Works great for both Phillips and JIS (if you have the right bits).

Most metric stuff from ACE will be standard Phillips. As for supposed to have a dot... bolts are supposed to be made of metal too, but China discovered aged cheddar and never looked back.

[superjocko]

They're made of Chinesium.

[J4Fun]

Originally Posted by Megadan

I have made an effort to upgrade hardware as it needs it. Basically, any bolt that may be removed and reinstalled multiple times will get upgraded. Ace Hardware is a great place to go for this. I was even able to upgrade my intake studs this way withi nickel plated steel studs I found there.

This idea makes since and is what I do too. I also use an impact driver for the bolts or screws that I think are going to be stubborn. Just to make it clear, hammer impact driver, just my thoughts…

[Hawks & Turkeys]

Originally Posted by ProDigit

Never had problems with hex bolts, but do with Philips head screws.

You're right - Phillips head screws, especially the ones you have to remove a lot, like the side panel for the battery. The olive drab green color makes it look like the factory received a shipment of surplus screws from the Chinese Army. Hope they run out soon.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by Hawks & Turkeys

You're right - Phillips head screws, especially the ones you have to remove a lot, like the side panel for the battery. The olive drab green color makes it look like the factory received a shipment of surplus screws from the Chinese Army. Hope they run out soon.

Earlier in this thread.

Originally Posted by Megadan

That's because they aren't Phillips head screws, and are actually JIS screws. They look similar, but the angle of the head cut is different, and a Phillips driver only engages a small section of the metal on the screw head, and thus strips them all out. Get a set of JIS drivers, they are fairly cheap on Amazon

[Hawks & Turkeys]

Originally Posted by Megadan

Most metric stuff from ACE will be standard Phillips. As for supposed to have a dot... bolts are supposed to be made of metal too, but China discovered aged cheddar and never looked back.

Aged Cheddar - I'm dead