04-30-2024, 02:51 PM | #1 |
Join Date: Apr 2024
Location: Alabama
Posts: 3
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Multiple error codes
I am new to the bike world. I bought my son a hawk 250 (carburetor) to get himself around until he is old enough to drive. To much fun so I bought me one in February so the two of us can ride.
I have a 2023 Hawk DLX 250 with only 278 miles. Engine light came on and the fuel pump was not cutting off with the kill switch. Tracked it down to the relay and replaced with one from local auto parts store. The relay worked and runs pretty good but with a little backfire when coming off throttle. I have also just adjusted the valves. My issue is I'm still getting multiple error codes (113, 562, 122, 23, 351). Does anyone have an idea of what could be setting off all these codes. Bike runs good, just afraid I'm going to be stranded on a trip due to something failing. I would appreciate any help. 113: intake air temp sensor 562: system voltage low 122: intake manifold pressure sensor 23: atmospheric pressure sensor air filter 351: ignition coil power failure |
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04-30-2024, 03:36 PM | #2 |
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 359
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Your code 562 bugs me, is the battery fully charged? Is the battery the original? My thoughts are check all connections and make sure there plugged in tight and you should inspect the wiring around the fork neck for rubs. My guess is the ground is bad because of all those error codes rather than one. Just thinking out loud…
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04-30-2024, 04:53 PM | #3 |
Join Date: Apr 2024
Location: Alabama
Posts: 3
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That was my first thought. I charged my battery, then swapped the battery from my son's bike and no change. Both are original batteries. I pulled all connecters apart and used dielectric grease on everything. I have disconnected the battery and assuming this would have reset the codes, is that correct.
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04-30-2024, 06:19 PM | #4 |
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 2,764
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It may be necessary to dump residual capacitance in the system that stores the codes to get rid of them. This is often done with a reset button that grounds the circuit in a device, but... A simple wasy of doing this is to disconnect the battery and connect the positive and negative wires together and allow any capacitance to drain (takes seconds). Then turn the key on with the wires still connected in case the codes are safe from discharge with the key turned off.
Keep in mind the battery is out of the loop here. We are not talking about connecting the two poles of your battery! Lots of devices in cars can maintain codes and programming with tiny amounts of residual charge held in capacitors inside components. I learned this when I found out that I could fix my windows or door locks in my car by doing this. When you reconnect the battery, the default programs/settings are loaded from EPROM chips in the components. Pretty cool.
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04-30-2024, 08:47 PM | #5 |
Join Date: Apr 2024
Location: Alabama
Posts: 3
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Thank you for the reply/information, been playing with it all day. I'll have to try that tomorrow fingers crossed it works. doesn't seem like anything is wrong with it just can't get rid of the codes. When the relay went out, the fuel pump ran while off and killed the battery but haven't had an issue since and showing 14.4 on voltmeter when running.
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