Vader 150

[ProDigit]

Greetings all!
I just purchased a Vader 150 *edit: X-Pro 150 from Walmart* that was on sale.
I always wanted to have a grom, but couldn't justify the 133-200% ask price on second hand sites.

I realize that buying a new Vader (X-Pro) with mods, I will come close to that price anyway.

Mine is a 150cc and it's currently in the process of being shipped to me.
I went with the slightly more expensive 150cc, seeing that I'll be using it on rural roads up to 55mph.
I just wanted something with excellent gas mileage, and the thing keeping these bikes from getting even better gas mileage is the gearing.

So my first mod will be, to swap the 14/15 (stock)t front sprocket to a 17T, which will lower torque. I don't want to have a sluggish bike for around town, hence the 150cc.

My second mod would be to reduce the rear sprocket size to as small as allowed. The 34t rear, I'll probably want to swap for a 32 or 30 if it would fit. My current option is rebelgears, which makes hardened aluminum sprockets, and I have had success with a 28T sprocket on another bike for well over 5K miles before selling. The sprocket had minimal wear.
I will want to buy a cheaper, steel sprocket, but don't know where to find a cheap rear sprocket replacement?
My aim with swapping out the front and rear sprockets, is to make 4th gear like stock 5th, allowing me to have a good overdrive gear for when cruising downtown (at 35-55mph), which should increase mpg by about 30% over stock.

3rd mod would be an oil drain bolt replacement to a small valve, or some other solution to draining the oil without needing to take off the exhaust. Any ideas?

4th, I will need to find grade 10 or grade 8 motor mount bolts. I don't know if the 150 uses the same bolts as the 125?

5th, I bought handlebar risers. Slightly cheaper than swapping out the handlebars. All I want is the handlebars to be closer to my body (about 4 to 5 inches up and back), because I'm a tall person.

6th, I will spray paint, and coat the frame with black plastidip, as it's very successful at sniffing out rust and covering it up. We have a plastidip painted steel bench in our yard that hasn't leaked one bit of rust in over 7 years, and looks better than some people's stock bench of 3 months.
The exhaust and engine parts that need corrosion protection, I might spray paint them with high heat thermal spray paint.

I wished I had the skills to weld a third motor mount, but I don't.

7th, I have a lithium 12V battery, I will want to replace the stock battery with.

Lastly, I want to do as little work on it as possible. I'll try to keep the bike under a tent or shaded area, to protect it from the elements, and instead of a better carburetor, I can just play with the choke. My other Chinese 125cc bike has the same issue, where the choke would increase fuel ratio, and where I could feel the bike's performance increase as I dialed in just a tad of choke.

The benefit of this is, that I can run it very lean if I want to (like at slower, non-highway speeds) without any modifications.

My last question is,where does the bike fail most electricall on the harness? I might want to put some extra coating or protection on that area.

Anything else that's highly recommended?

[TominMO]

Just replace the front sprocket and ride it around for a while. You may decide that is the best overall gearing. If you also replace the rear with a smaller one, You may discover that now it has no pull from a dead start--i.e. it is over-geared.

That is a poor exhaust design that makes you loosen the exhaust bolts just to change the oil. (You don't actually have to remove the exhaust to change oil.) If you go with an aftermarket full exhaust, maybe it won't be in the way of the drain plug.

[ProDigit]

I've done the same in the past with a roketa bike.
Basically, I will want to achieve top speed in 4th (4th gear equal 5th stock); and in 5th gear I just want to cruise at lower speeds, and lower rpm.

My roketa used to occasionally have a slipping clutch (wet clutch) with the high gear ratio at wot in final gear.
I'm not going to do that on this bike.

The engine won't know the difference between 4th and stock 5th, as the overall gear ratio is the same.
From online, the 150 should do about 65-70mph tops. That is in 5th gear stock rear sprocket, or 4th gear modded.
I plan on mainly cruising at 35-55mph in 5th gear, so it's not really lugging the engine. Engine gets lugged more in stock 4th or 5th gear during acceleration, than modded in 5th for cruising.

The 125 I had before ran really wonderfully at 2.5k rpm at 40mph. I doubt I can gear the 150 that low; but will if I can.

My pet peeve with the roketa 125 (probably same engine and transmission specs as a gen 1 Vader 125), is that at those sprocket ratios, you really need an extra gear. And the 125 wasn't accelerating fast enough to keep up with traffic, unless I'd rev it all the way to 5k rpm..

I'm fairly sure this 150cc can handle it, especially with the extra (5th) gear.

[ProDigit]

I'm just wondering if we need specific motorcycle oil, or we can get the 10W40 car oil?

Also wondering what oil drain bolt to buy? 14 or 12mm?

Third, do frame sliders fit?

Lastly, I have big hands, and will want some sort of grip sleeves, that will make the handlebars grips wider.

[ProDigit]

Does anyone know if the Vader 125/150, Condor X-Pro 150 use a wet clutch or a dry clutch?

[delzy]

RPS Condor 150 is the same as the X-Pro 150. Wet Clutch. You don't have to worry about the motor mount bolts because it has the front mount plate on the frame/engine. Top speed is about 50 with the stock sprockets. The exhaust you need is anything for the KPT or KPM 200. You need two crush gaskets because the angle is still a little off. I found my bike wouldn't idle good because the boot at the carburetor cable didn't seal up. Here is my bike: https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=33747

[ProDigit]

Originally Posted by delzy

RPS Condor 150 is the same as the X-Pro 150. Wet Clutch. You don't have to worry about the motor mount bolts because it has the front mount plate on the frame/engine. Top speed is about 50 with the stock sprockets. The exhaust you need is anything for the KPT or KPM 200. You need two crush gaskets because the angle is still a little off. I found my bike wouldn't idle good because the boot at the carburetor cable didn't seal up. Here is my bike: https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=33747

Thanks. I prefer a quiet exhaust. I was even thinking of a possible future project, welding 2 mufflers in series.

There is a possibility that changing carburetor and jet sizes, that the bike will run less lean at WOT, and may affect the sound. I know running lean makes the exhaust sound more hollow.