Boom Vader Carb Upgrade Question

[Bud]

Hi, I have a Boom Vader on order and want to upgrade to a VM22 carburetor right away. My question is can I simply remove the stock carb and install the VM22 carb when putting my new bike together? I read if u take the carb off when the gas is off the bike shuts of the gas in general? How do I make sure my gas is set to ON before I install the new VM22 carb? Do I need to run the bike with the stock carb and then do the upgrade?

[Deckard_Cain]

Originally Posted by Bud

Hi, I have a Boom Vader on order and want to upgrade to a VM22 carburetor right away. My question is can I simply remove the stock carb and install the VM22 carb when putting my new bike together? I read if u take the carb off when the gas is off the bike shuts of the gas in general? How do I make sure my gas is set to ON before I install the new VM22 carb? Do I need to run the bike with the stock carb and then do the upgrade?

First off, just get it running with the stock carb, just to function check everything first. The stock carb isn't any part of the final assembly, so it's already all put together. Changing it upon assembly is introducing one more unknown variable that if you encounter starting or running issues right out of the gate, will make it a real pain to diagnose.

I'm not sure I follow your question about the bike shutting off the gas in general. The stock carb has the fuel shutoff valve built into it, there is no external valve. So if you pull the stock carb completely off, you'll need to pinch off or plug the fuel feed line.

I put an external fuel valve on mine to be able to shut off the gas and service the vm22 carburetor without issue.

To make sure the fuel is ON, the valve handle is vertical. If you install the vm22 without a new fuel valve, then the gas will always be on. Makes it so that when you drain the float bowl to change jets, it'll drain forever until the tank is empty- clearly not what you want. Again, you'd have to either pinch off the line (which can damage it), or pull it off and plug it. Easier to use a $4 fuel petcock and just turn it off.

So yes, I'd get it all assembled, oil changed, levers and cables adjusted, valves adjusted, get it running and dialed in. Test ride it for at least a few miles and make sure she's copacetic.

THEN, go bawls wild on your upgrades. I'd still recommend changing only one thing per major system at a time, test and function check, then go onto the next thing.

Nothing sucks more than changing 10 things on the bike and then something doesn't work right and you have no idea where the issue is because you changed so much at once.

[Bud]

Originally Posted by Deckard_Cain

First off, just get it running with the stock carb, just to function check everything first. The stock carb isn't any part of the final assembly, so it's already all put together. Changing it upon assembly is introducing one more unknown variable that if you encounter starting or running issues right out of the gate, will make it a real pain to diagnose.

I'm not sure I follow your question about the bike shutting off the gas in general. The stock carb has the fuel shutoff valve built into it, there is no external valve. So if you pull the stock carb completely off, you'll need to pinch off or plug the fuel feed line.

I put an external fuel valve on mine to be able to shut off the gas and service the vm22 carburetor without issue.

To make sure the fuel is ON, the valve handle is vertical. If you install the vm22 without a new fuel valve, then the gas will always be on. Makes it so that when you drain the float bowl to change jets, it'll drain forever until the tank is empty- clearly not what you want. Again, you'd have to either pinch off the line (which can damage it), or pull it off and plug it. Easier to use a $4 fuel petcock and just turn it off.

So yes, I'd get it all assembled, oil changed, levers and cables adjusted, valves adjusted, get it running and dialed in. Test ride it for at least a few miles and make sure she's copacetic.

THEN, go bawls wild on your upgrades. I'd still recommend changing only one thing per major system at a time, test and function check, then go onto the next thing.

Nothing sucks more than changing 10 things on the bike and then something doesn't work right and you have no idea where the issue is because you changed so much at once.

Thank you very much for the reply you answered all my questions and sounds good. That's an excellent idea about the fuel petcock I'm defiantly going to install one.

Any suggestions on what grade and brand oil I should use? Do I need to change a oil filter also? Also how much oil does the Boom Vader take?

I know exactly what you mean about changing more than one thing at a time, I unfortunately did that before with my BMW it makes troubleshooting things a lot more difficult. Thanks again for the info.

[Big Bird]

Originally Posted by Bud

Any suggestions on what grade and brand oil I should use? Do I need to change a oil filter also? Also how much oil does the Boom Vader take?

Any 10w-40 motorcycle oil or Shell Rotella T4 15w-40. No filter. The engine has a oil spinner which needs to be cleaned every 8k miles or so. It uses just under a quart.

[Bud]

Originally Posted by Big Bird

Any 10w-40 motorcycle oil or Shell Rotella T4 15w-40. No filter. The engine has a oil spinner which needs to be cleaned every 8k miles or so. It uses just under a quart.

Thanks for the info.

[GScott]

oil that meets the JASO MA specs are safe for wet clutches.

[Deckard_Cain]

Originally Posted by Bud

Thank you very much for the reply you answered all my questions and sounds good. That's an excellent idea about the fuel petcock I'm defiantly going to install one.

Any suggestions on what grade and brand oil I should use? Do I need to change a oil filter also? Also how much oil does the Boom Vader take?

I know exactly what you mean about changing more than one thing at a time, I unfortunately did that before with my BMW it makes troubleshooting things a lot more difficult. Thanks again for the info.

Originally Posted by Big Bird

Any 10w-40 motorcycle oil or Shell Rotella T4 15w-40. No filter. The engine has a oil spinner which needs to be cleaned every 8k miles or so. It uses just under a quart.

There's also a small flat oil filter screen near the bottom of the case on the right side.

I'd probably clean that out after a few hundred miles at your second oil change. I'd expect some clutch material build up in there after break in. After that, probably just clean it every 1000 or 3000 miles.

I use Rotella T4 15w40 in my Ninja 250, Hawk 250, Vader 125, and my Yamaha XS850. As long as it's JASO MA, SF/SG grade.. .not energy-conserving, you'll be fine.

The Vader uses about 850-900ml. Just under a qt. I drained the "oil" that came in it, which didn't look bad at all and may have actually been real engine oil; and I drained out 850ml. So I put 850ml of my oil back in before first start up.

[GScott]

Originally Posted by Bud

Hi, I have a Boom Vader on order and want to upgrade to a VM22 carburetor right away. My question is can I simply remove the stock carb and install the VM22 carb when putting my new bike together? I read if u take the carb off when the gas is off the bike shuts of the gas in general? How do I make sure my gas is set to ON before I install the new VM22 carb? Do I need to run the bike with the stock carb and then do the upgrade?

I know this is late, but I tried to replace the stock PC20 with a PZ22, for a straight swap to keep the stock airbox. No dice. Even this tiny increase in inlet size meant the carb would not clear the starter with the stock manifold in stock position. Didn't figure it was worth it to buy a new manifold or spinner to make it work, so returned it.

So I would venture to guess there is no larger than stock that will fit without modifications.

[Yungditty]

What’s up guys, I bought a 24mm Nibbi carb for the Vader. The stock manifold seems too low since it’s hitting the engine. Does anybody have a good recommendation for an after market intake manifold.