New X-Pro Templar 250 rider

[WindMindMusic]

Hello, new Templar rider here. I’ve got about 400 miles on mine. Dayton, Ohio area, for farm use and errands and fun. Plated and insured, I got a big cheesy windscreen on it and a 16T front and I want to get to 70mph sometimes so I’m wondering what everybody thinks I should rejet the carb to, or what aftermarket carbs would be recommended? Thanks.

[Zapkin]

They will probably recommend you change the rear sprocket to something smaller or get a larger front. How hard was it to mount that windscreen?

[WindMindMusic]

Originally Posted by Zapkin

They will probably recommend you change the rear sprocket to something smaller or get a larger front. How hard was it to mount that windscreen?

Super easy, it’s just handlebar armature, solid and snug, like a mix between a Vespa scooter and a Honda Rebel setup.

I’ve got a 16T front and I’m getting to 67mph but I need about 10% more power. I can hit 55 in 4th, so I know the gearing is good.

[buzz]

Hello Me from Dayton Pa. just wanted to say hi,and good luck with your new bike. Wished i would bought one like yours.

[Thumper]

Temp M comes with the venerable, and AWESOME ZS172FMM-3A (visible on the stamp behind the gear shift). It has a 13T front sprocket.

I had to grind down the cast alloy shroud just to mount a 14T 520 sprocket.

Can you a pic of your 16T (!) mount?!? It must be TIGHT!

[Texas Pete]

You won’t increase horsepower by rejetting the carb. Your top end speed is reduced by the things you are hanging off your bike, panniers, bags, windscreens, tall and wide riders etc.

If you want to increase horsepower you need to put more fuel and more air into a given volume of engine. Fuel is easy to increase, air is more difficult to get in. Think super charger, turbo charger, nitrous oxide, etc. to get significant air increase to get a noticeable horsepower increase when fuel is increased. Or an easier way install a larger cylinder and piston to increase volume inside the engine at normal barometric pressures. Or the easiest way, buy a bike with a bigger engine already in it.

What you can do is play with shifting the torque band left and right across the existing horsepower band by retarding or advancing the timing—what you gain on one side you lose on the other side. You’ve already played with the gearing. In generalization a tooth change in the front sprocket is equal to three teeth change on the rear sprocket. I don’t have an M but having an X I was impressed you got a 16 on your front. Our X’s can go up one tooth on the front sprocket and that’s it with or without some grinding required to get clearance. I got a 40 tooth rear and will leave my front factory 13 teeth. If you notice going down 49 rear to 40 is a 9 tooth change. Going up 13 front to 16 from is a 3 tooth change and multiply by 3 and you get 9. Same effective net.

If your throttle response is bogging, or stuttering or the bike is popping on deacceleration you can clean those up with rejetting your carburetor. With the X it’s usually running lean out of the box I bumped my jets from #120 main to #125 main, #40 idle to #42 idle; and 1mm needle shim. In general you want it to run stoic to a little rich. Rejetting or buying another carburetor is not going to make you faster in your top end or give you more horsepower.

[Hap]

Originally Posted by WindMindMusic

Super easy, it’s just handlebar armature, solid and snug, like a mix between a Vespa scooter and a Honda Rebel setup.

I’ve got a 16T front and I’m getting to 67mph but I need about 10% more power. I can hit 55 in 4th, so I know the gearing is good.

16T front sprocket is the largest I’ve heard put on the Templar. Did it fit without too much trouble?

[WindMindMusic]

Originally Posted by buzz

Hello Me from Dayton Pa. just wanted to say hi,and good luck with your new bike. Wished i would bought one like yours.

Hello! Thank you.

[WindMindMusic]

Originally Posted by Thumper

Temp M comes with the venerable, and AWESOME ZS172FMM-3A (visible on the stamp behind the gear shift). It has a 13T front sprocket.

I had to grind down the cast alloy shroud just to mount a 14T 520 sprocket.

Can you a pic of your 16T (!) mount?!? It must be TIGHT!

I’ll post a pic soon. I carefully dremeled down 1 inch in the guard and the clearance is very tight, and I’m running a 1/4”-1/2” slack chain because of it. I took it slow at first. Yesterday I put 40 miles on it at speed.

[WindMindMusic]

Originally Posted by Texas Pete

You won’t increase horsepower by rejetting the carb. Your top end speed is reduced by the things you are hanging off your bike, panniers, bags, windscreens, tall and wide riders etc.

If you want to increase horsepower you need to put more fuel and more air into a given volume of engine. Fuel is easy to increase, air is more difficult to get in. Think super charger, turbo charger, nitrous oxide, etc. to get significant air increase to get a noticeable horsepower increase when fuel is increased. Or an easier way install a larger cylinder and piston to increase volume inside the engine at normal barometric pressures. Or the easiest way, buy a bike with a bigger engine already in it.

What you can do is play with shifting the torque band left and right across the existing horsepower band by retarding or advancing the timing—what you gain on one side you lose on the other side. You’ve already played with the gearing. In generalization a tooth change in the front sprocket is equal to three teeth change on the rear sprocket. I don’t have an M but having an X I was impressed you got a 16 on your front. Our X’s can go up one tooth on the front sprocket and that’s it with or without some grinding required to get clearance. I got a 40 tooth rear and will leave my front factory 13 teeth. If you notice going down 49 rear to 40 is a 9 tooth change. Going up 13 front to 16 from is a 3 tooth change and multiply by 3 and you get 9. Same effective net.

If your throttle response is bogging, or stuttering or the bike is popping on deacceleration you can clean those up with rejetting your carburetor. With the X it’s usually running lean out of the box I bumped my jets from #120 main to #125 main, #40 idle to #42 idle; and 1mm needle shim. In general you want it to run stoic to a little rich. Rejetting or buying another carburetor is not going to make you faster in your top end or give you more horsepower.

Indeed it seems to be running lean. I have to choke it for a minute even during warm days. Then it gets a bit gutless from 75-100% throttle.

As for tall and wide riders, I’ve tried washing myself on cold and drying myself on hot, but it doesn’t work.

[WindMindMusic]

Originally Posted by Hap

16T front sprocket is the largest I’ve heard put on the Templar. Did it fit without too much trouble?

Considering how much custom fitments (figments?) I have to imagine and create to get my farm and tractor equipment to work, plus the other 5 vehicles and dump trailer and everything I have, this was a cinch. Main problem was my anxiety about removing some essential things like maybe a wall for an oiler cavity, but it moves great and makes no additional noises so I’m hoping it’s running happily inside its new home.