Raven won't start.. but has spark

Jester · 10-23-2022, 10:18 PM

Alright 2020 raven about 5500 miles has been giving me trouble lately I've had to push start it and I don't dare turn it off u less I'm home.. barely made it back last time I road it... So now no spark, i installed new solenoid, push button as mine seemed to disintegrate while I was checking connection, and a new stator swapped out an old and hard turning starter for one with more life and it turns much easier battery is dead and I ordered a replacement but in the mean time I was able to jump it but now it won't pop off , it has spark cranks and cranks, the push button only worked for 5 mins the light dims Like it sending power but the button won't turn over the starter, so jumping the solenoid cranks her over no problem. I don't like doing it but so be it if it means getting her started..... Clutch in and in Neutral, screw driver on solenoid and just giving a lil throttle causes the cranking to become much slower(bad coil?) Let off gas and it turns over fast with a slap slap slap, I'm thinking starter clutch? starter clutch not turning freely or the wrong way but seems stuck behind flywheel I thought it was supposed to turn freely one way and if bad both ways... Also some times the kick starter feels " stuck" and instead of nicely kicking down it's like kicking through through mud and bike wants to move forward like it's in gear or something a quick short kick and a clik and back to kicking as normal.....before I go throw more parts at it I was curious if anyone had any opinions or similar problems? Thanks for the help

Could tight valves cause this? I haven't checked them since around 3000 miles maybe a new cdi or rectifier might solve?

clash 168cc · 10-23-2022, 10:27 PM

If it doesn't have spark. Try spark plug tester then coil then CDI and valves.

XLsior · 10-23-2022, 11:36 PM

The start sprag clutch ie one way only correct. If it was locking up the effect would be the starter always engaged. They can play up before failing completely.

If the starter is in an always engaged situation then it will fight back against kick starts as you might have experienced.

if you remove the starter transfer gear cover and transfer gear you should have enough access to the sprag clutch ring gear to pry up and down to be able to see if it it free spins one way but engages in the other...

culcune · 10-24-2022, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jester

Could tight valves cause this? I haven't checked them since around 3000 miles maybe a new cdi or rectifier might solve?

2500 miles? Yes, adjust for sure regardless. CDI are a simple 'fix' as well--couldn't hurt to have a spare around if it wasn't the problem. Spark plug itself? Not sure if you checked the plug for fouling, and what brand is it (stock or NGK aftermarket)?

Clash 168cc has a good order of things...

Thumper · 10-25-2022, 09:14 AM

"screw driver on solenoid and just giving a lil throttle causes the cranking to become much slower"

IF the starter has an internal partial grounding, it will reduce the power to the armature, with the symptoms you describe. This happened on a brand new starter for me. But it is easy to test and fix.

To test...remove the starter, ground the casing (neg pole of battery) and test the starter by connecting to positive pole (bench test, or use a car battery).

The starter should respond with a powerful instant spin. If it is sluggish, or you feel any grinding, or uneven spin rate, there is your problem. These starters have a stationary output gear (don't push out by bendix/solenoid like on most cars).

I disassembled mine, found that the brush mounting plate had burn/black marks on a place where it was making intermittent contact with the armature. I used a dremel to thin it out there, cleaned it, applied dielectric grease to the area, and the place on the armature where it was making contact.

Reassembly after applying grease to the end bushings, and I have a brand new perfect/powerful starter. Totally fixed the starting problem-instant starts now. This was a manufacturing defect, but could appear after a couple thousand miles as well.

10-23-2022, 10:18 PM	#1
Jester Join Date: Sep 2020 Posts: 16	Raven won't start.. but has spark Alright 2020 raven about 5500 miles has been giving me trouble lately I've had to push start it and I don't dare turn it off u less I'm home.. barely made it back last time I road it... So now no spark, i installed new solenoid, push button as mine seemed to disintegrate while I was checking connection, and a new stator swapped out an old and hard turning starter for one with more life and it turns much easier battery is dead and I ordered a replacement but in the mean time I was able to jump it but now it won't pop off , it has spark cranks and cranks, the push button only worked for 5 mins the light dims Like it sending power but the button won't turn over the starter, so jumping the solenoid cranks her over no problem. I don't like doing it but so be it if it means getting her started..... Clutch in and in Neutral, screw driver on solenoid and just giving a lil throttle causes the cranking to become much slower(bad coil?) Let off gas and it turns over fast with a slap slap slap, I'm thinking starter clutch? starter clutch not turning freely or the wrong way but seems stuck behind flywheel I thought it was supposed to turn freely one way and if bad both ways... Also some times the kick starter feels " stuck" and instead of nicely kicking down it's like kicking through through mud and bike wants to move forward like it's in gear or something a quick short kick and a clik and back to kicking as normal.....before I go throw more parts at it I was curious if anyone had any opinions or similar problems? Thanks for the help Could tight valves cause this? I haven't checked them since around 3000 miles maybe a new cdi or rectifier might solve?
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10-25-2022, 09:14 AM	#5
Thumper Join Date: Feb 2021 Location: Kansas City Posts: 2,734	starter issue? "screw driver on solenoid and just giving a lil throttle causes the cranking to become much slower" IF the starter has an internal partial grounding, it will reduce the power to the armature, with the symptoms you describe. This happened on a brand new starter for me. But it is easy to test and fix. To test...remove the starter, ground the casing (neg pole of battery) and test the starter by connecting to positive pole (bench test, or use a car battery). The starter should respond with a powerful instant spin. If it is sluggish, or you feel any grinding, or uneven spin rate, there is your problem. These starters have a stationary output gear (don't push out by bendix/solenoid like on most cars). I disassembled mine, found that the brush mounting plate had burn/black marks on a place where it was making intermittent contact with the armature. I used a dremel to thin it out there, cleaned it, applied dielectric grease to the area, and the place on the armature where it was making contact. Reassembly after applying grease to the end bushings, and I have a brand new perfect/powerful starter. Totally fixed the starting problem-instant starts now. This was a manufacturing defect, but could appear after a couple thousand miles as well.
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10-23-2022, 10:27 PM	#2
clash 168cc Join Date: Jul 2022 Posts: 94	If it doesn't have spark. Try spark plug tester then coil then CDI and valves.
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10-23-2022, 11:36 PM	#3
XLsior Join Date: Aug 2020 Location: Australia Posts: 1,444	The start sprag clutch ie one way only correct. If it was locking up the effect would be the starter always engaged. They can play up before failing completely. If the starter is in an always engaged situation then it will fight back against kick starts as you might have experienced. if you remove the starter transfer gear cover and transfer gear you should have enough access to the sprag clutch ring gear to pry up and down to be able to see if it it free spins one way but engages in the other...
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