Should I Get A Hawk DLX !!!!

[AJ22_ChinaRider]

Originally Posted by CSR_Sprocket

The DLX model has many improvements over the "normal" Hawk 250 and IMO you can't beat it for the money. Many of the upgrades that people make on their not DLX models are already done. Like a backlit digital instrument cluster that gives you a tach in addition to a speedo and fuel gauge. The base model may have a fuel gauge - I can't remember since I sold my 2015 a few years back...

The electronic fuel injection on the DLX means that you'll never need to mess with replacing and tuning the carb (or draining the carb for storage, though I do recommend adding Stabil to the gas before you put it up for the winter).

The titanium exhaust on the DLX will never rust and is more free-flowing, quite a bit louder (though not obnoxious), and darned good to look at. Free-flowing means that more air can get into the cylinder on the intake stroke. The EFI brain compensates for the additional air adds more fuel into the mixture. Which makes for more power. Which makes us go ZOOM!

The black enameled rims are a nice touch.The tires on the DLX are more road friendly. The knobbies that came on my 2015 base model were extremely aggressive. I don't like drifting around corners. Knobbies give you a smaller contact patch on pavement which means that you slide a bit sideways when going around corners. The DLX tires are aggressive enough for occasional off road riding, but not for anything motocross or enduro race events. For example, I discourage anyone with the stock DLX tires from trying to climb up a very steep hill made of loose dirt and rocks. I tried that and it didn't turn out so well )-:

I believe that the DLX engine has a slightly lower compression ratio which, combined with the EFI and exhaust, provide more torque. I have my DLX geared 17/40 and often see the speedo at 70 MPH on flat sections of the Interstate. First is a bit steep, but low enough to tackle casual off-roading.

As for the seat height, the problem is the same for both models. As is the sidestand angle, which lends itself to the bike falling over when parked on soft material like a lawn. You can remedy both of these by installing a shorter shock. Since you'll need to attach a shock during your assembly, that's the time to install install something shorter. I have a 28" inseam and have not been able to flat-foot most of the bikes that I've owned. So the first thing that I did to my DLX was replace the stock shock with a nitrogen charged unit that is 280mm (measured between the center of the bushings) I needed to buy one or two bushings to adapt the shock to the bike's mounting bolts. I can't remember exactly what the size they are or where I ordered them from. There's at least one thread on this board that provides those details.



The short story is: I can now flat foot the bike. I still can't just throw a leg over it to get on. Rather, I mount it like a horse. I leave the kickstand down and use the left foot peg at a stirrup.

All in all, I think that the extra $600+ is totally worth it.
BTW, a shorter shock means that the bike doesn't lean over at such a radical angle when on the side stand. The "too short a kick stand" applies to both the "regular" Hawk and the DLX model (I've owned both).

wow...lot of info..ty!