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#16 |
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: George West, Texas
Posts: 4,097
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First the speedos now the fuel gauge. Very conservative
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***************************************** 2015 Bashan"Blaze" BS250GY-31 (DB-07K-250) GONE 2017 Suzuki V Strom 650 XT "We are all born ignorant, but one must work hard to remain stupid." ~Benjamin Franklin~
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#17 |
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 583
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I removed the sender from the tank, took the 90 degree bend closest to the float and made it a 45 degree bend. I also took the bend closest to the sender and bent it such that the float is centered between the outside of the tank and the U.
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#18 |
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 40
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Hi PC.... I'm brand new to motorcycles and am helping my daughter with her new Hawk250. So far, so good...learning a TON!
What is the "sender", where is it, and how is it removed? After the float adjustments did you put the sender back in place? Thank you.... |
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#19 |
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Carrollton, GA
Posts: 1,467
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I've had mine for almost two years, and I can happily say that Matt's digital cluster is worth the money. Never had a problem with it, and it comes with pretty decent instructions on how to set up the gear indicator wiring. Took me all of about an hour to remove the old setup and install the digital unit. I would highly recommend. As for the fuel gauge, that's a different story. It reads full for about the first half of the tank, then very quickly goes down to E. Not the fault of the digital display unit, just one of the quirks of Chinese manufacturing and QA. I tend to go about 150 miles before I start looking for a gas station. So far I'm averaging about 65-70 miles per gallon on the bike, and that's with mostly around town errands and such. I run QT premium fuel as exclusively as I can, but regardless of the brand, it's always premium. I do the occasional long haul where I'm at WOT for several miles, but it doesn't seem to impact the fuel economy too much. I run a 17/39 sprocket setup, and about 60'ish MPH (GPS verified) is really all it's got. Whoever said that the stock knobbies were sketchy at speed absolutely hit that nail on the head. I think that when I burn these tires out and get switched over to a set of Shinko 705's (what I run on my DR), the bike will be much easier to handle, and possible gain a few MPH without all the interference from the knobbies. That's likely to be a project I handle in the next four or five months.
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First Rule of Aviation: -Never Pass Up The Opportunity to Pee I was struggling to get my wife's attention; I sat down on the couch and looked comfortable. That did the trick! My wife says I only have two faults. I don't listen and something else... If at first you don't succeed, try doing it the way I told you to... The Stable: 2005 Yamaha V-Star 650 - SOLD 2015 Suzuki DR 650 2015 RPS Hawk 250 - SOLD 2016 Ural Gear Up |
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#20 |
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: robertsdale alabama usa
Posts: 1,007
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the metal "ears" on the sending unit can be bebt till you get accurate readings. it is attached under the tank.
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1991 harley heritage softail classic 2016 hawk kaw h1 400 tripple 13' long chopper in progress 2009 johnny pag bar hog 2004 hd electra glide ultra classic shriner edition 1997 harley davidson 1200 sportster 1972 harley davidson amf sx250 |
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#21 |
Join Date: Mar 2022
Posts: 6
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Mine will read very low to empty at start up. Then after about 10 minutes driving will start to show some fuel, and after about 30 minutes it will read full if my tank is actually near full and rather accurately otherwise. 3 months and 600 miles on bike and no change since day 1. I clearly have some issue where the fuel indicator circuit is being affected by bike temperature, but I have not had the chance to remove the sender and test it yet. Does anyone know when the sender is disconnected from the other electronics if the resistance on the potentiometer increases or decreases with rising level? If not I will report to the community after I pull mine. May be a new thread since this one is very old.
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