Another Broken Hawk Rider- KY

devbug · 09-25-2018, 03:26 PM

Picked up a 2017 Hawk as a temporary dual sport while I shopped for a DRZ. I had pretty low expectations when buying mine used for $900, but while it held up, I was impressed.

The bike had never really been off-road, which was my primary use for it. It had the carb upgraded and different size rear sprocket. It lasted until about 600 miles on the odometer before I started to get some gnarly slipping from the transmission.

I've already picked up a big bore DRZ-434, but the Hawk has been sitting while I try to figure out what's wrong with the transmission. I'm hoping someone here can help figure it out, as all the clutch disks and rings look fine, and the only abnormal well I can tell is on the rod that goes from shifter arm and passes through the engine to (excuse the terms) move the 'bottle-opener-piece' and engage the 'star-shaped-gear'.

FWIW- I went from starting to learn on trails with an XT225, to a KTM530 that was way more than I could ever control, to the Hawk, and now the DRZ-434. Quite a ride.
Link to DRZ- https://i.imgur.com/xmocOzH.jpg
Link to XT- https://i.imgur.com/YNyebBe.jpg
Link to KTM- https://i.imgur.com/MRvrc0V.jpg

Bruces · 09-25-2018, 03:44 PM

What oil did you have in it ?

**JerryHawk250** · 09-25-2018, 03:46 PM

Welcome aboard. What kind of oil are you running in it? Is the oil for wet clutch?

devbug · 09-25-2018, 03:56 PM

I went with a little heavier Yamalube 10w-40 about 50-60 miles prior to the issue starting. I wasnt sure of the weight from the PO, but did some browsing and it looked like the 10w-40 was suggested from several here.

Bruces · 09-25-2018, 04:04 PM

Is the oil JASO MA rated or ? I assume yamalube has different oils and possibly some are not suitable for a wet clutch system

**JerryHawk250** · 09-25-2018, 04:16 PM

What sprockets are you running? To tall gear ratio can put a load on the clutch.

ben2go · 09-25-2018, 05:09 PM

This sure sounds like a PO ditching the bike because the clutch was going out due to using auto oils. If the PO was using auto oils, the clutch pack may need to be replaced and a couple of fairly quick oil changes (every 100 miles 3x) done afterward using a good moto oil. Want to make sure there is none left in the engine, or if there is it is so diluted that it can't hurt the clutch components. The steel plates, as well as the frictions discs, will absorb the friction modifiers found in auto oils. They will leech back out of the steel plates if they aren't changed too. That's the whole point of friction modifiers to get into the steel surfaces and slow friction wear way down. A good brake cleaner should clean up the pressure plate.

devbug · 09-25-2018, 07:18 PM

Thanks for the quick tips, however, this seems to be something different, or in addition to oil. I've got issues with the shifter not always wanting to go in gear, and there is some wear happening on the end of the bar that the shifter arm sits on. More specifically, the end of that bar where it meets the clutch cover itself. Both are worn and shiny. Can post photos as it's still apart. Clutch packs and steel rings actually look really good, or not different from any other serviceable ones I've had a look at on anything else.

09-25-2018, 03:26 PM	#1
devbug Join Date: Sep 2018 Posts: 7	Another Broken Hawk Rider- KY Picked up a 2017 Hawk as a temporary dual sport while I shopped for a DRZ. I had pretty low expectations when buying mine used for $900, but while it held up, I was impressed. The bike had never really been off-road, which was my primary use for it. It had the carb upgraded and different size rear sprocket. It lasted until about 600 miles on the odometer before I started to get some gnarly slipping from the transmission. I've already picked up a big bore DRZ-434, but the Hawk has been sitting while I try to figure out what's wrong with the transmission. I'm hoping someone here can help figure it out, as all the clutch disks and rings look fine, and the only abnormal well I can tell is on the rod that goes from shifter arm and passes through the engine to (excuse the terms) move the 'bottle-opener-piece' and engage the 'star-shaped-gear'. FWIW- I went from starting to learn on trails with an XT225, to a KTM530 that was way more than I could ever control, to the Hawk, and now the DRZ-434. Quite a ride. Link to DRZ- https://i.imgur.com/xmocOzH.jpg Link to XT- https://i.imgur.com/YNyebBe.jpg Link to KTM- https://i.imgur.com/MRvrc0V.jpg
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09-25-2018, 03:46 PM	#3
JerryHawk250 Moderator Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Houma, La. Posts: 11,713	Welcome aboard. What kind of oil are you running in it? Is the oil for wet clutch? __________________ 2024 Linhai 300 ATV 4x4 2023 Lifan Lycan 250 Chopper 2023 Venom Evader 2022 Lifan KPX250 2020 Kawasaki Vulcan S (Sold) 2004 Honda ST 1300 2016 Black Hawk 250 (sold) Keihin PE30 carb,125 main,38 slow.Pod filter,ported & decked head 10:1 CR,Direct Ignition Coil,15/40Sprockets,NGK DPR8EIX-9,De-Cat,Dual Oil Cooler,Digital Cluster 2016 Cazador180 XL 2014 Coolster150 JerryHawk250.com My YouTube Channel
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09-25-2018, 04:16 PM	#6
JerryHawk250 Moderator Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Houma, La. Posts: 11,713	What sprockets are you running? To tall gear ratio can put a load on the clutch. __________________ 2024 Linhai 300 ATV 4x4 2023 Lifan Lycan 250 Chopper 2023 Venom Evader 2022 Lifan KPX250 2020 Kawasaki Vulcan S (Sold) 2004 Honda ST 1300 2016 Black Hawk 250 (sold) Keihin PE30 carb,125 main,38 slow.Pod filter,ported & decked head 10:1 CR,Direct Ignition Coil,15/40Sprockets,NGK DPR8EIX-9,De-Cat,Dual Oil Cooler,Digital Cluster 2016 Cazador180 XL 2014 Coolster150 JerryHawk250.com My YouTube Channel
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09-25-2018, 03:44 PM	#2
Bruces Join Date: May 2018 Posts: 1,650	What oil did you have in it ?
	1

09-25-2018, 03:56 PM	#4
devbug Join Date: Sep 2018 Posts: 7	I went with a little heavier Yamalube 10w-40 about 50-60 miles prior to the issue starting. I wasnt sure of the weight from the PO, but did some browsing and it looked like the 10w-40 was suggested from several here.
	0

09-25-2018, 04:04 PM	#5
Bruces Join Date: May 2018 Posts: 1,650	Is the oil JASO MA rated or ? I assume yamalube has different oils and possibly some are not suitable for a wet clutch system
	0

09-25-2018, 05:09 PM	#7
ben2go Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,335	This sure sounds like a PO ditching the bike because the clutch was going out due to using auto oils. If the PO was using auto oils, the clutch pack may need to be replaced and a couple of fairly quick oil changes (every 100 miles 3x) done afterward using a good moto oil. Want to make sure there is none left in the engine, or if there is it is so diluted that it can't hurt the clutch components. The steel plates, as well as the frictions discs, will absorb the friction modifiers found in auto oils. They will leech back out of the steel plates if they aren't changed too. That's the whole point of friction modifiers to get into the steel surfaces and slow friction wear way down. A good brake cleaner should clean up the pressure plate.
	2

09-25-2018, 07:18 PM	#8
devbug Join Date: Sep 2018 Posts: 7	Thanks for the quick tips, however, this seems to be something different, or in addition to oil. I've got issues with the shifter not always wanting to go in gear, and there is some wear happening on the end of the bar that the shifter arm sits on. More specifically, the end of that bar where it meets the clutch cover itself. Both are worn and shiny. Can post photos as it's still apart. Clutch packs and steel rings actually look really good, or not different from any other serviceable ones I've had a look at on anything else.
	0