Coolster Kodiak Electrical issue?

[Adub94]

Hello all! I have a Coolster Kodiak I bought for my boys and I'm having a little issue with that I cannot figure out.

I've replaced the battery, coil, plug and solenoid. But the machine is still having issues. All I can do is spray starting fluid in the carb to get it to turn over. When the machine turns over and starts, it's followed by 3-4 pops while on the throttle and it stalls out again. After the pops there is a slight electrical smell as well.

I really want to get this thing going for my son so any help on what part I may need or a simple fix is greatly appreciated!

Thank you!

[BlackBike]

Originally Posted by Adub94

Hello all! I have a Coolster Kodiak I bought for my boys and I'm having a little issue with that I cannot figure out.

I've replaced the battery, coil, plug and solenoid. But the machine is still having issues. All I can do is spray starting fluid in the carb to get it to turn over. When the machine turns over and starts, it's followed by 3-4 pops while on the throttle and it stalls out again. After the pops there is a slight electrical smell as well.

I really want to get this thing going for my son so any help on what part I may need or a simple fix is greatly appreciated!

Thank you!

You may need to remove the carb and check for contamination or float problem. Sometimes even just removing the carb and fiddling with it can solve the problem if there is trash. Have a spray carb cleaner can handy. For the quick and easy (may not necessarily work) would be to shut off the tank flow and pull the fuel line to the carb. Open the bowel drain on the carb and flow thru some spray carb cleaner thru the carb. Mabye even let the cleaner stand in the carb for awhile (could melt the gaskets if too long).Replace the fuel line and open the fuel flow again untill fuel comes back out of the bowel drain. Close the drain and see if any results. Caution against getting straight carb cleaner ignition in the cylinder so be sure to get the fuel replaced thru the carb before attempting restart. May not do much good since unless it's running it won't draw the cleaner thru the jets so probably would need to check those anyway.

The other issue may be the valve adjustment.

I wonder if the electric smell is just coming from the starter or the relay after being taxed after multiple starting attempts.

These motors when running properly usually start on the first touch of the button.

[Adub94]

ok so here is a little more info that i just noticed.

It seems the loud popping sound is coming from around the spark plug. I put a NGK plug in there so i doubt its the plug but when i try stating it with the plug removed (but still attached to the plug wire) i see zero spark but I'm not sure how that could be the case as i can at least get the engine started for a couple of seconds.

What I've noticed is the popping only happens when I'm on the throttle. If i start it and continuously spray the air filter with starting fluid it will continue to run until i stop spraying. It dies out shortly after i stop spraying.

Would your recommendation still be relevant with these new details? if so I will go try what you suggested.

Thanks!

[BlackBike]

Originally Posted by Adub94

ok so here is a little more info that i just noticed.

It seems the loud popping sound is coming from around the spark plug. I put a NGK plug in there so i doubt its the plug but when i try stating it with the plug removed (but still attached to the plug wire) i see zero spark but I'm not sure how that could be the case as i can at least get the engine started for a couple of seconds.

What I've noticed is the popping only happens when I'm on the throttle. If i start it and continuously spray the air filter with starting fluid it will continue to run until i stop spraying. It dies out shortly after i stop spraying.

Would your recommendation still be relevant with these new details? if so I will go try what you suggested.

Thanks!

Sounds like your having to nurse the carb by spraying fuel (ie starter fluid) directly into carb intake to keep running? Therefore , not getting atomized flow from the jets will cause it to puke,spit, fart out of sequence . Sounds like trashy carb . You can have the carb out in 15 m or less. Pulling the bowel cover on the bottom of the carb to clean the inside depends if it has screws or sealed rivets. The older units will probably have the 3 screws to gain easy access. You'll get it. I would try to get it at least idling decently before working about other sounds.

[BlackBike]

The only thing you haven't replaced is the cdi ignition module which could result in intermitant spark on the plug. Also check the wires for frame groundouts which might cause a mis pop etc. Old pinched wires exposed to the frame or each other etc.

http:/process /www.dansmc.com/MC_repaircourse.htm

https://www.buggydepot.com/tech-cent...uide-no-spark/

https://www.kazumaracing.com/trouble...s-p-13392.html

[Numbrseven]

Mine had the same problem when brand new and it was the carb. The dealer said the mfr puts some kind of coating in the gas tank and it comes off and plugs the jets in the carb. It doesn't take much junk to plug a jet. Mine had sealed screws so I could not take it apart to clean it. I replaced it and it ran fine again. My new carb does have the screws so I can take it apart and clean it should the issue arise again. If you can take the carb apart to clean it, I'd do that because it's essentially no cost but 30 minutes total time. If you have to buy a new carb, they're only like $20.