10-02-2016, 10:59 PM | #1 |
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 51
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Coolant leaking out of bleeder hole
I got coolant leaking out of my bleeder hole and want to see if anyone knew how I should go about fixing it. I did remove the right side crank case about a month ago using directions from CSC as I tightened and loctited the crankshaft nut. Currently I've unscrewed the water pump thinking I need to start there. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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10-02-2016, 11:47 PM | #2 |
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 51
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I now have the water pump impeller removed and wondering how I can get the water pump shaft out without damaging the seals.
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10-03-2016, 04:34 PM | #3 |
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 51
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So after messaging with Gerry, the seals in the water pump needs to be replaced. Not sure how many have done this but it seems like an impossible task. The frustration is getting better of me and after I get this fixed, I'm selling it. Yup, don't want to deal with impossible tasks that's involved with maintaining this bike. Don't want to deal with it any more.
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10-03-2016, 05:11 PM | #4 |
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 59
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The "bleeder" is called a weep hole. It's there to let you know the seals are out. Just replace the entire pump.
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10-03-2016, 10:21 PM | #5 | |
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: George West, Texas
Posts: 4,097
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Quote:
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10-03-2016, 11:26 PM | #6 | |
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Milpitas, CA. USA
Posts: 775
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Quote:
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10-04-2016, 02:36 PM | #8 |
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portsmouth, Virginia, USA
Posts: 632
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OK, how much of a PITA was this after all? I'm asking because OP made it sound near impossible for mere mortals. Was this just frustration speaking or was it major surgery best left to a professional shop with lots of special tools?
Peter Y. |
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10-04-2016, 04:13 PM | #9 |
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Arvada, CO
Posts: 1,004
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I'm not a mechanic, but I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last week ...
Seriously though, I have never worked on the water pump, but difficult seals can usually be removed with a dental pick. Some people screw a small screw into the seal, then use pliers to pull it out. Others carefully drill through the seal and use the hole to fish it out. The risk is damaging the metal behind the seal. I realize I'm commenting after you already finished the job. Please let us know how you removed the seal and how difficult it was.
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Red 5 standing by! 2015 CSC red RX3 with 19" front wheel, Shinko 804/805, skid plate, tall seat, 13T/45T sprockets, progressive shock, Winyoochanok windshield, GENSSI LED headlight, SW-Motech tankbag, Shorai Lithium battery 2014 Ural Patrol |
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10-04-2016, 07:28 PM | #10 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Warshington
Posts: 928
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A few weeks back I was riding in Yosemite at the Horizons Unlimited rally and when I got back to camp it looked like oil grunge running down the RH side of the head , cylinder and maybe even out the water pump weep hole. I thought "great the valve covers came loose". After looking at it more closely I saw that the grunge was on the front forks also. I took it to a car wash and soaped it down and rinsed all the crud away and rode it to see where it was leaking from. Turns out I had ridden in a down pour up in Yosemite and the front tire flung road grunge up between the radiators and it landed on top of motor then ran over the side and made it look like a horrendous leak. I think a front fender rear flap would stop this. I'm mentioning this because I had a fright thinking my motor was falling apart and all it was was rain water from the road. YMMV rj
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10-04-2016, 11:17 PM | #11 |
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Berthoud, CO
Posts: 205
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To remove an O-ring from a shaft: grip the o-ring with your thumb on one side of the shaft and a finger on the other side. Squeeze the o-ring between your thumb and finger while you slide them off the shaft to the side, stretching the o-ring. Have something handy, such as a toothpick, to slide under the o-ring as it stands proud of the shaft. Tada!
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Dan CSC RX3 Cyclone, CSC TT250, Moto Guzzi V7 II, KLR650 |
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10-04-2016, 11:26 PM | #12 |
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 59
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AAAAnnd I'm spent
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10-05-2016, 05:13 PM | #13 |
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 51
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So to remove the water pump seal, you need to remove the four bolts of the water pump. The one with copper washer will drain your coolant so make sure you have something to catch the coolant.
I would take the time to remove the gasket and put it in a safe place - it's super easy to bend it. I just went ahead and got a new gasket, it's less than a $1. Remove the impeller, use a 12MM socket. Note that you will also have to use a 10MM allen wrench on the left side - similar step as if you were turning the bike to look for TDC. After you have the impeller off, I used a pick. No pretty way to do it, just stick something on there and remove it. Gerry recommended a flathead but don't bother, no way you are getting it out with a flathead. The screw idea is good and it might be worth it. Note that the diagram for parts on the CSC website is flat out wrong for the water pump seal. So glad that I went in person and ordered it to verify it was the right part. In the diagram it is Z13-117 but that's not the seal. Regardless of what pictures says, you want Z13-120. Hope this helps. My seal went bad around 13,000 miles. |
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10-05-2016, 11:46 PM | #14 |
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Arvada, CO
Posts: 1,004
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Great write-up, kumatae. Thanks!
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Red 5 standing by! 2015 CSC red RX3 with 19" front wheel, Shinko 804/805, skid plate, tall seat, 13T/45T sprockets, progressive shock, Winyoochanok windshield, GENSSI LED headlight, SW-Motech tankbag, Shorai Lithium battery 2014 Ural Patrol |
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