New Zongshen RX3 (ZS250GY-3) Dual Sport

[katflap]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

Katflap,

Are you filling the fuel tank with regular octane, or high octane fuel?

I started with using RON 98 octane but recently I have just used RON 95

Can't say that I noticed any real difference

[humanbeing]

Originally Posted by katflap

I started with using RON 98 ...

Any grade from western country is better than in CHiNA. Most available from there is RON93. Some clever guy just mixing 8-12% dimethoxymethane to white gas ...
~17:00
[youtube]KTUjL8yrFAE[/youtube]

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by humanbeing

Any grade from western country is better than in CHiNA. Most available from there is RON93. Some clever guy just mixing 8-12% dimethoxymethane to white gas ...

Meaning pure gasoline without additives, or naphtha?

[humanbeing]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Meaning pure gasoline without additives, or naphtha?

Different blender , different formula
RON89 + 1?% shit (naphtha + MTBE + aromatic hydrocarbons)
MTBE + aromatic hydrocarbons + naphtha + C5 Fraction... ~19:30
Secret additive ~22:00

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by humanbeing

Any grade from western country is better than in CHiNA...

Thanks for posting that interesting information, Humanbeing. Based upon all the information I have received, I am going to run regular octane fuel in my Zongshen RX3.

[SpudRider]

I wonder regarding the purpose of the spare electrical connector.

[detours]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

I wonder regarding the purpose of the spare electrical connector.

The same question came up yesterday on Facebook in the Cyclone RX-3 Zongshen Owners Group. The only response was maybe it's for an optional projector lamp.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by detours

The same question came up yesterday on Facebook in the Cyclone RX-3 Zongshen Owners Group. The only response was maybe it's for an optional projector lamp.

Thank you. Can you please provide a link for that Facebook page?

[NoVa Rider]

We all know that the RX-3 uses screw and lock-nut adjusters to set valve clearance. This is one of the features that makes the bike owner-serviceable, since you don't need a set of shims and you don't need to demount the cam shaft to adjust valve clearance.

Many of you are already well familiar with adjusting valves. But I thought I would share a few tricks I picked up adjusting valves on hundreds of air-cooled VWs, along with many motorcycles, over the years. If you know how to do it, no need to read further.

I have not yet received my RX-3, so these are general instructions. CSC's tutorial covers the specifics of removing body work, loosening the radiator mounts, removing the valve cover, and setting the engine to the correct position.

Once you have the valve cover off and are ready to measure, its always helpful to make sure the adjusters have some free play in them. You should be able to hold on to the adjuster or even just put you finger on it and wiggle it a bit. If you can't feel any freeplay, you may have the motor in the wrong position. If the motor is in the correct position, you should be able to wiggle all the adjusters.

Next is inserting the feeler gauge. Depends on how much room you have. You may have difficulty simply pushing the gauge between the adjuster and the valve stem; but often you can insert the blade of the gauge into the space beside the rocker, and then draw the blade back while gently pushing it into the gap. We'll see how much room we really have in the RX-3 to see if further tricks may be necessary.

But if you can't get the blade into the gap no matter what you do, the adjustment may be too tight. Try a thinner gauge just to be sure you are doing it correctly, and to measure what the adjuster is actually set at, just for grins.

So you have the correct gauge in place. If adjusted correctly, you should feel a drag while drawing it straight backwards from the gap. The gauge may tend to buckle if you try to push it further in, but if you can draw it back without having difficulty holding onto the gauge, you are OK. If you feel no drag, and you're sure the blade is in the gap, the setting is too loose and you need to adjust.

So if you have followed me this far, here are the real secrets. You would think that the adjustment is done by loosening the lock nut, perhaps loosening the adjustment screw a bit to get the guage in place, then turning the adjustment screw until you have the correct drag on the gauge, and retightening the lock nut. Well, not so fast.

Two things can happen when you try to tighten the lock nut. The first is that the nut can "drag" the adjuster with it as you tighten it, so you end up with a setting that's too tight. The second thing is a bit more subtle. When you tighten the lock nut, presuming the adjuster doesn't "drag" with the nut, the nut actually draws the adjuster up slightly against the threads as its tightened. This actually increases the gap a bit.

The solution? First, set the adjuster so its a bit tighter that you would like. So that you can just barely pull the gauge back. Then, put your wrench on the lock nut, and set your screwdriver in the adjuster slot. As you tighten the lock nut, apply slight "back pressure" on the adjuster. Not enough to turn the adjuster, just enough to keep it from being "dragged" by the lock nut. Then, since you started with setting a bit tighter that you wanted, as you tighten the nut, you should find the adjustment loosens just a bit.

At this point, DO NOT TO OVERTIGHTEN THE LOCK NUT. Particularly on a small nut/adjuster arrangement like the RX-3, it does not take a lot of torque to secure the lock nut. Overtorquing the nut will just distort the adjuster threads and make future adjustments more difficult if not impossible.

Forgive me for droning on. Perhaps this will be of help to some new RX-3 owners.

[CSCDude]

Originally Posted by NoVa Rider

We all know that the RX-3 uses screw and lock-nut adjusters to set valve clearance. This is one of the features that makes the bike owner-serviceable, since you don't need a set of shims and you don't need to demount the cam shaft to adjust valve clearance.

Many of you are already well familiar with adjusting valves. But I thought I would share a few tricks I picked up adjusting valves on hundreds of air-cooled VWs, along with many motorcycles, over the years. If you know how to do it, no need to read further.

I have not yet received my RX-3, so these are general instructions. CSC's tutorial covers the specifics of removing body work, loosening the radiator mounts, removing the valve cover, and setting the engine to the correct position.

Once you have the valve cover off and are ready to measure, its always helpful to make sure the adjusters have some free play in them. You should be able to hold on to the adjuster or even just put you finger on it and wiggle it a bit. If you can't feel any freeplay, you may have the motor in the wrong position. If the motor is in the correct position, you should be able to wiggle all the adjusters.

Next is inserting the feeler gauge. Depends on how much room you have. You may have difficulty simply pushing the gauge between the adjuster and the valve stem; but often you can insert the blade of the gauge into the space beside the rocker, and then draw the blade back while gently pushing it into the gap. We'll see how much room we really have in the RX-3 to see if further tricks may be necessary.

But if you can't get the blade into the gap no matter what you do, the adjustment may be too tight. Try a thinner gauge just to be sure you are doing it correctly, and to measure what the adjuster is actually set at, just for grins.

So you have the correct gauge in place. If adjusted correctly, you should feel a drag while drawing it straight backwards from the gap. The gauge may tend to buckle if you try to push it further in, but if you can draw it back without having difficulty holding onto the gauge, you are OK. If you feel no drag, and you're sure the blade is in the gap, the setting is too loose and you need to adjust.

So if you have followed me this far, here are the real secrets. You would think that the adjustment is done by loosening the lock nut, perhaps loosening the adjustment screw a bit to get the guage in place, then turning the adjustment screw until you have the correct drag on the gauge, and retightening the lock nut. Well, not so fast.

Two things can happen when you try to tighten the lock nut. The first is that the nut can "drag" the adjuster with it as you tighten it, so you end up with a setting that's too tight. The second thing is a bit more subtle. When you tighten the lock nut, presuming the adjuster doesn't "drag" with the nut, the nut actually draws the adjuster up slightly against the threads as its tightened. This actually increases the gap a bit.

The solution? First, set the adjuster so its a bit tighter that you would like. So that you can just barely pull the gauge back. Then, put your wrench on the lock nut, and set your screwdriver in the adjuster slot. As you tighten the lock nut, apply slight "back pressure" on the adjuster. Not enough to turn the adjuster, just enough to keep it from being "dragged" by the lock nut. Then, since you started with setting a bit tighter that you wanted, as you tighten the nut, you should find the adjustment loosens just a bit.

At this point, DO NOT TO OVERTIGHTEN THE LOCK NUT. Particularly on a small nut/adjuster arrangement like the RX-3, it does not take a lot of torque to secure the lock nut. Overtorquing the nut will just distort the adjuster threads and make future adjustments more difficult if not impossible.

Forgive me for droning on. Perhaps this will be of help to some new RX-3 owners.

That was the best explanation I've ever read on the nuances of getting a valve adjustment right. Well done.

[detours]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

Thank you. Can you please provide a link for that Facebook page?

Here's the link to the group. I can't figure out how to link to a specific post, but it's from 4/15
https://www.facebook.com/groups/412630818887109/

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by detours

Here's the link to the group. I can't figure out how to link to a specific post, but it's from 4/15
https://www.facebook.com/groups/412630818887109/

Thank you.

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by detours

Here's the link to the group. I can't figure out how to link to a specific post, but it's from 4/15
https://www.facebook.com/groups/412630818887109/

This might be enough reason to actually join Facebook.

That, and my favourite local craft brewery.

[katflap]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

I wonder regarding the purpose of the spare electrical connector.

I noticed on the wiring diagram a "Dump Switch" indicated. I wonder if this is a kill switch for when the bike goes over, as is fitted on other bikes.

My Rx3 hasn't got this switch fitted so could explain the spare connector.

Decided to remove the stickers front and back . Came off quite easily and wasn't to bad for left over gue !!

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by katflap

I noticed on the wiring diagram a "Dump Switch" indicated. I wonder if this is a kill switch for when the bike goes over, as is fitted on other bikes.

My Rx3 hasn't got this switch fitted so could explain the spare connector.

Decided to remove the stickers front and back . Came off quite easily and wasn't to bad for left over gue !!

Katflap, that looks really good without the decals.