07-02-2013, 09:17 PM | #1 |
Join Date: May 2010
Location: waterdown
Posts: 90
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No rear brakes on my beast.
I recently changed the hydraulic fluid in the rear brake on my beast. I did this the reverse method with a syringe. So I opened the reservoir and drain it. Then opened the bleeder and fead new fluid through the entire system until all air and old fluid was out. Closed the bleeder and now lost brake pressure? I don't think there is any air in the system and nothing is leaking but I cannot build up any pressure when pumping the brake pedal.i did all this after replacing the rear pads? I'm not sure if there's a way to check the master cylinder?
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modsz30 carb, 110 main,22.5 pilot,ngk race coil wire and plug dr8es-l, no rev cdi, monster muffler |
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07-03-2013, 10:22 AM | #2 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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It is common for the old Honda style calipers to behave that way. The solution is usually to unbolt the caliper and reposition it so the bleeder is at the top. In the stock setup, the bleeder isn't always the highest point of the caliper, so a little bit of air will be trapped above the bleeder.
You could remove the caliper completely and bench-bleed it, but you'll need to place something between the pads to simulate the rotor thickness.
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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07-03-2013, 05:15 PM | #3 |
Join Date: May 2010
Location: waterdown
Posts: 90
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Yeah my bleeder is at the bottom. I'll try that. Thanks
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modsz30 carb, 110 main,22.5 pilot,ngk race coil wire and plug dr8es-l, no rev cdi, monster muffler |
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07-05-2013, 08:31 PM | #4 |
Join Date: May 2010
Location: waterdown
Posts: 90
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Ok, so I like removing the caliper to bleed ( thanks w&g) but I still can't build up any pressure. It's so dead it think if the spring was removed the pedal would fall. I was thinking that maybe the pistons are stuck in but I know the brakes have never been blead in 5 years so maybe it's a long process? I'll keep trying but I'm worried my master cylinder is faulty?
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modsz30 carb, 110 main,22.5 pilot,ngk race coil wire and plug dr8es-l, no rev cdi, monster muffler |
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07-05-2013, 09:11 PM | #5 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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It could be. Have you tried just using gravity? If you remove the brake assembly, hang the master (with the reservoir above it) and clamp the caliper to something so the bleeder is pointing up, you should be able to just let it flow with gravity. Keep the reservoir full, and the fluid should do it's thing.
Failing that, do you have access to a vacuum bleeder? That would allow you to pull fluid through the caliper. Failing that, new rear brakes are cheap as chips.
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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07-07-2013, 11:08 AM | #6 |
Join Date: May 2010
Location: waterdown
Posts: 90
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I'll give it a shot. I have also heard the Chinese brake fluid can sometimes become like the Jell-O after years of not being changed. If it has gummed up my master cylinder I may not be able to get pressure until I open it up and get the old stuff out. Not sure what it says about my driving but I rarely use the rear brake anyways
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modsz30 carb, 110 main,22.5 pilot,ngk race coil wire and plug dr8es-l, no rev cdi, monster muffler |
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07-07-2013, 04:14 PM | #7 |
Join Date: May 2009
Location: SASKATOON
Posts: 1,161
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Bleeding
To bleed the system .... remove the calipher... push the pads all the way into the calipher housing... wedge something in there to hild them apart.. this will push out all the air... ( you may have to open the bleed screw to release air or fliud) fill the reservoir almost all the way..... cover up the atv plastic incase you spill some.... you can loosen the bleed screw... if you do not see fluid... you can do 2 things... remove the brake hose at the hand lever reservoir... with the bleed screw open... fill the hose up to make it easier to hand bleed it... this will fill the hose and the air in the hose will go out the bleed screw... once you have fluid there.. re install hose to hand lever.. close screw... and then SLOWLY move the hand lever just alittle... like feathering the lever.... you will see a few bubbles coming out... do this until you feel the resistance and the pressure to do so get harder.... Now re-install the calipher.. and you are done...... the other way is to just keep feathering the hand lever and you have to see small bubbles.... these are a self bleeding setup.... just take small strokes,, and patience..
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07-15-2013, 09:50 PM | #8 |
Join Date: May 2010
Location: waterdown
Posts: 90
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It sure does take patience, I've tried bleeding them a few ways ( which I believe worked) but I just can't build up pressure. I now taken the break pads off and tried to pull the pistons back out which was impossible. Pumping the foot pedal rapidly I noticed the pistons moving in and out 1/16" or so. Then one of them came out a little farther. Still no pressure but I think I'm making progress?
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modsz30 carb, 110 main,22.5 pilot,ngk race coil wire and plug dr8es-l, no rev cdi, monster muffler |
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07-18-2013, 12:27 AM | #9 |
Join Date: May 2009
Location: SASKATOON
Posts: 1,161
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yes . as I said.. push the shoes into the caliphers.. you can release the bleeder when you do this to try to help release the air... but put a wedge in there to hold them back.. and then you only need a little bit of fluid to move them. this will let you have more of a full stroke for bleeding.. once you do it you will be a master
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Tags |
beast, brakes, no pressure |
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