atv-21 stator wiring

GreenChrome · 04-19-2009, 05:40 PM

I need to know wich wires go to wich wires in the harness since they where loose and pulled out. It has 5 seperate wires. The green wire I know goes to the green. The harness wires are red, white, blue and yellow. The stator wires are yellow, white, black with red tracer and blue with white tracer.
It's a Roketa atv-21

ATV AC CDI on Amazon: https://amzn.to/3S4tOg4

LynnEdwards · 04-19-2009, 06:33 PM

For some reason finding wiring diagrams on these small quads is next to impossible.

Stator wires:

1) The Black/Red wire is the high voltage ignition power output. It goes to the CDI as will be shown below.
2) The Blue/White wire is the Timing/Trigger wire which also goes to the CDI as shown below.
3) The Yel and White wires go to the Rectifier/Regulator.
4) You've already figured out that the green wires are ground.

Is this a picture of your CDI?

If this picture matches your CDI then find color of the wire on the the AC Ignition power pin. There should be the same color wire in your wiring harness at the stator. Plug that into the Red/Blk wire from the stator.

Find the color of the wire connected to the CDI Timing/Trigger pin. There should be the same color wire in the harness at the stator. Plug that into the Blue/White wire from the stator.

Hopefully that should only leave yellow and white wires left which I would match up to each other.

If the quad starts then the CDI wires are correct. To test the rectifier/reguator start the quad up, rev the engine a little bit and measure the battery voltage right on the battery terminals. It should be 13.5 to 14.5 volts DC with headlights off.

phil · 04-19-2009, 09:11 PM

i have one of these at the shop roketa makes several changes and still has the same model,diffrent suppliers i suppose, if you want i can take a look you can use the info at the bottom to contact me email or phone will be fine if you still need information

GreenChrome · 04-19-2009, 11:24 PM

I belive the stator went out. When pluging in the yellow wire sparks flew. Testing with an ohm meter the white and yellow wire had hardly any resisent at all like they were grounded and the black/red wire is open and the blue/white wire has resistance.
Before the wires came out it did not have any power or throttle responce, giving it choke was the only way to give it full throttle, but as said it had no power and the wheals would not spin. It would run at ilde and checking the voltage at the battery I was only getting around 12 volts.
Do you think the stator was on the way out and that is why I can't plug the wires back with out sparking and cause the loss of power when it would only idle?
I also checked the compression by putting my thumb over the spark plug hole since i didn't have a gauge and I couldn't hold it on there, so there's compression.

phil · 04-20-2009, 12:07 AM

you may be able to match yours with something on here http://www.chinariders.net/modules.p...ghlight=#61989 it should give you a answers you need yours will be close to something listed most likely the apollo 70

LynnEdwards · 04-20-2009, 01:49 AM

You have multiple problems. First things first:

The quad will run without the yellow or white battery charge wires hooked up. It will not run without the CDI power and trigger wires hooked up and working. That's where I would start troubleshooting. Disconnect the battery charge stator wires and see if you can get it started.

The Blk/red wire (ignition power) being open is a show stopper. It should read around 500 ohms or so (or 0.5 KiloOhms). Are you sure you has the meter on a high enough scale?

The trigger winding should be 150 ohms or so to ground.

Can you get the quad to start? If not, does it at least produce spark?

The Yellow and White wires (battery charge stuff) are low voltage / high current windings. Their resistance will be very low (1 ohm or so) but they shouldn't be zero. Be careful about the accuracy of your meter. Often cheap and/or uncalibrated meters read very wrong at low resistances.

The yellow wire should not spark when hooked up. The diode(s) in the rectifier/regulator are supposed to keep current from the battery from going backwards through the stator charge winding. Either your wiring has many errors in it, or your regulator is bad.

To check the charging system you really need to measure the voltage at a faster than idle engine speed. Get the engine running over the normal RPM range first, then come back to any charging problems.

GreenChrome · 04-20-2009, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LynnEdwards

You have multiple problems. First things first:

The quad will run without the yellow or white battery charge wires hooked up. It will not run without the CDI power and trigger wires hooked up and working. That's where I would start troubleshooting. Disconnect the battery charge stator wires and see if you can get it started.

1 [ That is what I was going to do.]

The Blk/red wire (ignition power) being open is a show stopper. It should read around 500 ohms or so (or 0.5 KiloOhms). Are you sure you has the meter on a high enough scale?

2 [ Nope it only has 200 ohms ,have another one that has 2000 ohms will retest]

The trigger winding should be 150 ohms or so to ground.

3 [ Got 124 will test with other meter again.]

Can you get the quad to start? If not, does it at least produce spark?

4 [ I will test later today.]

The Yellow and White wires (battery charge stuff) are low voltage / high current windings. Their resistance will be very low (1 ohm or so) but they shouldn't be zero. Be careful about the accuracy of your meter. Often cheap and/or uncalibrated meters read very wrong at low resistances.

5 [ Got less than 1 will retest with other meter.]

The yellow wire should not spark when hooked up. The diode(s) in the rectifier/regulator are supposed to keep current from the battery from going backwards through the stator charge winding. Either your wiring has many errors in it, or your regulator is bad.

6 [ I will check the voltage at the yellow wire.]

To check the charging system you really need to measure the voltage at a faster than idle engine speed. Get the engine running over the normal RPM range first, then come back to any charging problems.

LynnEdwards · 04-20-2009, 12:27 PM

The Ignition Power winding and Timing/Trigger resistances (200 ohms and 124 ohms) sound like they are in the realm of possibly being correct. It varies some from stator design to stator design. All three windings in the stator (the other being the battery charge winding) are just coils of wire. The resistance of each winding is set by the total length of wire used to make the coil and the gauge of wire used.

The two things that can go wrong with the stator windings are:
1) A wire breaks (and the winding becomes open)
2) A wire shorts to another wire (or to ground)

You've eliminated possibility #1 already. Shorts in any of the stator windings will drastically affect the output voltage of that winding. The best way to test the stator for shorts is to measure the stator output voltages while cranking. To do this the meter must be set to AC volts. Also, (important) the ignition power winding (blk/red) must be disconnected from the CDI when making these measurements or the measured results are meaningless.

The ignition power winding should read 80 volts AC or so to engine ground while cranking. The ignition timing/trigger line should read 0.3 volts AC to engine ground. The latter voltage is actually a complicated waveform what meters don't measure well, so it may vary a bit from meter to meter, but you should measure something other than zero volts.

If the quad starts you don't need to measure the above voltages since that proves they are working.

Again I'm ignoring the battery charging problems until the quad is running. If your battery gets low you can always jump it to your car battery provided you're absolutely sure to get the polarity right, and you're absolutely sure that all the fuse circuitry in the quad is intact and hasn't been bypassed. (Lets not start a fire.)

GreenChrome · 04-20-2009, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LynnEdwards

The Ignition Power winding and Timing/Trigger resistances (200 ohms and 124 ohms) sound like they are in the realm of possibly being correct.

I meant the meter only had and was on the 200 scale. Still need to test it using the right scale and another meter that has 2000 ohms.

04-19-2009, 09:11 PM	#3
phil Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: wise va Posts: 636	i have one of these at the shop roketa makes several changes and still has the same model,diffrent suppliers i suppose, if you want i can take a look you can use the info at the bottom to contact me email or phone will be fine if you still need information __________________ halls auto l coolster, modcycles, yanmar & zongshen, dealer fired roketa,lifan and jet moto and apollo quit me who's next
	0

04-20-2009, 12:07 AM	#5
phil Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: wise va Posts: 636	you may be able to match yours with something on here http://www.chinariders.net/modules.p...ghlight=#61989 it should give you a answers you need yours will be close to something listed most likely the apollo 70 __________________ halls auto l coolster, modcycles, yanmar & zongshen, dealer fired roketa,lifan and jet moto and apollo quit me who's next
	0

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04-19-2009, 05:40 PM	#1
GreenChrome Join Date: Apr 2009 Posts: 4	atv-21 stator wiring I need to know wich wires go to wich wires in the harness since they where loose and pulled out. It has 5 seperate wires. The green wire I know goes to the green. The harness wires are red, white, blue and yellow. The stator wires are yellow, white, black with red tracer and blue with white tracer. It's a Roketa atv-21 ATV AC CDI on Amazon: https://amzn.to/3S4tOg4
	0

04-19-2009, 06:33 PM	#2
LynnEdwards Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Tracy, California Posts: 83	For some reason finding wiring diagrams on these small quads is next to impossible. Stator wires: 1) The Black/Red wire is the high voltage ignition power output. It goes to the CDI as will be shown below. 2) The Blue/White wire is the Timing/Trigger wire which also goes to the CDI as shown below. 3) The Yel and White wires go to the Rectifier/Regulator. 4) You've already figured out that the green wires are ground. Is this a picture of your CDI? If this picture matches your CDI then find color of the wire on the the AC Ignition power pin. There should be the same color wire in your wiring harness at the stator. Plug that into the Red/Blk wire from the stator. Find the color of the wire connected to the CDI Timing/Trigger pin. There should be the same color wire in the harness at the stator. Plug that into the Blue/White wire from the stator. Hopefully that should only leave yellow and white wires left which I would match up to each other. If the quad starts then the CDI wires are correct. To test the rectifier/reguator start the quad up, rev the engine a little bit and measure the battery voltage right on the battery terminals. It should be 13.5 to 14.5 volts DC with headlights off.
	0

04-19-2009, 11:24 PM	#4
GreenChrome Join Date: Apr 2009 Posts: 4	I belive the stator went out. When pluging in the yellow wire sparks flew. Testing with an ohm meter the white and yellow wire had hardly any resisent at all like they were grounded and the black/red wire is open and the blue/white wire has resistance. Before the wires came out it did not have any power or throttle responce, giving it choke was the only way to give it full throttle, but as said it had no power and the wheals would not spin. It would run at ilde and checking the voltage at the battery I was only getting around 12 volts. Do you think the stator was on the way out and that is why I can't plug the wires back with out sparking and cause the loss of power when it would only idle? I also checked the compression by putting my thumb over the spark plug hole since i didn't have a gauge and I couldn't hold it on there, so there's compression.
	0

04-20-2009, 01:49 AM	#6
LynnEdwards Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Tracy, California Posts: 83	You have multiple problems. First things first: The quad will run without the yellow or white battery charge wires hooked up. It will not run without the CDI power and trigger wires hooked up and working. That's where I would start troubleshooting. Disconnect the battery charge stator wires and see if you can get it started. The Blk/red wire (ignition power) being open is a show stopper. It should read around 500 ohms or so (or 0.5 KiloOhms). Are you sure you has the meter on a high enough scale? The trigger winding should be 150 ohms or so to ground. Can you get the quad to start? If not, does it at least produce spark? The Yellow and White wires (battery charge stuff) are low voltage / high current windings. Their resistance will be very low (1 ohm or so) but they shouldn't be zero. Be careful about the accuracy of your meter. Often cheap and/or uncalibrated meters read very wrong at low resistances. The yellow wire should not spark when hooked up. The diode(s) in the rectifier/regulator are supposed to keep current from the battery from going backwards through the stator charge winding. Either your wiring has many errors in it, or your regulator is bad. To check the charging system you really need to measure the voltage at a faster than idle engine speed. Get the engine running over the normal RPM range first, then come back to any charging problems.
	0

04-20-2009, 12:27 PM	#8
LynnEdwards Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Tracy, California Posts: 83	The Ignition Power winding and Timing/Trigger resistances (200 ohms and 124 ohms) sound like they are in the realm of possibly being correct. It varies some from stator design to stator design. All three windings in the stator (the other being the battery charge winding) are just coils of wire. The resistance of each winding is set by the total length of wire used to make the coil and the gauge of wire used. The two things that can go wrong with the stator windings are: 1) A wire breaks (and the winding becomes open) 2) A wire shorts to another wire (or to ground) You've eliminated possibility #1 already. Shorts in any of the stator windings will drastically affect the output voltage of that winding. The best way to test the stator for shorts is to measure the stator output voltages while cranking. To do this the meter must be set to AC volts. Also, (important) the ignition power winding (blk/red) must be disconnected from the CDI when making these measurements or the measured results are meaningless. The ignition power winding should read 80 volts AC or so to engine ground while cranking. The ignition timing/trigger line should read 0.3 volts AC to engine ground. The latter voltage is actually a complicated waveform what meters don't measure well, so it may vary a bit from meter to meter, but you should measure something other than zero volts. If the quad starts you don't need to measure the above voltages since that proves they are working. Again I'm ignoring the battery charging problems until the quad is running. If your battery gets low you can always jump it to your car battery provided you're absolutely sure to get the polarity right, and you're absolutely sure that all the fuse circuitry in the quad is intact and hasn't been bypassed. (Lets not start a fire.)
	0